PHOTO OF THE WEEK, Tailored Vest

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My latest project to complete is a vest woven from linen and dark wool.

Although a seemingly simple garment, I tore my hair out over for hours
trying to understand how to get the back neck and shoulders right.  I
drafted it from the same book that I got the jacket formula from but
there is obviously something wrong with it.

I managed to plow through and get it done but I need some help before
doing this again.

js

--
PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver
http://schmidling.com


Re: PHOTO OF THE WEEK, Tailored Vest
Great job Jack!  Buttons are beautiful, and the vest is very nice and
warm-looking...........good work!


Re: PHOTO OF THE WEEK, Tailored Vest
Jack, the vest is a beautiful piece of handiwork, especially the buttons,
which are gorgeous.  Thanks for sharing the photos.
Emily



Re: PHOTO OF THE WEEK, Tailored Vest
Dear Jack,

The end results are great, but you shouldn't have had such trouble.
The back neck facing is traced off the back, rather than drafted from
scratch; then, if it's cut on the bias, it will fit easily around the
neck.  Pressing with lots of steam also helps to shape it.  This piece
should be added to the back before the fronts are sewn to it.

Try finding a book that shows you how to draft a tailored men's shirt.
This is what is used in industry as the basis for all menswear tops.
You would then always start with the correct slope at the shoulders.
The basic shirt does not have yokes, collar or front bands; these are
all details that are made from the basic shape, and are drafted from
your personal measurements.  To design, you simply trace around the
template to get started, then add the details desired.

The buttons are beautiful.  I hope you're putting labels or some other
documentation on all your pieces, not only your clothing projects, but
everything.  All will someday will become valuable heirlooms.

Teri


Re: PHOTO OF THE WEEK, Tailored Vest
snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:
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If I understand what you are saying, this is not the way this one works.
  The back neck is an integral part of the front... sort of like a long
handle.  Incidentally, very wastefull of hand spun/woven fabric.

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Interesting... now where is that book?


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I toyed with that but seems like I have to invest big bucks in a
computerized sewing machine to make them.  I suspect someone out there
makes custom labels for peanuts by comparison.

js

--
PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver http://schmidling.com

Re: PHOTO OF THE WEEK, Tailored Vest
Jack Schmidling wrote:

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Indeed they do!  I get mine from a company in Washington New Town, Tyne
& Wear (up near Newcastle), called Dainty Supplies.  They print what I
want on them, they last longer than the garments, and I get my details
and washing/cleaning instruction labels, fabric content &etc all printed
for less than most places.  They'll print as few as 25 of any one type
of label.

Another idea is to try making up labels on the computer and printing
them on an inkjet printer onto specially prepared and mounted fabric.
You can buy the fabric blanks at places that sell sewing supplies.
Quite a lot of quilters use them, though I haven't done so yet myself.

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: PHOTO OF THE WEEK, Tailored Vest

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I tried the computer printable fabric that was supposably washable, but in
just a few washes they were almost completely faded.  The hold up for quilts
since they are not washed frequently.  Don't know if dry cleaning has the
same effect.

Joy



Re: PHOTO OF THE WEEK, Tailored Vest
I get the June Tailor brand of the colorfast inkjet fabric sheets (sold
at WalMart, among other places). Since I now make the pink dotted swiss
dance skirts for the little girls at my daughter's dance company, I
needed a way to make a lot of labels and those seem to work. I just
made sure I followed ALL the steps to set the ink (rinse, blot, flat
dry, heat set, etc.). So far, they seem to be holding up.


Re: PHOTO OF THE WEEK, Tailored Vest
Kate Dicey wrote:

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I had an embroidered label in mind.  BTW most ink jet ink runs with the
least bit of moisture. Just walk to the mailbox in the rain sometime.
You would have to find an oil base type.

js

--
PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver http://schmidling.com

Re: PHOTO OF THE WEEK, Tailored Vest
Jack, I think she may be referring to fabrics that have been specially
treated to prevent this running.  They are sold in 8.5 x 11" sheets at quilt
stores, possibly WalMart too, although I don't know.  Anyhoo, it's white
cotton fabric that has been treated, and then adhered to a thin page of
paper such that you can run it through your printer.  I have used it with no
problems in my HP printer.

