seam finishes for silk satin & silk lining

Have a question or want to show off your project? Post it! No Registration Necessary.  Now with pictures!

Threaded View
What are good seam finishes for silk satin?  I have a serger, but it
always seems to leave hard edges on fine fabrics and I'm not always
pleased with the overall look of serged seams.  I would also appreciate
any advice on seam finishing the China silk lining!

thanks

lisa


Re: seam finishes for silk satin & silk lining

Quoted text here. Click to load it

My first choice, especially for seams *inside* a lined area, is pinked
edges.  However, I *cut all pieces out* using pinking shears, so this
is not an additional step for me.

Second, would be to hand-overcast...time consuming, but very couture.

Third, where possible, I'd make French seams.

Fourth, ir ravelling is a real issue, would be to three-thread serge
or zig-zag the edges.

Fifth, just straight stitch 1/8" inside the edge of the fabric along
each cut edge.

http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/aa011398.htm

There is also what's called a'Hong Kong" finish:

http://www.diynet.com/diy/na_sewing/article/0,2025,DIY_14144_2276784,00.html

HTH,

Beverly




Re: seam finishes for silk satin & silk lining

Quoted text here. Click to load it

I'm with Beverly on pinking the satin since that is less likely to leave
a ridge on the outside when pressed.  If it were me, I'd cut the China
silk so I could french the seams if it was sheer.  If not, I'd either
zig zag & trim them or pink.

--
I fear me you but warm the starved snake,
Who, cherished in your breasts, will sting your hearts. (Henry VI, Shakespeare)

Re: seam finishes for silk satin & silk lining
karlisa wrote:
Quoted text here. Click to load it


Beverly & Phae have covered most of it.  I'd only add that I HATE
cutting out with pinking sheer, and never do it!  :)

I'd only bother to finish the seams if they were exposed: where
something if fully lined, like a jacket, I wouldn't bother.  On dresses
and skirts, you really only need to finish the skirt sections below the zip.

I often use a 2 thread serged edge on firmer silks, and serge seams
together on finer ones.  On sheers I use a rolled seam - like a rolled
hem, but longer stitches so it isn't as stiff.

On very ravelly silks, cut your seam allowances a bit wider, especially
in high wear or exposed areas.

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: seam finishes for silk satin & silk lining

Quoted text here. Click to load it

You got that right.  My hands always ache after the rare occasion when I
pink anything but I was attributing that to the old age of my pinking
shears.  :)

I recently bought a new pair of "featherweight" Ginghers.  They are
lousy at making little snips--- you know, with the last cm tip of the
scissors.  For that I use my regular Ginghers.  But otherwise, I really
like them.  They are so light and easy on the hands.  OTOH, I cut out
almost all my patterns with rotary cutters these days.

Phae

--
I fear me you but warm the starved snake,
Who, cherished in your breasts, will sting your hearts. (Henry VI, Shakespeare)

Re: seam finishes for silk satin & silk lining

Quoted text here. Click to load it

All my silk garments have flat-felled seams.  

I do the top-stitching by hand, because it's hard to find silk thread
that matches well enough, and if I did find any, I wouldn't trust it
to continue matching after some of the dye washed out, so I sew the
fell down with ravelings.  

I've had some success with using #100 silk for topstitching wool
(haven't made a silk garment since obtaining it), but it's very hard
to get it to run through the machine properly -- paradoxically, it
seems to encounter *more* friction in the tension disks than thicker
thread -- and though the thread doesn't show, it pulls the wool down
into a very visible crease.  

Joy Beeson
--
http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/ -- needlework
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.

Site Timeline