Waistcoat Collar Results - Was 'A little help please'

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Thought I would send an update on my stripey collared waistcoats.
Managed to finish everything ( last bit of trimming was done at 11:30am
on the day we were packing to leave at 3pm).  Learnt an awful lot doing
it and now know what padstitching is plus quite a few other important
details ( thanks for the guidance ). I have since purchased a couple of
tailoring books to help with future projects.  The collar I had in mind
would have never fitted to the neckline I had already cut - not enough
planning, too much dive in head first me thinks.

Kate - I think 'experimental' is the best description ever applied to
my sewing :-)

I have uploaded a couple of pix of the finished outfits here

http://gallerycygnus.fotopic.net /

One of the pix is our Saturday night outfit, and I will apologise now
to anybody who does accurate costuming - these outfits were never
intended to be accurate - just fun :-)


Cygnus - Like the swan - trying to present a calm serene exterior
whilst paddling like fury beneath


Re: Waistcoat Collar Results - Was 'A little help please'

cygnus skrev:


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Wow! They look fantastic! :-)

Erin
http://arkivarie.livejournal.com /


Re: Waistcoat Collar Results - Was 'A little help please'
cygnus wrote:

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Sometimes things that are 'flavour of' rather than faithful copies to
the very last stitch are more fun and a lot more interesting!  :)

These outfits look fabulous!  :)

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: Waistcoat Collar Results - Was 'A little help please'

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Simply smashing!  Thanks ever so much for sharing the pics.  Way cool. :)

--
I fear me you but warm the starved snake,
Who, cherished in your breasts, will sting your hearts. (Henry VI, Shakespeare)

Re: Waistcoat Collar Results - Was 'A little help please'
cygnus wrote:
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Wow!  Really fantastic!!  Great job!
--
Joanne
stitches @ singerlady.reno.nv.us.earth
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: Waistcoat Collar Results - Was 'A little help please'
Thanks for the comments everybody.  I've already started thinking about
the next adventure and who knows it might be a little better planned
this time.

One question to ask - The hardest part of the last lot was gathering
fabric evenly, the shirts on Saturday night were very full in the
sleeves and body and I found it very difficult to sort out the gathers
and get it all stitched down tidily. I must have had about 50 pins in
at one point.  Is there a particular method anybody can recomend.

Thanks

Cygnus - Like the swan - trying to present a calm serene exterior
whilst paddling like fury beneath


Re: Waistcoat Collar Results - Was 'A little help please'
this time.
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The method I still prefer (and yes, I know many like short-cut
methods) is the one I learned in the 50s:  Sew two parallel lines of
gathering stitches, with the stitch length *lengthened* to about
6/inch and the needle thread tension *quite loose*.  For something
very full, being gathered to another piece, *quarter* the two:  Mark
the half/way point and then the half-way between each of those, and
pin together.  Pull up the bobbin thread slowly, and ease the
gathering between each set of pins.  You can put the pins every
"eighth" if necessary.  See how I applied gathered ruffles to DD's
wedding petticoat here:
http://home.comcast.net/~beidesign/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-1529775.html
That was 10s-of-yards of tulle gathered to taffeta.

By having a 1/4" space between the two rows of gathering stitches, you
have a flat(ish) area in which to sew.  For gathers for a shirt
sleeve, I would place one row or stitches *at* or a *scant bit inside*
the seam allowance, then the second row 1/4" away in the seam
allowance.  If the fabric would not retain stitching marks, I'd
probably put the first row at 3/4", and the second at 3/8", and then
remove the ones at 3/4" but *only* if it didn't damage the fashion
fabric.

If you are gathering *yards* of fabric into a small amount, it helps
to use upholstery or buttonhole thread in the bobbin.

HTH,

Beverly



Re: Waistcoat Collar Results - Was 'A little help please'
I normally divide both the fabrics into 4ths or even 8ths if it is very
large as in a skirt; then I gather it by sections and only have to pin at
the end of each section.  Go slow toward the end of each and slide a few
gathers overlapping so as not to leave gapsbetween the sections where it's
pinned.  HTH.
Am I making sense tonight?  I am tired and have an ear ache for some strange
reason, something I have very seldom suffered in my 75 years.
Emily



Re: Waistcoat Collar Results - Was 'A little help please'

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Exactly.  That is what I do as well.  Even with set in puffy sleeves, I
generally split the gathering in half and it comes out much more even.

--
I fear me you but warm the starved snake,
Who, cherished in your breasts, will sting your hearts. (Henry VI, Shakespeare)

Re: Waistcoat Collar Results - Was 'A little help please'
cygnus wrote:
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Several rows of hand made gathering stitches - like mini cartridge
pleating.  Looks a bit like you're gathering it up for smocking.

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: Waistcoat Collar Results - Was 'A little help please'
I think I've spotted the flaw in what I'm doing. I've only been
stitching a single row and pulling the gathers up on that.  Now I need
to find an excuse to make something with gathers in to test your
advice.

thanks for the help everybody :)

Cygnus - Like the swan - trying to present a calm serene exterior
whilst paddling like fury beneath


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