Faceplate?

I have a question for the group.Regarding the Longworth chuck.Is it=20 necessary to have a metal face plate to attach it to the lathe if you=20 have the ability to tap a piece of wood to use in its place?

short answer no

longer answer - the wood threads won't hold up very long on your lathe - you have a LOT of torque and if you are turning a large longworth chuck (something near your lathe's limit of 40 inches, right?) I'd worry a lot about stripping out the wooden threads

you can buy just a nut from me, or you can try the wooden threads and see how they work for you

I wouldn't use tapped wood. I thought about it too, but realized that anything mounted on the spindle was going to have some stresses applied. I wasn't sure that wood would hold it in place.

I feel much safer with a metal to metal connection, not wood to metal.

Old Guy

Just a question. If you tapped wood to make glue blocks for turning bowls and the like, wouldn't they have more stress on them??

Bruce

Old Guy wrote:

Hi Bruce Good point, and I would think yes, turning a blank could/would have more stress placed upon it, it used without the tailstock to support it. The biggest problem I see with the setup is not the wooden glue block holding but the hold of the longworth chuck on a bowl, as there is very little, and very careful light cuts is about all one can make unless again the tailstock is used to support, and I would think in both cases there's no problem, just use the tailstock for support. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

CRAP

Using hard to make your face plate and it will work and what more last. I know one turner who ONLY USES HARD WOOD FACE PLATES and hot melt glue and does some large bowls. the advantage is they are inexpensive, easy to true up, and theydo not harm your tools if you happen to touch them when turning. :-)

Again CRAP some of this persons "Faceplates" are over 4 years old the trick is the choice of woods and to tighten them properly when you use them.

- you

Again as long as the wood you choose has a tight grain no problems.

aaa, mr "no way" - before you use a fecal matter reference, please read the response - you said "feces" to my response that he didn't need a metal faceplate (that's what the "no" means), and then you again said "feces" when I offered an explanation of why a metal faceplate might be a good idea. Now, I don't want to offend you or anything, but I really think that you should tone down the rhetoric until you can at least understand the response. It is totally OK to disagree, you may or may not be right, but your response below is provably wrong - the answer must be either yes, or no, and you disagreed with both.

that said, it is also bad form to attempt to refute a position by saying that you have an unnamed friend who does "some" "large" bowls - is some a number greater than one? is "large" 5 inches, ten inches, 20 inches? - if I recall correctly, Jesse's lathe will turn 40 inches - has your "friend" turned a 40 inch object using his tapped wood faceplate?

I would respectfully suggest that the invective and unquantified nature of your response suggests the application of a degree of skepticism.

Meaning regularly large bowls

bowls - is some a

no that is miniture

ten inches, No that is Small

20 inches? No that is normal

- if I

In short yes he turns Large (Very Hard) Red gum burls 30 inch dia and 15 inch deep (Big enough) that may not be 40inch but because of their irregular shape often go thump thump when starting and THAT does more damage to threads then turning normal blanks.

Actually the lathe is a Nova 1624 with 16" over the bed and 29" with the outrigger.I don't have the outrigger yet want to plan on making the chucks at the same time so i will be prepared when i get it.Didn't intend for my question to start an argument .

No Way wrote:

Jesse, this is a little off of the topic but you talked about an outrigger for your Nova. I assume that has a swivel head and the outrigger is for your tool rest. I have a jet 1236 and was doing outboard turning when I had a catch. The tool rest extension broke in half and the extension and tool rest bounced off my foot. you should have seen me hopping and trying to hit the off switch. Now I use the swivel head to turn the piece just off center to get a better attack on my work piece. Just be careful.

Bruce

Jesse wrote:

Doesn't that come with a faceplate anyway? Cheap potmetal type of about 8" diameter?

I don't think there's a lot to be saved by getting the nonstandard 1 1/4"

8TPI tap vs. a good plate. Might consider a SN2 and those faceplate rings, though. You're going to want a chuck to get greatest fun per hour out of the lathe.

Oh yes, it's really 400mm unless they changed it, and that's 15 3/4" DAMHIKT.

I use them for vacuum chucks and haven't had a problem (yet)

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I was warned NOT to use the rest extension on my 1442 for just that reason.. I figure that if I need to do any outboard turning, I'll make a free-standing tool rest first.. YMWV

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

The Outrigger accessory that I mentioned bolts behind the headstock on the bed so you can swivel the head to 90 degrees and take advantage of the extra swing .And it did come with a faceplate.A damn sturdy tank of a face plate .I trying to avoid tying it up on a piece that it will be more or less permanently mounted to.I have a Oneway Talon with the #2 jaws .The faceplate that came with it is 3" of what looks like machined steel.I was considering another larger chuck ,that is a future purchase. Have any suggestions in that regard?

George wrote:

A friend here just made a few Longworth chucks and he used a piece of hardwood glued to to the backplate. He grips that in his chuck. I don't know it he's done much on it yet, but it should work fine if you keep the RPMs down and the cuts light...

...Kevin

Which ever way the outrigger "should" be supported to the floor, that way any extra force is transfered down that support to the floor and you will not break the outrigger. This support also reduces vibration. have seen the nova outrigger used at our club for about 5 years with no accidents.

ok, sorry, there is another Jesse with a larger lathe - as I recall your Nova uses 1.25X8 threads, so you will probably be OK with hard wood if you don't overload it - on the other hand at $5 each, the faceplate is quite a bit stronger

If you've got one good one, makes no sense to me to commit it. The cheapo would be an easy decision. Your options now seem to be to use your Longworth with something you can fit in your chuck - rings are good, dovetail will do, or back off to lesser holds. Given that the Longworth isn't used for heavy work, might do with a threaded wood block, but I'd go the ring or tenon.

Not sure what the Oneway arrives with, but the Nova features a set of "75mm" jaws with a great wide area to butt against the piece for reference. Even larger 100 mm types, too. Great for tenons and fairly large mortises. If the Oneway has something equivalent, I'd go that way.

I'm not going to get into the crap-vs-courtesy issue, but I will make this point: if you buy a nut to match your spindle, and embed it in your Longworth chuck, using epoxy, you will have strong, durable threads at far less than the cost of a tap.