Loomed at Lochcarron of Scotland, the tartan pattern is Braeriach Gunn Modern
formatting link
DD was worried, as the enclosed invoice listed 7.4 and I specifically asked for at LEAST 8 full yards. She worried for naught, it is measured in meters. According to my online conversion tool, 7.4 meters = 8.09 yards (8 yards, 3.24 inches). I measured it, and it is 8 yards plus 10 inches. Yay! I can rip lengthwise and have tartan for two "eight yard kilts" for DSIL and DGS with no center back join, and I won't have to fuss about which stripe to select for the center fronts.
Fabulous stuff, smooth as silk, tightly woven, ***perfect*** selvedges. As soon as the other two projects in the queue are finished I will start DSIL's kilt. Maybe it'll be done for him to wear at Christmas. I'm champing at the bit....
It really is wonderful! I think this is medium weight, the uncut eight yards comes in at 6 pounds 8 ounces. I am not at all sure I would be able to handle 16 ounce tartan, my hands would object... strenuously.
I will scan a complete sett-and-a-half, and print several copies of it to exact scale. I can then work out the size of each pleat-face on paper. For some reason that worked for me better than using chalk or pins on the fabric last time. The setts are about 6.5", I'm hoping for 9 pleats per sett, of just under 3/4" each. Makes for a lot of pleats, but that is what makes a kilt swing so beautifully.
It is much darker "in person" than that picture on their web site. Black, very dark blue, dark green, and red. I'm really glad I have the lighted magnifier.
A sett is one complete pattern of the stipes in a tartan. I will be "pleating to the sett", so that when done, the unpleated apron and the pleated back look identical, even though there is several yards of fabric in the pleated portion. .
formatting link
"The resulting blocks of colour repeat vertically and horizontally in a distinctive pattern of squares and lines known as a sett."
Before I'm done, you'll all either know way more than you ever wanted to about kilt-making or have me killfiled. ;-> See DGD's McKellar kilt on my site. No construction pictures, but you can see the pattern repeat front and back.
Oh yes, there's nothing like the feel of quality fabric in your hands. I'd be scared to death to mess up, but then, as you remarked, most of the work is done on paper and there is little cutting. That, I guess, makes errors only a waste of time but not of material.
I went to your page with the Mc Kellar kilt; scrolling down through all the steps, I couldn't help but wishing I had somebody who'd 'take all that trouble' for me. But then I remembered that I had once: both my grandmas would sew. My dad's mom was more for the basic stuff; I remember she made me a winter coat and cap, the cap with very soft rabbit fur around the edge. Oh, and a summer dress of some pale blue synthetic with a Dupioni-like fall and look, with wide strips of lace for shoulder straps. My other grandma made and embroidered for me - among other things - a brown linen dress with large flowers on the hemline. And I hated it! Because it was a dark chocolate brown! Can you imagine that? Kids can be so stupid! Anyway, I now remember them and their kindness, and hope that they knew in their lifetimes that one day I'd be grateful.
Anyway, have fun with your quality stuff, and perhaps take it easy lest you ruin your hands and eyes. ;-)
Except that there actually is quite a bit of cutting, just not in the usual sense of cutting to a paper pattern. I have updated the kilt pages today with lots more pictures.
Ah, you must have been peeking while I was updating. This morning there was nothing on the McKellar page but a picture of the front of the McKellar, and the back of the Royal Stewart (in error). I think it's better now.
I know what you mean. I wish I still had some of the special things my mother made for me before I started sewing all my own clothes. She made us little red hooded capes with white rabbit fur around the hood. CUTE! But gone...
My eyes are doing very well since cataract surgery, so no worries there for now. It's my back that gets a workout, I tend to lean forward when doing hand work.
InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.