Dress Help

The best way is to start with a pattern that includes the foundation layer... However, if you need to add thisto an already existing pattern, try acquiring a second pattern with this feature and adapting it, or drafting one for yourself. Unfortunately I can't find any details of how to do this on the net to guide you. Your teacher should be able to help.

If you can find a copy of Threads magazine from

1993, Kenneth King has a very good article in it. He also has a video called "Birth of a Bustier" that is undoubtedly excellent...I haven't seen it, but everything I've read that he's done has been fascinating and thorough. Other possibilities include Susan Khalje's book Bridal Couture and (iirc) Roberta Carr's book on couture sewing, and Claire Shaeffer's couture book.

One of the bigger issues may be getting proper boning.

Kay

Dear Noval,

Methinks you're putting the cart before the horse. One doesn't begin with a dress pattern, then go back and try to put support in it. I taught design for years, and students were never allowed to cut into their good fabric until they had worked out all the bugs in a toile.

If you're taking courses in fashion design, you should have dress forms in the studio. Find one similar in shape to you (or your model). Put a bra on it and stuff it, if necessary, to give it the desired shape. Then build a support garment right on the form with net, including boning where required. The boning can go on the outside of the net, because this will be the interlining, with your fashion fabric on the outside, and the lining on the inside. Wherever the dress is going to open, the support needs to open in the same place, so allow for seams.

If you're a beginner and this is beyond your capabilities, purchase a foundation that can be attached to the dress. Put it on the dress form, and build the dress over it. The facings of the dress may be turned and sewn over the foundation to hold it in place.

Teri