Zippers: Top to Bottom or Bottom to Top?

I USUALLY use invisibles, and ALWAYS sew those top down.

With the other type it depends... For cushion covers I start half way down one side and sew round in a rectangles, strengthening the ends with a couple of passes. I do much the same with an under-arm set dress zip. Other applications of ordinary zips usually mean hand picking, and again, I start at the top of each side and go down.

With awkward, piled, or slippery fabrics, or things cut on the cross, I hand baste before sewing. I often hand pick on dress items. Top down, again. That way any slight distortion of the fabric as you sew will be more likely to be the same on both sides of the zip, and results in fewer frog-stitching episodes...

Rippit...ripppit...rippit... ;)

For me, it's more important whether the zipper tape is up or down, not which end I start at. Best to start at the same end for each side so it doesn't get wonky though. I never go up, down and around.

ps

Do you use a special foot for those?

Oh good grief, you mean you don't baste the other ones before you sew them in? I'm not good enough to do that! I either machine or hand baste mine in first. I had an aunt that used to do that and it always amazed me. Sidebar: She and my other aunt (sisters) worked in a clothing factory during WWII. After the war they both went to work for I.J Fox. Aunt Genevieve loved to sew throughout her life. Aunt Veronica said the production work made her hate sewing and she never sewed again, though she did crochet and needlework.

I confess that I like to just go around but I don't do that with stretchy fabrics. With those, I stitch top down on both sides and the same for placket zippers (my favorite).

Doesn't it seem like it's about time for some magical new closure method? Zippers are starting to feel old...

Phae

No - the Lily has a stonking great heavy metal zip foot that easily holds the curl of the zip out of the way, and the multitude of needle positions means the stitches go exactly where I want them. :)

Nope - never have, not since I put the first one in when I was seven! :) Pins are usually enough, and sometimes (on straight firm trouser weight cottons) I don't bother with the pins...

Why bother to machine baste? You might as well sew it in first time! :)

It feeds the passion for some, kills it for others.

Magnets, perhapses... or re-if you can't get to a single layer, the trick is to put the design on B glue strips... Like Post-It notes! ;)

Bums! I got two messages crossed! Let's see if I can straighten that out...

Magnets, perhaps... Or re-useable glue strips, like Post-It notes!

I normally start at top on both sides and match the seams up at the bottom. Emily

Dear Phae,

It all depends upon what type of zipper you're putting in. A slot zipper is never used in good garments; you should use the lapped zipper application, and on very good clothing, you should hand-prick the last step.

Look at the pictures that come with the zipper, and read those directions. This is the best, and easiest way to install a lap zipper. If you need more help than that, just ask.

The trick is to machine baste the opening before ever starting with the zipper. I leave a finger-wide space at the bottom of the basting, to act as a guide. When you have practiced this a few times, it will take you less than five minutes to install a perfect zipper.

A fly zipper is not basted, but the seam allowances are pressed in place before starting with the zipper. I tape the fly pattern piece to the front pant to eliminate several layers of seams. I press the underlap 1/4 inch into the seam allowance, and the overlap right on the seam allowance. I sew the underlap, from the top down, and back stitch. If a zipper guard is to be used, I topstitch it at this point, right over the original line of stitching.

I then pin the overlap in place, right next to the fold. Turn the piece to the wrong side, and sew the other side of the zipper right next to the teeth, but only to the seam allowance, not the outside. Then, go back to the outside and do the "fly" stitching. This zipper, too, can be applied in no time at all. Even novices can do this without basting or any extra steps.

Teri

You definitely take the cake, Kate. :)

Well, I baste it to the seam allowance first--- not the outer fabric--- to make sure it doesn't move around. And then I topstitch it thru all the layers.

I am very proficient in typo and knew what you meant.