troubles sewing a gi collar ?

Dear Robb,

I've made gis for my son. That collar is more than 1.5 inches wide. It's at least three inches. Here's what I do. I sew a line of stitching around the curved part of the neck a needle's width away from the seamline (inside the seamline). Then clip to the stitching as many times as needed to make is straighten out when you sew. Press the collar in half lengthwise, gently stretching the raw edges and steaming them into a curve. Now sew as you stated, and it should go straight on. For your first one, you might want to mark the center of the collar, and the center back neck of the gi, and start sewing there, instead of going from one end to the other. After you make a few, you won't have to do that.

Teri

wide.

away

stitching

Press

and

should go

center of

sewing

make a

Thanks for the help Teri.

Looking at an original gi collar I thought it would be as simple as following the 1" binding seam allowance line around the gi edge but I guess i keep trying to take too many shortcuts. I didn't press or clip into the curve. I can see that the straightening out part alone would greatly improve my results.

thanks again for the help. robb

Robb, a really important lesson to take from this is:

short-cuts=short-cut-quality

AKA: "garbage in, garbage out"

If you want high-quality results, use high-quality methods. There are some "short-cuts" which work well if all you're banging out is play clothes for youngsters who will outgrow the garment before it falls apart. But for really good results, use really good methods. I like couture sewing because I love the finished look. And *I* will always know that the garment is finished on the inside just as well as it is outside.

Beverly, finishing up the velvet jacket this week...at last....

Beverly,

Sounds like my mantra for the rugrat goofs around here "did we learn anything from this experience ?"

is there a good couture book to look for ?

thanks robb

I like Claire Schaeffer's book:

This is the one I have and like the best. Emily

I have several very good couture technique books in my sewing library (several on bridal sewing, you have a few years before you'll need those, I think), but the one I like best overall is Claire B. Shaeffer's "Couture Sewing Techniques":

is full of great pictures, very clear illustrations and explicit directions. Claire is the best in my book. I also have, and like a lot, Claire Shaeffer's "High Fashion Sewing Secrets" Roberta C. Carr's "Couture; The Art of Fine Sewing". the amount of the time I spend sewing I want *fabulous* results. If I want mediocre garments which are sewn poorly, I can always go to Macy's. ;-} NAYY,

Beverly

> It is full of great pictures, very clear illustrations and > explicit directions. Claire is the best in my book.>

> and Roberta C. Carr's "Couture; The Art of Fine Sewing".>

> For the amount of the time I spend sewing I want *fabulous* > results. If I want mediocre garments which are sewn poorly, > I can always go to Macy's. ;-}>

I also like Susan Khalje's "Sewing Linen and Cotton". Most of the techniques in there can be translated to other fabrics as well.

I would suggest a trip to the local public library. Just browse through the shelves and see what is available, and which ones "speak" to you.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

Susan Khalje's "Bridal Couture" was an excellent resource when I was making DD's wedding gown in '04.

also really like Susan Andriks' "Bridal Gowns: How to Make the Wedding Dress of Your Dreams": are fabulous books, but Robb probably has a few years before he needs to polish his gown-making skills. ;-) Beverly