trouble altering raglan sleeve and contrast side panel ?

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Hello all,

i made a muslin of a raglan shirt pattern with a contrast panel
on the both sides that goes from the arm pit down to the hem .

I did not like the fit completely,
the under arms had a bit too much slack and poof out  (arms down)
the raglan sleeve line was a bit to steep and under shot my pit
by 1.5 inch or so.
and the contrast panel was a bit to subtle.

So,  i drew new shape lines on the muslin,
i changed the sleeve line angle so thet raglan sleeve line aimed
at top of the pit (arms down).
i also redrew the front panel line to where i wanted it to follow
my general shape just along and the edge of the pecs then  down
with slight flair out.

Problems come trying to transfer to the pattern.

1, transfered angle to the sleeve front/back and to the body
panels front and back.
   add to body panel and remove from sleeve.
2. then transfered the re-shape lines to the front and back body
panels along the sides where it attaches to the side contrast.
3. altered the side contrast panel edges to add the part taken
away from the body panel's side reshaping and also adjust the
curve in the top of the side contrst panel where it will join to
the sleeve under the arm.

Problems,
1. the armpit poof got worse pokes out from under the armpit
more.
2. the sleeve does not match up with the arm hole, the sleeve
edge is about 2" longer than the edge it attaches to on the body
panels/side contrast panel. i tried to reshape the side contrast
panel but it really makes a deep U to take care of all that 2" of
extra length sleeve edge ?
3. The raglan sleeve angle line looks good
4. the body panel (front and back)  reshape looks good/acceptable
4. the contrast panel went from too subtle to grotesquely
big/wide  even though it  does not appear to be so big on paper.

maybe i have not followed good sound pattern adjustment practices
?
any hints or tips on how to properly modify this raglan sleeve
and shape.

thanks for any helpful ideas,
robb



Re: trouble altering raglan sleeve and contrast side panel ?


robb wrote:
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Pattern number?

Beverly



Re: trouble altering raglan sleeve and contrast side panel ?
Dear Robb,

It sounds to me like you altered the pattern, rather than altering a
muslin.  You can't do that--it never turns out right.  Make a muslin
from the original pattern,  sew it together with basting stitches so
it's easy to pull apart, then make all your alterations on the
muslin.  Don't transfer these marks from the muslin; sew any that need
sewing, and then use the muslin for your pattern.  You'll get much
better results.

Teri

Re: trouble altering raglan sleeve and contrast side panel ?

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altering a
muslin
stitches so
that need
much

Thanks Teri,

You are correct that i tried to transfer my muslin markings back
to my pattern copy.

That is ... I made a pattern copy. i made a muslin. i made
modifications/lines on the muslin and tried to transfer those
markings back to my pattern copy and then make another muslin
from the altered pattern.

i will try your suggestion out

thanks
robb


Re: trouble altering raglan sleeve and contrast side panel ?

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Hello Beverly,

I am using this pattern (shirt only)
http://www.kwiksew.com/Catalog/cat_detail.cfm?pid=2881

and i am trying to make the pattern a loose fit according to the
sizing chart advice given at the bottom of the following page
for having swimshirts fit more like a T-shirt than a surgical
glove.

http://www.sungrubbies.com/product_index_html/product_detail_html/Sun-Protective-Swimwear-LongSolid.htm

I already went up two sizes in the pattern and if i go up more
then i may have to make more reduction adjustments to other areas
rather than increase the width of the side panel on the size i am
currently using. I could probably go without the other
adjustments (ragan angle and front panel shape ) *BUT*  thats one
reason  i like to sew, to customize and make unique changes.

Thanks for any helpful advice,
robb




Re: trouble altering raglan sleeve and contrast side panel ?
"robb"  wrote:
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Is your muslin fabric "two-way stretch fabric with 75%
stretch on the lengthwise grain"???

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Why are you using that pattern?  From that site:

"The shirt, shorts and trunks are designed for two-way
stretch fabric with 75% stretch on the lengthwise grain. We
suggest using swimwear fabrics with spandex-Lycraš.
The men's pull-over, very close fitting shirt has short
raglan sleeves and a collar."

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http://www.sungrubbies.com/product_index_html/product_detail_html/Sun-Protective-Swimwear-LongSolid.htm

Does the saying "Trying to make a silk purse from a sows
ear" strike a chord???

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Disclaimer:  I am not a big fan of KwikSew patterns.  I have
tried several and never yet been satisfied with the fit,
drafting, or design.

That said, I would start over using this one of these or
something similar:
http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=9499

http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5282.htm?tab=unisex_men_uniforms&page=1

Sized for stretch knits, but not meant to be skin tight.  It
seems to me your desire to "...customize and make unique
changes." often results in banging your head against a wall.
Doesn't that hurt? After you have been sewing for 10+ years,
you will likely find it somewhat easier to make major
pattern alternations.  ;-)

This profile confirms my recollection that you first posted
here just a couple of years ago:
http://groups.google.com/groups/profile?hl=en&enc_user=OZC6FhEAAAB8SrwhNNZdbrFUNOe-R7t3IZ6HvvJW0y4Pue0pYgAOJQ

so give yourself a little more time sewing *exactly as the
pattern designers intended*, and THEN start tweaking the
design elements.That included following the "suggested
fabric types", etc. I don't know what fabric you are using,
however, if you try to make a garment from a pattern created
to utilize the properties of 75% stretch knits, but
substitute a woven (or even a knit with less stretch), you
are doomed to lots of frustration and/or failure.

