I would like to make a skirt using a soft draping non-stretch (polyster) fabric. It needs to be a loosish fit over the hips and then flow. Should I use a bias cut (I can do this) or use a pattern with a basque? I want to use tops over the skirt but I have the middle-age "handles" if you know what I mean. I am not obese or really fat by any means (60kg), but the weight is now distriubted in totally the wrong places!
I have used both in the past, without great success. They are okay but I am looking for something better.
I would suggest you cutting the skirt on the bias. If what you are saying about middle-age "handles" aka "love handles", methinks this would be the best technique. The skirt would fit a little loosish over the hip area but not so loose that wrinkles would show under the tops you wear and not so tight that it would bind, then it would drape down naturally.
To make a bias cut skirt if your pattern doesn't have a bias grainline, draw a grainline that intersects the grainline that runs up and down on your skirt pattern. Then through the middle of this intersection you draw another line, sort of like cutting a pie. (Remember your algebra class?) This will be your bias line.
I found this technique > I would like to make a skirt using a soft draping non-stretch
Thank you for your suggestion. I have a bias skirt pattern that I have used before, BUT I had problems with sewing in the side seams. I have now acquired a good sewing tips book by Singer that illustrates bias techniques - mainly cutting out and securing the pattern pieces effectively on the fabric.
I w>I would suggest you cutting the skirt on the bias. If what
Basting first is a very good idea, and hanging, too. I often cut out the pattern pieces (with excess all round) and hang them for 48 hours before sewing a stitch. I saw another tip, which is to weight the pieces to get ALL the excess stretch out - you can use the kind of weights you use on tablecloths. The polyester is going to stretch a lot, I would've thought. I'd guess you'd need tension slightly loose, and make sure you've got a new, very sharp, needle. You might want tissue under and/or between the layers to prevent any slipping, or starch the fabric heavily before sewing.
I sew bias with a very slight zigzag - about 0.6mm, though others prefer a technique where you stretch the fabric slightly as you sew. That way, you don't get puckers. I also tend to use French seams, and in that case you really need to baste anyway or you can get tufty bits sticking out the wrong side.
There was a good article called Bias 101 on the Threads site ages ago
formatting link
If you can't find it, I downloaded it and am happy to send it to you.
I found the Threads site on bias sewing tips and thank you for that. I have now printed it out.
My fabric was (unfortunately) a pure polyester. Never mind, it is cut out now and hopefully will be okay. I see the recommendation is to cut one and a half inches larger along the straight lines of a bias pattern. Is this so that drag (or whatever it is called) won't distort the hang of the garment?
I haven't hand-based the seams on my skirt. The front and back are the same. I shall simply pin at 1 inch intervals along a hanger and let the cut out pieces do their thing for 48 hours.
I shall have a go sometime in a recommended fabric - like cotton or charmeuse. I have some very nice printed voile that could be a goer also - it was bought at a good sale price for experimentation.
InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.