Serger_Viking 936

Hi,

Does anyone have this serger. How happy are you with it. I read on another list that you should only use size #90 needles. Is this true? If so, what about thin or sheer fabrics?

Thanks, Carol Van to reply remove NOT

Reply to
Carol Van
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I've got the 910 and a friend has the 936. In neither of them does the manual say use 90's for anything - but they DO come supplied with 80's! :) I use 70's and 60's for very fine fabrics, 90's with thicker fabrics and thicker threads, jersey/knit/ball points for knitted fabric, just as I would with the ordinary machine.

I've had mine for 5 years and never had a problem using different sized needles with it. Pop over to my web site (URL below) and see some of the things I have done.

Reply to
Kate Dicey

Thanks Kate,

Does the 910 do the cover stitch? How happy are you with the serger?

Carol Van snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net

Reply to
Carol Van

I have this serger and love it.

You are supposed to use size 90 needles when doing the cover stitch because the cover stitch exerts a LOT of tension on the needle and a thinner needle can't take the strain.

Otherwise I just use the same size/type needle I would if I were sewing the particular fabric on a sewing machine.

--Welmoed

Reply to
Welmoed Sisson

No, it doesn't do the cover stitch, but I get results that are almost as good as a commercial cover stitch using the double needle on the Lily. It takes a bit of practice to get that good with the cover stitch on any new machine. I'm very happy with the 910, and wouldn't trade it for anything. To me the 5 threads and cover stitch of the 936 are not worth the effort and expense of trading up at the moment, though that's probably the one I'd got for if I did.

I find it very reliable too. In 5 years, it's only had two problems: one was when the needles in the stitch plate worked loose, and snapped off when I pushed them back - replaced as guarantee work; the other was that a little spring wore and didn't snap the looper over properly for threading - cost £12 for replacement. This latter one made threading a tad awkward but didn't affect stitch quality. Considering the amount I have done on the machine, some of the things I make it cope with (like all that puffy poly batting in the Fat Suit costume, and chopping through a pin ot two!), I think it has done remarkably well. It's been serviced ONCE in all that time! ALL other problems I've had with the machine have been user induced, caused by miss threading, using cheap and nasty thread, wrong tension, manky fabric... You get the picture? ;)

Like all complex new machinery, it takes time to learn to use properly. I had a three thread Toyota before this one, and thought i knew what I was doing... HA! New machine - new skills required! As an experienced serger user, it took me a few days to get used to it's little ways, but of all the different sergers I've used and tried, to ME this was the best I could buy at the time. It isn't perfect, but it's damned good!

Kate's perfect serger would have these features:

The strength and reliability of the 910 The thread/stitch options of the Evolve (that's the 8 thread machine) The bend it out of the way foot of the Bernina (LIKE that little idea!) The front would open up like the Frister & Rossmann for cleaning! (That's just so neat!) Would do the wiggly rolled hems of the new Babylock Imagine Wave

Of all these, the first is the most important, but the last is the one I REALLY want! Think what a great finish it would make on wedding stuff!

Reply to
Kate Dicey

Nope, only the HV 936 does cover stitch. I'm very happy with my 910 so far

- please keep in mind that its my first ever serger and I've only tackled easy wovens so far!

If you are au fait with sergers and setting up tensions etc., you could save money and buy the 905. The 910 is identical but gives you the flashy electronic guide screen plus a memory to save your own settings in, but that is all.

HTH,

Sarah

Reply to
Sarah Dale

I know in another post when Kate was singing praises about her 910 I heartily agreed. Well, I don't have the 910, I have the 905, the one without the onboard computer set up. I test drove both of those and decided for the money I would be quite happy with the 905. I just keep a little note book with my test runs and settings for different fabrics, works great. I think I've had it for about 5 years. I'm sure I don't use my serger as much as Kate does but I sew a lot and much more than anyone else I know personally and haven't had it in the shop yet, just keeps humming away. I'm diligent about keeping it cleaned and oiled. I have one of those iddy biddy vacuum hoses and attachment that I got at Nancy's Notions. It's always hooked up and sitting next to my machines, I suck them out at the end of each sewing day. I did take the basic dealer intro lessons when I got it. I'm taking a four day, 8 hours each day, serger class after the first of the year. Can hardly wait!

Val

Reply to
Valkyrie

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could you please share with us how you do this?

Tatiana

Reply to
Tatiana Sannikova

It's a little labour intensive compared with a comercial cover stitch, but here goes...

Mark you hem and turn it up. Pin then baste it along the line where you want the stitching to show on the outside of the garment. TRIM the fabric about 1/4" above this line, so there is almost no hem above the basting.

Put a wide double needle into the machine - 6mm gap is good. Thread both needles and bobbin with the thread you want to use. Do a test bit and adjust the tension so that the bobbin thread forms a neat zigzag on the back of the fabric.

Set up your free arm for narrow openings like trouser hems, and sew from the RIGHT side of the garment, following the basting line. Position the basting stitches close to the RIGHT needle, and you should find that the left needle only just misses the cut edge on the inside, and the zigzaging bobbin thread covers it neatly. You may find that you have to loosen off the bobbin tension quite a bit to prevent the thread on the inside pulling too tight and forming a ridge. Starch and washaway stabilizers can also help.

I tend to use this mostly on knits, and use the blind hem on wovens.

Reply to
Kate Dicey

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