Walking Foot

It's not a matter of stretching the garment to get it on - it's not as if I make bias cut garments with negative ease, after all! They are not meant to be worn like stretch knits. No - it's allowing the fabric to drop and flex along the seam the same amount as it does in the middle of the panel so that the whole thing - seams included - has the same properties. If the seams are too rigidly fixed, the fabric will drop more in use than the seams, leading to puckered seams and a droopy, uneven hemline. This is a technique I was taught by a woman who worked both for couture houses in London and Paris, as well as in the manufactured garment industry, before becoming a teacher.

Reply to
Kate Dicey
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Whatever makes you happy and works for you, Kate.

Reply to
Phaedrine

Ah, that's the great thing about sewing - so many different ways to keep us happy! I like the stretchy method for the light weight and loose weaves, such as soft rayon, chiffon velvet, wool challis we were discussing. I like it for the flowy stuff. I'm more likely to use the fixed seam method when doing heavier wools and denim, and similar fabrics, and when I want a more tailored or sculptured look (think 60's rather than 30's.

Reply to
Kate Dicey

This is how the attachment ones work. They're OK on fabrics with a good surfac grip (i.e. stretch is your problem), poor on slippery fabrics like ripstop nylon where grip is your problem.

Next step up is something like my Pfaff, where there's a powered foot in the middle of the upper presser foot. As this needs something to drive it from above it has to be designed into the machine, it can't just be sold as an add-on accessory.

Best of all is a two part foot (like my Brother industrial) where each part is powered and walks separately.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

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