Bottlestopper question.

thinking, those of you who make them, what do you use on the bottom of the wood where it meets the metal stopper to seal the wood from water for when the people wash the stoppers?

or HUT Crystal Coat > >I was thinking of using either the same finish on the bottom or maybe somesuperglue to seal the wood. >

My procedure is a bit easier, since I quit using friction polish years ago, but whatever the finish, I try to have it over the entire piece..

I buff everything, so it's as easy to buff the base of the stopper as it is any other part.. I feel that the layer of carnauba wax is about as waterproof as most finishes, and can be easily renewed..

This assumes, of course, that you are mating the stopper with a flat, sanded surface on the bottom, right?

I don't think either of the finishes that you're using actually seal the wood, at least not for long, so you could just use the Behlen's on the bottom, also.. Not as much shine when applied without rotation/heat, but it should seal as well as the other areas are.. YMWV

mac

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If so, does the brand matter? Are you using a buffing wheel on a bench grinder? obliviously, I am interested in learning more about it. I am always interested in learning new techniques.

Ted.. have you got HTML turned on, or something? Your posts are about 2 screens wide??

I use the Beall system and LOVE it.. on my second one, actually..

I have added all 3 sizes of bowl buffs, but only use them when I really have to.. The large ones work great, but each time I go down in size, I'm less happy I am with the results.. I do a lot of turning and estimate that I've saved hundreds of dollars on the finishes that I don't buy any more..

Most hardwoods are ready to buff as soon as they're sanded, softer woods are really helped by an application of (my preference), natural Danish oil.. Some use sanding sealer, etc... whatever is used MUST be cured or it just makes a mess out of the piece and the buffing wheels.. DAMHIKT

The last wheel is to apply and buff a layer of Carnauba wax... Very hard wax and food safe...

I resisted buffing for years... Just didn't seem like it would work.. Then, using a gift certificate, I got the system and tried it.. HOLY SHIT!

I still remember the first test... A cocobolo pen blank.. Picked it up off the shelf just like it came off the saw and held one side to the buffing wheel.. Wow, what a difference! You gotta try it to believe it... YMWV

mac

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on a lathe?

I used to use an old washing machine motor.. Beall suggests 1,750 rpm, so that worked well.. The system comes with an adapter that the wheels screw into that fits a 5/8" shaft and has a reducer to fit 1/2"..

Since I got the Nova XP, my Jet 1442 has become a dedicated buffer, so I use it with the Morse taper adapter.. I've also added an extension that screws directly onto the spindle for vases and stuff..

I really prefer using the lathe, because of the speed choices (buffs are suggested at around 2,200 rpm, as I recall) and the rotating headstock..

Some production turners will set up 3 motors to avoid wheel changes, but I'd rather save room in the shop and take that extra 20 or 30 seconds per wheel change..

mac

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About what, Ted?

I'm too old for questions like that... Not enough memory anymore and too lazy to write to the hard drive..

mac

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