Thread

Hi All, My name is Tracey and I live in Auburn, WA. Love reading the group, have for a long time. I quilt some, sew some and just inherited a Viking 1+ from my grandmother, just like new, so I have the bug again.

I have two questions:

1) Can anyone direct me a site or perhaps tell me the differance in threads (cotton, polys, etc.). I never could understand which to use for what.

and

2) Are there any sites with free patterns; I am looking for a baby bib pattern; bought a couple yesterday but still not what I am looking for.

Thanks so much, Tracey

Reply to
TRC
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I don't know what sites show the difference between threads, but what kind of bib are you looking for? I have made lots of bibs. What I do is trace a plate onto paper, then take a smaller plate and trace that into the first circle to make the top. Cut 2 of these from fabric sew them right sides together, put in straps or use bias binding for straps. (not very scientific I know)

HTH

Michelle Giordano

Reply to
Doug&Michelle

There are a number of great things to read on sewing.org website. This is from there and although it says "sergers and thread" it's not about just serger threads. It may help you out some.

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Reply to
Vicki Terpstra

Are you looking for embroidery patterns for the bib? Visit alt.sewing.mach-embroider. You can find machine embroidery info and sites with free embroidery patterns.

I have a Viking Rose. If you need any additional information or site suggestions, email me.

Suzanne

TRC wrote:

Reply to
Suzanne McHenry

I got a Viking 1+ a few months ago!! I absolutely LOVE it and have been using it a LOT!

There's a YAHOO group:

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-------------- You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.=20

--Mae West=20

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Reply to
IMS

You lucky thing! :)

For sewing I tend to stick to the following:

Cotton fabrics: Cotton thread Silk fabric: silk thread Poly fabric: poly thread Wool fabrics: cotton thread poly/cotton fabric: poly or polycore (poly wrapped in cotton) Poly/wool blends: poly or polycore, or cotton on softer weaves Wool/silk blends: silk thread Other silk blends: silk thread Hand sewing: silk threads Buttonholes: either the same thread used for stitching the garment, or machine embroidery thread. But NOT metallic threads! Embroidery threads are finer and smoother than standard thread, and gives a great result, especially on light weight fabrics.

Reply to
Kate Dicey

WOW!!! Thank you all so much for your help!!!

Reply to
TRC

I got a Viking 1+ a few months ago!! I absolutely LOVE it and have been using it a LOT!

There's a YAHOO group:

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-------------- You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.

--Mae West

--------------

Thank you very much Irene. I have signed up for the Group and look forward to seeing you there. I am waiting for a phone call to start classes ($25.00 each) in Renton, WA. I haven't decided if I should do that or just try and learn this on my own; I have a very extensive manual and have learned the basic sewing on my own (I can thread the machine and have sewn some on a quilt I am making). I don't know if I am that much in to the embroidery end of it although it is beautiful, I just don't know if I want to comit to that when I have three quilts to finish and wanting to make baby/children clothes (I am a Nanny for a 4 month-old baby girl).

Anyway, thanks again Irene!

Tracey

Reply to
TRC

I'm a great fan of using a thread made of the same fiber as the fabric so that the thread and fabric will react the same way to cleaning and the passage of time. Sometimes I go so far as to use waxed ravelings for hand work to be sure the color still matches after the garment has been worn in the sun.

Linen and wool threads are hard to come by, and seldom suitable for machine stitching when found, so I sew linen with cotton and wool with silk. Keeping plant fibers with plant fibers, animal fibers with animal fibers, and synthetics with synthetics is more important than an exact match. Animal fibers are preserved by acids and destroyed by alkalis; plant fibers are the other way around, and every cleaning agent that whitens cotton yellows wool -- if it doesn't dissolve it.

Around here, all the readily-available cotton sewing threads are only three ply, which makes them too weak to trust for seams in garments that are going to be worn and washed many times, so I use cotton sewing thread only when I need to match a color. For seams where the thread doesn't show, or where I don't mind a contrast, I use six-ply crochet cotton

-- DMC's Cordonnette #100. The quality is enough better that I don't mind winding it off the ball onto spools. It helps, perhaps, that I have several 800-yard wooden spools, so I don't have to wind one very often. Also, I snitched a hand-cranked antique drill from DH's workshop, which makes the job go much faster. (Bobbins can be wound directly from the ball.)

Joy Beeson

Reply to
joy beeson

Hi Tracey,

I have a 17 page .pdf document on Threads. I can't remember where I got it but you are welcome to a copy of it. Email me with your email address and I'll send it to you.

-- Nadyne Nelson snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net

Reply to
<nadyne

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