By the way,  I ran across your postings here by accident and it was deja vu
all over again. ;)  I found your sausage page a couple of years ago and used
your recipes to make my first fresh sausage.  YUM!!!  Didn't realize you
were into so many other things.

Lisa in NC



Re: PHOTO OF THE WEEK, Tailored Vest
lisa skeen wrote:

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Ooh - hand-knitted sausages!  ;)  Do you grow your own piggies?

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
OT: Sausage (was tailored vest)
er...hand knitted sausages???

Jack has a lot of information about sausage making on his website, for
several different kinds of sausage.  I haven't been brave enough to try the
"other" kinds yet, but I did make the fresh sausage (I don't know what y'all
call it over there - over here, it comes in a plastic tube with a metal
clamp on each end, by the pound.  Sold in the same section as bacon.).  Very
easy, no gristly bits, and delish. :)  Jack advocates a certain percentage
of fat to meat ratio, but I don't find that so much fat is needed, just
enough to hold the sausage together and keep it moist enough to be good, but
not enough to float in the pan like store bought.

L

L
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Re: OT: Sausage (was tailored vest)
lisa skeen wrote:

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Um...  Like these:  http://www.rickythebutcher.co.uk/sausages
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I shall look them up.  I need low fat sausages...  :)

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: OT: Sausage (was tailored vest)
Kate Dicey wrote:
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I just mixed sausage spices with ground beef and used that for sausage,
and it worked fine.

IIRC the traditional ratio of fat to lean meat for sausage is 2 parts
fat to 1 part lean meat, uuuggghhhhh.  Well, even if it's 1 part fat to
2 parts lean meat, you can still use lower-fat ground beef and come out
ahead.

Re: OT: Sausage (was tailored vest)
Melinda Meahan - take out TRASH to send wrote:

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Many UK and German sausages are made with 95% or more lean meat these
days.  Some of the ones I get are 98% fat free, and delicious.

--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: OT: Sausage (was tailored vest)


Kate Dicey wrote:

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AND you can buy sheese with the little green keyhole for healthy; cheese
at 18% fat and margine at about the same.

klh in VA USA

Re: OT: Sausage (was tailored vest)
Kate Dicey wrote:
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Well, I don't know about the UK, but some things labeled 98% fat free
over here are not 2% calories from fat, so be careful.

Re: OT: Sausage (was tailored vest)
Melinda Meahan - take out TRASH to send wrote:

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Oh, it's a given that if something that has less than 2% fat content
more of the calories in it will come from the other stuff than the fat
(unless we're talking buttered vegetables!), but it's the fat I have the
problem with, not the total calorie content.  And animal fats are worse
than vegetable fats, as they have a more disastrous effect upon my insides!

98% fat free port sausages are better than 98% fat free beef sausages,
but both are better than ordinary fat content pork sausages.  I love
things like lamb sausages too, but they never come 98% fat free as even
the leanest lamb has more fat in it than that.

You might also be surprised at the high fat content of some things like
commercial veggie burgers and sausages.  Some are MUCH higher than even
ordinary sausages, never mind the extra lean ones!

One reason I'm interested in hand-knitted sausages is that if I make
them I have greater control on the things that go in them.  I've always
hated really fatty sausages, even before I had the digestive problems
and needed to lose weight.  Even as a small skinny child I'd cut off
every visible morsel of fat from any meat I had, dig the fatty lumps out
of sausages, and refused to eat salami or black pudding if there were
visible lumps of fat in it.  About the only fat I'd eat was the crozzled
to shattering point bacon rind and really well crozzled crackling off
roast pork.
--
Kate  XXXXXX  R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: OT: Sausage (was tailored vest)
You and my wife!  We're like Jack Spratt and his wife over here.  Ginny
won't eat any visible fat and will only eat ground meat that I personally
ground here at home.  Just Saturday I ground a chuck roast (sans fat blobs)
so we could have hamburgers. :)
L
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Re: OT: Sausage (was tailored vest)
Kate Dicey wrote:
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What I was talking about is that if you have something that says 98% fat
free, it does not mean that 100 calories' worth of it will only have 2
calories from fat.

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I hear you -- I can't handle high quantities of fat either, never cared
for it either, but at this point if I eat something with a high fat
content it sits like lead in my stomach and makes me feel awful.  I was
on the fatfree.com mailing list for a while and learned a lot and got
lots of good ideas.

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