Anyone making purfume atomizers?

Not sure what your question really is, Mac. Parting should make anything perpendicular to the blank. If you're boring in advance and running on a mandrel, you can part. If you're working on a drillpress with a square blank you use a big Forstner followed by a smaller ... but I'm unsure if either of these obvious answers would have escaped you.

Mac,

I've seen a picture of a gizmo (technical term) that is held by the sander's miter gage. In your case it would have a rod that is set exactly square to the sanding disk. The rod should be a smooth fit inside the 15 mm brass tube. Slip the blank over the rod and proceed to sand the end square.

Hope this helps, Harry

not meaning to hijack this thread but i have thought about using a perfume atomizer to spray CA onto pens for finishing. seems like it could give a much more even coat of CA. but then again it may just make a mess! :-]> to your question: seems you could build a devise to do this on the sanding disk. make a dowel the right size and mount it to a block. place it against the miter guage that came with the sander to keep it square.

skeez

Hello Mac,

I've never turned any of those projects, but with the problem you describe, I've turned many things that need to have the end squared as you describe. I mount a blank of hardwood in a chuck (or on a faceplate) and turn a tenon that will just fit into the brass tube and go clear to the bottom of the hole. Then slip the blank onto the tenon, bring up the tailstock and square the end with a skew chisel or parting tool. This technique has worked very well for me on a lot of different projects and should work on this project.

Fred Holder

Thanks, Harry... I've seen them in catalogs and might make one..

The main reason that I'd make my own is that since the one you saw is a "1 size fits all", the rod for the tube is a few inches off the table... I just can't bring myself to be sanding things on my 12" disk without them being on the down-side of the disk and ON the table surface..

mac

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Thanks, Fred... Some what of a jam chuck?

I use a similar setup for holding them when buffing... might even be able to use one of my "buffing dowels" in the spigot jaws...

mac

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Hey George...

The blank gets a 15mm hole through it and then a brass tube glued in, like a big pen... The ends of the blanks (about 3" for body and 1.5" for top) then have to be squared to the ends of the brass tubes before they're put on the mandrel so that the end caps and joiners will fit flush all the way around when pressed in..

Normally, you use a "pen mill" to do this but my mill is 3/4" and not quite enough to square these ends..

You buy a shaft of the right size or make bushings, which works up to 3/4" but you use a 7/8" blank or larger for the atomizers. They're a PITA to make, compared to pens or bowls, but they sell here... (for around $30 US)

mac

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Have to say I see no problem if you use a jig to bore a blank with squared ends on a drillpress jig. It will then be perpendicular to the ends automatically. With a nice 80-tooth cutoff making the lengths for you, you'd have to do some real sanding to beat the finish off the blade!

Seems to be a .6 inch hole for us old folks. I'd make a pin chuck to stuff inside the brass tube and turn it that way, where both ends could be re-parted as required.

Wow.. a pin chuck would be a great idea, George... I think I still have your info on how to make one, have to look around..

I did break down and buy a blank drilling jig.. great investment and replaced several attempts to build one.. It's helped a lot, as the blank cutting jig for the BS that I made.. (4th or 5th try)

The pin chuck could replace the pen mandrel and bushings, if I use my micrometer for the end diameters... The bushings are the same diameter as the end caps and you turn & sand down to that diameter..

THANKS!

mac

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Those who want to make things do double duty might consider one of the commercial doweling jigs which center on the thickness of the wood by design. Bushing of appropriate size might be the first thing to look for before buying!

The pen drilling vise works great... kind of like a drill press vise but as you turn the handle, both jaws move in or out to keep the stock centered on "target"..

mac

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I ran into exactly the same problem. I solved it by drilling a 7mm hole through a chunk of scrap cocobolo, mounting it on a mandrel, and turning it down to a couple thousandths less than the ID of the perfume atomizer tube. Voila! a bushing for my pen mill, to keep it centered and aligned in the atomizer tube.

Thanks, Doug...

I tried that and realized that both of my pen mills are to small.. I need to order the larger diameter head...

COCOBOLO??? Damn, I made mine out of corien..lol

mac

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Hey, you use what you have, and I didn't have any Corian. I'm only talking about a piece half the size of my thumb, anyway. And there's a bonus with cocobolo, too: it's oily enough that the bushing is self-lubricating.

I'm leaning towards one of the 3/4" heads with changeable shafts... The shop made spacers are of, but then you still need a file or something to get any glue or burrs off the inside of the tube..

After my experience with trying to build a drilling vice before finally just paying $40 for one, I think I'll go with the pre-made spacers with the groove for cleaning the inside of the tube..

mac

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