hot melt glue?

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I've seen lots of references to using hot melt glue (HMG) to stick scrap
blocks to bowl blanks.  

Is there a "preferred" formulation of HMG (are there different

What about quantity of HMG used (a few blobs vs "smear it everywhere you
can think of")?  

It just seems to me that most of the HMG that I've seen barely holds 2
pieces of paper together, let alone a large hunk of wood spinning at
several hundreds of RPMs.


Bruce Bowler        | Sisyphus was basically a happy man.  - Albert Camus
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Re: hot melt glue?

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Darrell is the grand guru of hot melt.  Personally I find that it makes  
mounting true on a trued piece more difficult because it's difficult to  
squeeze and distribute evenly.  Haven't played much with it since I got my  
second chuck, save to attach a top to a box cut from the same stock to keep  
the grain in register as I sand.  Even there I find myself going to masking  
tape now because it does everything I want with less fuss.

When I used hot melt on faceplate stuff I used to make concentric grooves  
with the parting tool to hold the bead, squashing to as close as I could  
with the tailstock.  

Re: hot melt glue?
Hi Bruce

I use the hotmelt glue rarely, however it is one more arrow in your
quiver so to speak, and there are times it comes in handy.

First, you use it on dry wood, have your glue gun on for a long time so
it is really heated up well, then I use a propane torch to warm up the
wood so the glue doesn't cool as quickly, and than work fast, start
gluing in the center and spiral to the edge, join and clamp it down,

O yes, and do have a look at Darrell Feltmate's website.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Bruce Bowler wrote:
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Re: hot melt glue?
I use a lot of hot glue for finishing bowls especially, although other
pieces as well. George does a better job than I at getting a trued up piece
on a chuck to run true without redoing the outside :-) Especially for doing
bowls, when a dried blank is oval now anyway, I just hot glue to a threaded
wood block and off to the lathe. I think it is well displayed on my site
under turning a bowl in the finish turning section.


God bless and safe turning
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Re: hot melt glue? wrote:
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I use a heat gun to warm the wood and the bowl. You can even get the
glue to a higher temperature with no fear of flames. If a recess is
turned in the scrap block and a foot turned to match then the whole
assembly will still stay concentric whilst drying and re-mounting for
final truing is a breeze!
Visit my site at:

Re: hot melt glue?

I have no chuck other than a faceplate, and so use my hot glue gun for
most things.  I simply run a fairly think ring of glue around the the
middle of the block, (I use a block of wood screwed to the faceplate)
and stick the wood on.

It's never come off, but does pry of easily with a flat chisel a the

So my answer is - I use whichever glue sticks are the cheapest at


Canchippy wrote:
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Re: hot melt glue?

Bostik 6303 is a good choice if you want a hot melt glue designed for
wood (and a prouct that performs ina predictable manner once you start
using it).

An application to try is an almost complete circle a little in from
the edge of your glue block (turned slightly concave).  Leave a gap in
the "circle" to prevent any air trapped pushing the glue out from
between the two surfaces.

Use too much of the Bostik and it wil be hard to remove the turned

if you finish the base of your  item and want to secure it with hot
melt, be sure to seal it first as the hot melt can tear grain.  Turn a
small recess in the glue block to take the base and assist centreing
the reversed work.  Try not to use too much.  Any adhering glue can be
removed from the base, when it is removed from the glue block, with a
rag dipped in thinners.  

This is a summary of the procedure from a very good turner who doesn't
us a chuck for bowl.



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