I Know When

I'm not a big fan of oil finishes for just the reason you're describing- they take forever and a day to cure. While I haven't used BLO, my inclination would be to make sure to use something that uses a different solvent as a topcoat. Since the linseed oil is an oil, I'd imagine it cleans up with mineral spirits. Knowing that, I'd topcoat it with either shellac (which dissolves in alcohol) or waterborne poly. Anything that shares the same solvent will mix with the preceeding layer of finish, and it will take as long as the longest cure time to fully cure- in the case of the boiled linseed oil, that could be a long time indeed, especially if it's a little old.

Now, that's not to say that this is the best advice you can get- but it might be the fastest way to go. Your best result will probably come from letting the final coat of oil cure for a few weeks, and then topcoating with whatever you like best, regardless of the solvent it uses. While I like mixing solvent types between layers for the reason above, there is something to be said for sticking with one type- the top coat will melt into the one below it to some degree, and it will be tougher than a dissimilar finish, which will be merely sticking to the surface of the previous layer. This is usually not a problem, unless you sand or wear through the topcoat, and then it is very easy to spot where one ends and the other begins.

Cedar, with its wonderful oils and odor will reject most oil-based finishes, as you've discovered. Common solvent is turpentine. Which is why most people will try to get a couple seal coats of shellac in it before trying the varnish. Controls bleed through of the oils and resins as well as anything can.

Tom, I am a big BLO fan. I have not however used it on cedar except asa stand alone exterior finish. I think the important thing with BLO is to make sure it is fresh and also to dilute it about 10-15% with pure turpentine. Swab it on to the cedar then allow it to sit for about

20-30 minutes and then buff it until almost dry. Leave for about a week and if you want to add a different solvent based finish then apply a coat of 1# or 2# cut shellac. Also Deft lacquer will go straight over BLO with no drying problems. Use a high gloss and 0000 steel wool between coats. For a superb semi gloss apply paste wax over the lacquer with 0000 steel wool and buff when dry. Pete Visit my site at:

I like shellac. Quick dry Patches easily Gloss depends on number of coats Apply with paper towel

Old Guy

I think you might just stick to carnuba wax and be done with it - that's how I finish cedar and it comes out fine - I've also had good luck with lacquer, but I've never used lindseed oil on my turnings, so I have no idea what would happen

Thanks all for the feedback. I think I'll hang up on the BLO for awhile. While it looks good, it ends up by causing me more problems than it is worth.

Tom

The oil doesn't eat through carnuba wax? It sure does a number on paste wax, but I've never tried the carnuba.

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honestly, I don't know, as I said, I've never used lindseed oil on turnings, but I do use carnuba wax alone or with laquer on turnings

Whoops- I can see how that might not have been clear. I was talking about the cedar oil, not the linseed oil. I tried waxing a cedar tabletop that I made when I first started making *real* furniture, and the oil in the wood kept eating through it. Same story with Tung oil. I have a vague recollection of shellac working, but it may have been polyurethane.

That, of course, was paste wax- which I understand is a somewhat different animal than a stick of hard carnuba wax. Cedar is always tough to finish, but if the carnuba wax holds up, it'd be worth my filing that away for future reference (though with the price that cedar and redwood have been going for in the last few years, I'm not likely to be using either of those two anytime soon!)

Nope, common solvent for the oil and the wax would lift poly and soften the wax. That's why you want the shellac or lacquer. Of course it depends a lot on which of the domestic "cedars" (none of which are) you're using. Same holds true for the red and yellow pines. Even some of the whites have enough goop in them to ruin an oil finish. Don't even THINK about tamarack.

The only cedar I use in a non-construction capacity is the wild-looking western red stuff, the more knots and color variations the better. It's cheaper than cedar construction lumber, too- though I'd be had pressed to guess why that might be.

As far as pine goes, I usually just leave that unfinished or give it quick rub with some minwax "natural" stain. I'm not a big fan of the stuff, so I don't go all out trying to make it pretty. But I'll keep it in mind if anyone ever asks me to build them something out of knotty pine.

I usually have, given to me, two types of cedar; old and new growth. The old growth is reminds me of the wood that pencils are made from and it even smells the same. Very fine and, I think, dangerous dust. Very hard to turn smoothe as it pits and does all those nasty things we turners don't like much.

I find new growth a waste of time unless it is a burl then it is probably spectacular! Easy to turn and sand and looks a treat!

Tom