Sponging Wool?

Sponging is the partial shrinking of wool by application of moisture in preparation for sewing your garment. Purchased woolen material of quality will tell if the wool has been so treated and the degree. When in doubt, you can sponge it yourself.

I use the procedure outlined in Margolis' Complete Book of Tailoring, (Doubleday 1964, 1978 rev.) which is as follows:

1. Straighten the grain.

1. Fold material inhalf lengthwise, with the right sides together. Pin or baste together both straightened edges and both selvages.

2. Make a sponging cloth at least 40 in. wide to accommodate te width of the folded fabric and nong enouth to cover it all. Old sheets willdo, or a length of washable cotton bought just for the purpose. (Remove any sizing and lint if new material)

4.Wet 1/3 of the sponging cloth. Starting at the wet end, roll the entire length. Let it rest until the cloth in damp (not wet) as if for ironing.

1. Spread oit the sponging cloth on a large flat surface. Place the fabric on the cloth in a perfect rectange. Smooth out any wrinkles so that the fabric is perfectly flat.

1. Fold the ends of the sponging cloth over the fabric.

2. Roll the entire length of woll and spongind cloth, or fold loosely into sections from both ends to meet in the center.

1. Cover the roll or the folds completely with a towel, brown paper, or best of all, a plastic bag. Dry cleaner bags are fine. Covering prevents the outer layers from drying while the inner layers remain damp, which would cause uneven treatment.

2. Let stand for several hurs. Tailoring experts say 3-4 hours are sufficient. The Wool Bureau recommends 6-8 hrs. fof light woolens, longer for heavier. Avoid overshrinking.

1. When moisture has been absorbed, unroll the wool and lay out flat to dry. Smooth wrinkles. Straighten grain if needed. If you don't have a large enough flat surface for drying, hang the wool over a door or shower rod well padded with towels. Turn the wool once during the drying process as if you are drying a sweater. Let it dry naturally. Pressing the fabric dry may make it stiff or misalign the grain which you've taken pains to keep straight.

2. If necessary to remove wrinkling after wool is sry, press it on wrong side using a press cloth. Press with the grain to within 1" of center fold. Do not press fold. Open the fabric and press the center section.

One nice thing about having factory of a service sponge the fabric for you is that in comes back in a beautifully finished state, "ready for the needle", which is one way that merchants sometimes describe factory sponged wool.

jpBill

Many thanks for taking the time to type all that! It's terrific info - very detailed, and I'm going to print it out to put in my notebook for permanent reference. It explains why the wool is so expensive. Very labor intensive. The only treatment I'd ever heard of before was brief instructions to dampen towels and roll the fabric up in them, letting it sit for a while before pressing. Oh, and to steam press the wool (a shortcut?).

Your tailoring book must be terrific. I don't imagine there are many around like it any more.

Sharon

You are most welcome. On the point of steam pressing you mentioned as a possible alternative, my book says: "Steam pressing is not enough to do the trick. Cleaning before cutting is a good possibility though reluctance to do this is very understandable"

I guess "dry" cleaning induces partial shrinkage or conditions the material at least against later shrinkage.

Yes, the book is an oldie but a goodie. Probably out of print and I got mine on the internet using Bibliofind or Amazon used books on the recommendation of a tailor.

jpBill

This is information I wish I'd had 50 years ago. We always took our wool fabric to be dry-cleaned before we'd start a garment. I had no idea what "sponging" was. What a great method.

The original question and your detailed reply is what makes this newsgroup indispensable.

Pat in NJ

Yes, this is a great group of people and chucked full of expertise as well. I'm also impressed with a fabric store that sells "sponged" fabric, now that I know what it means. Sharon

Wool is also expensive because it takes a lot more steps to produce. The wool has to be sheared from the sheep, then carded to remove the bits of vegetation and separated into levels of quality (different parts of the sheep produce different qualities of wool). Then it has to be spun into yarns and woven into fabric. In addition, the wool has to be dyed; this process does not occur in synthetics, as the color for synthetic fabric is added before the fibers are created (except in printed fabrics).

I teach a class on wool at sewing expos (just started), and have learned a lot about this amazing fabric. It's the ultimate renewable and recyclable fiber, and will last forever if you take proper care of it. It's the easiest fabric to sew, and comes in a dizzying array of kinds of fabric, from the lightest sheer to the thickest coating. If given a choice between any cheap synthetic and wool, I will take wool every time.

Wool is also highly absorbent (more so than any other fiber), and can be comfortable even in hot weather. My last show was in Clearwater, Florida, and I wore wool garments every single day of the show and was comfortable every day, even outdoors (except while wearing black in direct sunlight, which is not recommended!). You wouldn't say that about polyester! It breathes, too. unlike most synthetics.

Many people think they are allergic to wool, but it's non-allergenic. Those who believe they are allergic have not been exposed to the higher grades of wool, which do not have the irritating fibers of cheap woolens. My infant grandson got a violent rash from being held against a friend's rough wool sweater, but slept comfortably on a sheepskin. In fact, he love the sheepskin so much that we put him on it if we wanted to calm him down, or get him to sleep.

If you want an excellent book on wool, complete with samples of 35 different kinds, I highly recommend "All About Wool", in the Fabric Dictionary series written by Julie Parker.

Karen Maslowski > >

Not entirely true: I am allergic to even the highest and finest grades of unbleached and undyed wools, cashmeres, angoras... and even my own hair can bring me out in a typical histamine reaction: red rash with hard itchy lumps and so swollen as to be white on the top! AAARRRGGGHHH! I could never wear Vyella (patented wool/cotton mix), lambswool, or any other such fabric. I even have to be careful sewing nun's veiling and Liberty's finest wool challis! I wish it were not so, as I love to work with wool, but there you go - every dinosaur curve has a tail end!

Poor baby! I'm glad you found the sheepskin was good for him. I have owned the nicest pair of sheepskin mittens (softest lambswool) for many years and hardly wear them because of the reaction I get.

I shall look out for that. Properly lined and shielded from it's dreadful effects, I love to wear wool, and I really love the results I get with it for customers.

Jean Muir made a fabulous wedding dress in wool, back in the 1960's. I always wanted a winter wedding so I could copy that dress. Alas! My wedding was mid July - and the hottest day of the year! I wore silk, with a cotton lawn lined bodice.

Kate, Julie also wrote All About Silk, which has 32 fabric samples, and All About Cotton, with 40. I learned more from these books than all other fabric books put together, mostly because of the samples. It's one thing to describe bengaline, serge, matka, or duck, but it's another thing altogether to feel them while you're reading the description!

Karen Maslowski >> If you want an excellent book on wool, complete with samples of 35

Indeed! I just LOVE different fabrics, and I can claim the tax back on these as working tools - an added bonus! :) They'd also be good for showing customers the different fabric types.