Sleeve fitting problem

Is the fabric on grain or torqued?

Right now, my best guess is that the weight of the fabric is stretching the sleeve cap, allowing the droopy effect under the arm. What happens if you take some length out of the upper portion of the lengthwise seam of the sleeve? Any help?

Did you compare the sleeve as cut to the pattern? Did you cut the fabric on paper?

The only time I've seen this wrinkle pattern from an otherwise good sleeve pattern was the time I was making a chiffon jacket and didn't realize my mom had decided to tidy up for me and put the cut sleeves over the back of a chair. The sleeves stretched from their own weight. :-(

Nor for me...

te:

I will check these suggestions out this afternoon and get my husband to snap some more pictures. Thank you. Cheryl

Here are three possibilities I can think of:

1) Sleeve stretched lengthwise while the sleeve was hanging or was sewn. If the fabric is stretchier and heavier than you have used before, it could be stretching from its own weight, if so, staying the seam with lightweight elastic might help. 2) Fabric may have been partially stretched while being cut, resulting in a shorter sleeve cap. 3) Left sleeve in right armhole?

Seeing more pictures will help.

--Betsy

In the picture, it looks as though the sleeve cap is too short. However, as you have used this pattern successfully before, that cannot be the case. Therefore, it must be that the upper portion of the sleeve cap has stretched somehow. (4-way stretch fabric can be a bear sometimes). So I would suggest you unpick the entire sleeve seam and pin it back in, stretching the lower portion slightly to put more room in the upper cap. It may take two attempts at pinning, followed by hand basting, to get it right, but should work eventually.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

I agree with Kay that the "hang" of fabric can cause wrinkling, or can actually minimize it depending on the assembly sequence, especially knits and 4-way stretch most of all.

But I disagree with her terminology in the question: "Is the fabric on grain or torqued?"

Actually, the term "torque" is used to describe the defect itself in the sleeve on the finished garment. The question she meant to ask is: "Is the fabric cut long-grain, cross-grain, or bias-grain?"

The answer is probably: "cut on the bias-grain". If the pattern requires it to be cut that way, allowing the sleeve it to hang for a day or so before attaching it can help, for the same reason bias-cut knits should hang before hemming to minimize these problems, as Kay observed in her last statement. JPBill

Actually, I cut the sleeve, as well as bodice, on the crosswise grain. I treated this like a border print, with the design running around, rather than up and down. I am told that with a 4-way stretch, it is appropriate to cut on the crosswise grain. Do you agree? Cheryl

Ah!!! Mystery may be solved. All of the 4 way stretch I've ever worked with has more stretch on the cross grain. That allows it to stretch more around the body since stretch garments have little to no ease. But you don't want them to stretch lengthwise or you end up with problems like your sleeve.

It would be my guess that that little extra cross grain stretch is biting you on the sleeve. I would recut and replace the sleeve if I had enough fabric.

Sharon

Recut how? On the crossgrain, again, or on the lengthwise grain? If I cut on the lengthwise, I will lose the pattern effect I was looking for. Of course, that may be the only way to save the blouse??? Some more pictures at this link

Cheryl

Actually, I meant, was the fabric on grain, or (if a woven), are the warp and weft 90 degrees to each other, or have they been torqued (twisted) during so they are no longer at 90 degrees? You can also see torqued knits, particularly those knitted on circular machines. If you examine the wales on some knits, the wales are not parallel to the "selvages". Which can be a problem when cutting if you don't notice it.

Sleeves are traditionally cut on the long grain for economy and good hang; on the cross grain for decorative purposes, though they'll often not hang very well, and on the bias for close-fit or specific design. They will often hang funny on the bias unless the sleeve is split and you use opposing bias.

The sleeve can also be torqued by mis-inserting the sleeve in the armscye, but the midline of the sleeve doesn't look like that's true in this instance.

Kay

I'm with Sharon on this, having now learned it's a 4-way stretch... recutting is probably the way out.

Kay

Cheryl I love the color and can see why you would want to cut it out to take advantage of the pattern.

If you can handle the extra weight, you might be able to get away with stabilizing the whole thing with very lightweight knit interfacing. I'm not sure that the effort involved in ripping it apart is worth it. I would test on scraps first to see if it is possible to fuse without damaging the fabric and to end up with the right stretch.

--Betsy

This might be what I have to do if I want to keep the design running in this direction. Taking the sleeve out is no problem as it is machine basted in and I have not put the other sleeve in yet. Maybe I will try interfacing the other sleeve and see what happens. Thank you. Cheryl

The fabric seems to be on grain. I have inserted the correct sleeve to the armscye. I was very careful when inserting to not stretch the fabric. I may try what Betsy suggested and line the sleeve to give it stability. Thank you for your suggestions. Cheryl

I hope that works for you. Yes, I meant recut it ongrain rather than crossgrain. I hope you can save this blouse. But it's all in what you learn from each project. Sometimes, you can get away with cutting things crossgrain. But now you know what can happen with 4 way stretch if you do.

Sharon