Efficiency in turning mutiples. (long on purpose)

Dearly beloved,

Excepting (and respecting) the artists among us who never turn plebian objects for the common people, most of us from time to time turn with no finished object in mind or turn (or try to) many identical objects. I've turned tops, bird houses, chain pulls, bottle stoppers etc. by the dozens and have found a few dodges that speed up the turning to as near as possible identical dimensions. What are your favorite dodges for making multiple turnings, assuming artistic heresy doesn't turn you off.

I try to cut the stock and then the blanks to as near the finished product as possible. I suppose that dogmatic expert's tradition insist that we turn stock/blanks to fit the desired shape/size not the other way around, but being a practicing heretic I hate waste and often tailor the object to fit the stock/blank. I also don't try my very best on each and every turned object at each and every turning session.

Slobs have rights too, don't they? Please forgive and read on or at least don't throw up. As another Arch once said, "Stifle yourself". It's ok to wince, sigh and look toward heaven! This post is mainly an anti-spam exercise anyway, Just to keep rcw breathing in the dog days so we don't give up and jump the track.

After first deciding on the ever-loving size/shape/holding method for the best use of stock and turning effort for these small blanks I set out precise turning sequences from roughing to sanding/polishing. At my age (89) I never use a slow drying glue or finish and have been known to skip grits.

I try to design dimensions to a set of standard open ended wrench sizes instead of designing the turned object to a size and adjusting a set of calipers to match or making up cutouts and templates from plywood or tin cans. I find that softening the tips of the wrenches makes measuring while the stock is spinning easier and safer and doesn't hurt using them for wrenching.

I like to turn two or three preliminary pieces in order to see what the finished abortion will actually look like and try to adjust my thinking. Mine never look much like I envisioned them from my drawings. Anyway seeing is better for me than making multiple drawings and it's a good warmup for setting out a precise order of turning steps from bark to light pull. I do _not practice on cheaper stock, I like to use the real thing in the preliminaries so that I can know all its weapons of mass destruction in the main event.

My turning 'idiot osyncracies' could be why my turnings aren't in museums or for that matter in the homes of 'fiends' and family. Naw, there's too many other reasons. Stop groaning and share your turning dodges and quirks with us. It beats reading spam that we can't delete. :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

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Arch
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"Arch" wrote: (clip) What are your favorite dodges for

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Your idea of using open-end wrenches as calipers is a good one. I don't think I will bother to soften the metal, though, since the gap between the hardness of wood and steel is so great that I don't think anything is accomplished. As a matter of fact, I can see how a wrench, at full hardness might be pressed on the piece while it is spinning to burnish it to final dimension.

My recommended time-saving method is to do each operation on all the pieces before proceeding to the next step. And, as part of that procedure, I use a laser to set the position and depth of the cuts, so I can place each feature how I want it without stopping for lots of measurements.

What I normally would do is turn one piece to completion, using my artistic judgment to get it the way I like. I then set my laser to a significant point on the piece, and then turn that feature on each of the other pieces. Then I return the first (finished) piece to the lathe, and position my laser to another spot and go through the procedure again--and so on.

What do you think, Arch? Would that speed up the process for you?

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

Hi Leo,

I think that, as with all your good ideas, using a laser is a very good method. Efficient and easily doable. Thanks for sharing and not leaving me hung out to dry with a naked unanswered post. I chose a poor word, "softening". I should have said "rounding" or maybe "relieving" the sharp wrench tips. Come to think about it, annealing might be another of Arch's long list of undesirable methods. Think I'll keep it. :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

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Arch

Maybe it's the heat today, maybe it's just that I'm dense when it comes to some things mechanical, but I just don't get it, Leo. Can you please explain in more detail for the thermally slow?

Reply to
Lobby Dosser

"Lobby Dosser" wrote: (clip) Can you please explain

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Certainly--I am delighted. I have a laser pointer mounted to a solid part of my lathe by means of some parallel linkage. This holds the beam vertically, and allows me to move it along the work, or across the work. This is much like the laser guidance that is used for hollow turning, but it is mounted to the lathe frame, rather than the tool.

Step 1: I turn my first piece in the normal way, shaping it to get what I want. Step 2: I position my laser bean on an important point on the piece, such as the bottom of a cove or notch, or the top of a curve. Step 3: I insert each of the other blanks, one at a time, and shape them to match the one I already have done. Step 4: I reinsert my original piece, and reposition the laser at another salient point. Step 5 and on: I do steps 3 and 4 until I'm done.

I usually have to go over each piece and sort of blend the cuts to eliminate any bad transitions, and I'm done. I didn't need to use calipers, and I didn't have to keep checking to make sure I didn't over cut any part. If you put a white card on the ways, below the cut, the laser beam will start to show as you approach the correct diameter. I consider the cut is finished when the shape on the white card matches the shape and size I had when I adjusted the beam to my pattern piece. I find that I can get things within a few thousandths. Remember that no one is likely to hold the pieces close together for comparison, so they don't have to be perfect.

Let me know if any part of this is still not clear.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

I have a problem when splitting wood. Can't seem to hit the same place twice in succession, Would a laser on my axe help?

Reply to
Gerald Ross

The last paragraph cleared it up for me. Thanks, Leo.

Reply to
Lobby Dosser

On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 8:45:00 -0500, Arch wrote (in message ):

What are your favorite dodges for

At my

Mr. Fortiter, Consistent with your avoidance of slow-drying glues, and so on, I suppose you do not buy green bananas, either. (grin)

My methods are strictly old-school, I guess. As others do, I make a prototype in the material I intend for the entire project. I determine the largest diameter for the entire piece, and then turn my blanks to that diameter. Picking the landmarks - the high and low spots of the piece, I mark the blanks accordingly, each in its turn on the lathe. (no pun intended) I use a specially modified outside caliper with its ends flattened and rounded so as not to snag on turning material. With the caliper adjusted to the proper diameter for a given landmark, in my left hand - and a thin parting tool in my right, I cut a groove for the caliper to ride in, and then keep cutting until the caliper slips through the cut. You can feel how it is riding on the wood, and when it is going to slip. With practice I am satisfied with my measuring methods to give me a dimension very close to the original. When the landmarks are cut to their various depths on the rough spindle I just cut away anything that does not look like the original, attempting to use the same rhythms and modes I used in making the original. Not a purist turner, I use mainly scraping techniques for this kind of turning as it gives me the best results with my skill set. This is not scientific or extremely precise, but it works well for my wants. I have done a bit of measuring on baluster spindles in my 100+ year old front hall stairway and know that they are not any better than my own duplicating methods.

I did buy a duplicator attachment for my lathe, once upon a time, but I was not particularly happy with the results of one effort. Its principles are sound and its construction robust and precise. I suspect my own execution was at fault. In any case the duplicator now quietly collects dust and spiders in my basement. sigh.

Respectfully submitted, tom koehler

Reply to
tom koehler

Yes, especially when having someone else doing the splitting..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

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