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tailor tacking

There is an alternative to tailor tacking that I much prefer. However, in some cases tailor tacking is a must. My solution: Using straight pins with a large head, I use the ones that can be ironed over, Put the pin through pattern and both layers of fabric with head at the dot you want to mark. Pop the pattern off, with pin still in place, fold back the top layer, you can feel the head of the pin, take your marker, whatever you use, and you can mark a dot on both pieces of the fabric. By the way, I put my fabric wrong sides together for this purpose. You can leave the pieces together until you need to sew them, with pin still in, or separate them, if you wish. Your preference. To me, this is much faster than tailor tacking. Silvia who has been sewing 55 years.

Reply to
suzeq
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I do the pin thing on lots of fabrics, but silk or anything slippery gets the full tailr's tack treatment!

I also have a pattern marking thingy that you use with tracing paper to put dots on the fabric. That too can be very useful and a good way to mark up several layers at once.

Reply to
Kate XXXXXX

That works only if you haven't left your rotary cutter on the table right next to the patterns marker thingy and left the blade exposed. I did that once and learned to be sure cover the blade and to move the cutter far,far away from my work area. I cut the neatest slash you can imagine into a piece of fabric because I didn't put the cutter away. Learned that lesson well and good. Juno

Reply to
Juno

Ooooouuuuuccccchhhhh! I can see me doing exactly that!

Reply to
Pogonip

Sounds like something I would do; in addition to slashing my finger :)

-Irene

Reply to
IMS

Sounds like something we would see on an I love Lucy episode if they were made today. Taria

IMS wrote:

Reply to
Taria

This is one of the methods I use for marking, but I've got a couple of others, too... so some random comments:

--for tailor tacks on loosely woven fabrics, I often use serger chain. It's just 3-4 pieces of thread, so it slips through an embroidery needle eye nicely, but "fluffs up" and holds in the fabric nicely when you're not holding it taut.

-- whenever possible, I use the RTW manufacturing method of marking the point of a dart 1/2" back from the actual point, by whatever method I use... a tailor tack, a dot of chalk, a scrap of tape. The legs of the dart are often marked with a small clip to the seam allowance. Shaped darts (with curved legs) I do mark with tailor tacks, but put them 1/4" inside the dart legs, so I don't have to pick out tacks as I'm sewing.

-- end points of darts and pocket placement points can also be marked with a "scooch hole" in many (but not all!) fabrics. An awl or even a sewing machine needle, pulled through the thicknesses of fabric, can leave a distortion in the weave enough to mark the needed position. This mark should not be made on a seamline, but 1/4 - 1/2" off the actual position. Try this on a scrap of your fabric first before committing to using it on any particular fabric.

Kay

Reply to
Kay Lancaster

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