Hello all,
i made a muslin of a raglan shirt pattern with a contrast panel on the both sides that goes from the arm pit down to the hem .
I did not like the fit completely, the under arms had a bit too much slack and poof out (arms down) the raglan sleeve line was a bit to steep and under shot my pit by 1.5 inch or so. and the contrast panel was a bit to subtle.
So, i drew new shape lines on the muslin, i changed the sleeve line angle so thet raglan sleeve line aimed at top of the pit (arms down). i also redrew the front panel line to where i wanted it to follow my general shape just along and the edge of the pecs then down with slight flair out.
Problems come trying to transfer to the pattern.
1, transfered angle to the sleeve front/back and to the body panels front and back. add to body panel and remove from sleeve.- then transfered the re-shape lines to the front and back body panels along the sides where it attaches to the side contrast.
- altered the side contrast panel edges to add the part taken away from the body panel's side reshaping and also adjust the curve in the top of the side contrst panel where it will join to the sleeve under the arm.
Problems,
- the armpit poof got worse pokes out from under the armpit more.
- the sleeve does not match up with the arm hole, the sleeve edge is about 2" longer than the edge it attaches to on the body panels/side contrast panel. i tried to reshape the side contrast panel but it really makes a deep U to take care of all that 2" of extra length sleeve edge ?
- The raglan sleeve angle line looks good
- the body panel (front and back) reshape looks good/acceptable
- the contrast panel went from too subtle to grotesquely big/wide even though it does not appear to be so big on paper.
maybe i have not followed good sound pattern adjustment practices ? any hints or tips on how to properly modify this raglan sleeve and shape.
thanks for any helpful ideas, robb