JMHO

Beverly






Re: trouble altering raglan sleeve and contrast side panel ?

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Thanks for the help Beverly,

i thought  muslin was just a metaphor for a first pass sewing
draft of a pattern.
i am using this fabric for my muslin
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=AAA805

and i plan to use this  fabric in a different color.
http://www.rockywoods.com/Welcome-to-Rockywoods-Outdoor-Fabrics/4-way-stretch-Sun-Blocker-Fabric-Lavender


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I want to make a swim/rash guard shirt for some wave
riding/boogie boarding and to provide some sun protection too. i
thought starting with a swimwear style shirt pattern would be
better or closer  than trying to use a pajama or t-shirt pattern
which is very loose.

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http://www.sungrubbies.com/product_index_html/product_detail_html/Sun-Protective-Swimwear-LongSolid.htm
Quoted text here. Click to load it

i think in my case a closer analogy would be.
making a loose sow's ear  from a tight sow's ear pattern.


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http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5282.htm?tab=unisex_men_uniforms&page=1
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challenging activities  have never stopped me from trying
something as a learning experience and making mistakes has never
scared me away from learning. as for learning i think people
learn more from their mistakes

sometimes one  has to bang on the wall to understand the wall and
to know how challenging the wall really is.

I don't think i have tried to hide the fact that i just
*stumbled* into sewing about two years ago. When id did start
with even the tiniest sewing project i thought it was fun and i
quickly look for the challenging aspects when i start any new
hobby .

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i do sew the straight patterns too  but if i can not find a
pattern that suits my project then what am i to do but find
something close and try to alter ?

thanks again Beverly, for the helpful advice.
robb


Re: trouble altering raglan sleeve and contrast side panel ?
robb wrote:
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Ok, that appears to be within the range of "similar to the
specified fabric" and so probably close enough to the
pattern requirements to be perfectly acceptable.  The words
"muslin" or "toile" are used interchangeably on this group
to mean "a first-draft-practice-mock-up of a pattern or
design".  I wasn't challenging your use of the word, I was
concerned that you might have been using a woven or
non-stretch fabric.  One very necessary requirement in
making a successful toile/muslin is to use fabric with
similar attributes to the real deal.  Sorry...

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http://www.rockywoods.com/Welcome-to-Rockywoods-Outdoor-Fabrics/4-way-stretch-Sun-Blocker-Fabric-Lavender

That should suit the suggested fabric for the pattern
nicely.

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I did not understand why you wanted to make major changes to
what seemed to be a less-than-perfect choice of patterns.  I
also did not know that you WERE using a stretch fabric for
you muslin.

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http://www.sungrubbies.com/product_index_html/product_detail_html/Sun-Protective-Swimwear-LongSolid.htm
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;-)  Agreed.  However, then you say:

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So I couldn't understand why you were using THAT pattern as
it apparently did not meet your needs/requirements.  Going
up TWO SIZES and still not getting the desired result would
send me off in an entirely different (vis-a-vis pattern
selection) direction.  But maybe that's just me. ;-)

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But, pity the innocent wall....  ;->

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I have to liken that to a desire my to race in the
Indianapolis 500.  Looks like a ton of fun!  But no matter
how many times I hit a wall or spin out or roll my vehicle,
those challenges really are not going to qualify me for
Memorial Day weekend.  I will have to come up through the
ranks and that means starting out on small local tracks,
learning the vagaries of downshifting, exactly where and how
fast to enter a turn, how to accelerate out of the curves,
and learning all the other skills, a race at a time, over
many months or years.  Then maybe I'll be able to race the
500.  Well, after finding deep pocketed sponsors....

;-)

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Have you taken a class in pattern alteration?  Or at a
minimum stocked your library with some good books on the
subject?

Robb, don't get me wrong.  I admire your get-up-and-go
CAN-DO attitude.  I really do.  Just once in a while I
wonder why you have set yourself up to struggle so.  This
was one of those times.

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You're welcome, carry on....

Beverly



Re: trouble altering raglan sleeve and contrast side panel ?


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Does it have to be raglan?  If not, there's a few options out there. I
would think that a cycling jersey (Jalie 2216
<http://www.jalie.com/sewingpatterns/patterncovers/2212.html , Green
Pepper 402) would be good for this -- just cut the hem even.   Or kwik
sew 3570 <http://www.kwiksew.com/catalog/cat_detail.cfm?pid=3570 .

Jalie 2212
<http://www.jalie.com/sewingpatterns/patterncovers/2212.html has a
nice fitted T-shirt -- should be easy enough to lengthen the sleeves.

Starting over might be easier than trying to get this one to work.
Then again, if you're in it for the challenge.....

--
Jenn Ridley : snipped-for-privacy@newsguy.com

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