Seems that some collared shirts I have tend to slide towards the back when I have them on. I am always pulling them forward and I cant figure out where the problem lies when constructing them. LOL, I will admit, I am quite 'busty' and this is prob. the underlying cause :)
Cindy
My guess is that you either need more room in the front, so fabric is shifting up, or, more likely, more room across the shoulder blades.
Kay
I don't know anything about 'busty' gals, having never been larger than a
44C while I was very overweight for a time. But I do know my blouses, dresses, tops always rode to the back, until I took a hint from someone on a Sewing Show. For short-waisted gals like I am, sometimes it is easy to alter them by adding a certain length to the back shoulder seam and subtracting the same amount of the front shoulder. Now, all patterns get this alteration immediately before I do any other. All I need is 1-inch added to the back shoulder and 1-inch subtracted from the front. This started about 20-years ago, when I began losing height, going to a former 5'8'' to a 5'6" in those 20-odd years. HTH, Emily
It's because you, like many mature people, have forward shoulders and/or a rounded upper back so there isn't enough fabric there. It tries to "borrow" fabric from the front, causing the riding back and the feeling that your shirt collar is trying to strangle you. You need extra depth at CB in the shoulder-to-neck area, but not in the armholes.
There's a description of a pattern alteration here:
BTW, the worst pattern I've ever known for this is a Folkwear one for a shirt that's basically rectangles. If you look at the photo that goes with Folkwear 102, the French Cheesemaker's Smock, you can see the front edges of the collar pulling up and back. Guess we've learned something about pattern cutting since those days.
Sally H
Wow - great link. Thanks!
Angela
I only buy Butterick, for me they fit the best. (small busted, small shoulders)
-Charlotte
This may work. The center back length is maybe to short, so raise the back neck line of the shirt 3/4" (more to 1"or less to 1/2"), sleeve ends stay the same height. Now draw the new shoulder line. This is for "long backs" (stooped). This doesn't change the armscye unless it pushes it out a bit. And the front needs to be altered the same, except the neck line is lowered and the armscye maybe drawn in.
"Short backs" (overly erect) would be the reverse of long backs.
I suppose sometimes there is a need to shorten the armscye, either back or front, which changes the sleeve a bit.
Sometimes a long back person gets a heavy stomach and to counter the forward weight in front they arch there back and, therefore, become a short back. Short back = back is concave and front convex. Long back = back is convex and front is concave. Like a bowl, the inside (concave) measurement is always shorter than the outside (convex).
John
I find that when I am not paying attention I carry my head a bit forward and allow my shoulders to round forward, but not all my shirts pull toward the back so I'm not sure what is wrong.
It seems to be running through the back of my mind that this problem can be solved by rotating the sleeve a bit in the armscye? can't quote the book I might have gotten that from, but it's worth a shot.
if I get another shirt pulling to the back I'll try it. gotta go try on all my shirts now. LOL Kitty
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