Grading is trimming the seam allowances to different widths. This is important where you have something like a set in collar, and there can be up to 8 layers of cloth and interfacing. if you trim all the seam allowances to different widths, you get a much smoother finish than if you chop them all off at the same width. If you also pink the edges of the thicker layers, this helps.
Pinking sheers are for trimming and finishing edges only: the blades are too thick and clumsy for cutting out.
No, they are too clumsy. You need sharp pointed scissors for clipping seam allowances.
Whatever suits! :) Just a little off one side, and a bit more off the other - you soon learn what works where and for which fabrics.
Susan,
For somthing like the front seam of a blouse, where you have front fabric, facing fabric, and a layer of interfacing, using a standard 5/8" seam, I'd trim the layers to something like - 1/4" front facing, 3/8" interfacing, 0 on the front main fabric. You then press all the seam fabric over to the facing side, and understich up the facing to hold it all together, and to help the front very gently to 'roll' over at the seam edge, to get that professional finish on the front of your blouse.
Collars are harder, because you have more layers, and have to clip and notch to ease things round. Say you've got 4 layers of faric, and you've used a 5/8" seam alloance. Your layers would be (say) 1/8 for the furthest from public view layer, 2/8", 3/8" and 4/8" on the side closest to the garment fabric. This may be too big on certain collars, and you might want to reduce the layers, so the largest layer is only 1/4" - 3/8". Just don't cut into your seam! Clips and notches can vary from every 1/4" to every 1" or so, depending on the radius of the curve.
HTH, Sarah
A flat fell is when you sew WS together, trim one seam allowance (this one gets tucked under by the top) and fold the edge of the long side (top) under and edgestitch down. Your blue jeans typically are flat felled along the leg seams. A french seam is sewing material WS together smaller than the seam allowance, press and then you will turn the fabric WS together and sew again on the seam allowance. The first seam you made s/b smaller than the second as it will encase the raw edge i.e. for a seam allowance of 5/8" total, the first seam should be a 1/4" and the second one 3/8" HTH Michelle
in
The French seam is sewn first with right sides of the cloth facing out. The stitching is very close to the cut edge. You then turn it so right sides of the cloth are together and the cut edges are hidden, then sew again on the seam line.
The felled seam is sewn with right sides together. You then trim one seam allowance to about a third of the original width. Fold the remaining wide one over it, and stitch through the fold, sewing the seam allowance down to the garment piece, so the second line of stitching shows on the outside.
I have diagrams if you would like them.
Hi Heidi
French seams leave you with only one line of stitching on the outside of the garment. Basically, you sew your garment seams, with wrong sides together, trim the seam allowances, then turn the garment right sides together and sew another seam, enclosing the first one. It's a very strong seam because there are no raw edges, but it has some disadvantages. It makes garments hard to fit, it won't lie flat on curves, it can be a bit bulky, and it does feel like working backwards until you get used to it. You usually see this sort of seam inside good-quality lingerie - it stands up to a lot of washing.
:) Trish
Clipping the corners off the interfacing before you sew the collar together helps a lot.
Joy Beeson
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