Lathe Height

I'm in the process of build a stand for my new Rikon lathe and I'm wondering what height it should be at. I've see a few suggestion of making the center just below my elbows. However, my elbows measure 46" from the ground. That would put the center at 45" and that seems awfully high!

-TH

Reply to
thumphr
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Hi Terry

It depends a little on what you turn, but generally just above elbow height is the right hight. If you think here for a minute, as you turn you would lay your turning tool an the toolrest and have the tool at a slight upward slant, to have the tool cutting above center, and your arm would be like an extension of the tool. You don't want to be hunched over, your back is going to complain real quick if you have the lathe to low, and you have to bend or stoop for any length of time. So go with the general rule, if you like you could maybe keep the legs of the stand in such a way that you could later lower them, not likely though. Or you could make a temporary setup and try different heights, and then make the permanent stand.

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Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Reply to
l.vanderloo

TH,

I believe 46" is the most common height that Oneway ships. I thought that was a little high so I ordered mine at 44". Now I have oak blocks under the legs to get it to 46". When I do hollow forms I wish it were even higher. Go with 46" and be prepared to block it up. If it is too high just stand on the of of shavings you will be making. It works for Ruth N.

David

snipped-for-privacy@south40.org wrote:

Reply to
David Wade

Note how easily height is added, how difficult it is to take away and start with the height folks have been using for as long as there have been lathes - the elbow. Adjust later.

Some people feel there's a sort of magic in the grind angle and handle length of certain tools or the contour of certain rests, and will adjust their centerline in an attempt to accommodate the tool. Some will grind the tool and chop the handle to suit their height and rest to suit their setup. Since you'll want the cutting portion of the tool to be slightly above centerline on external cuts so that a slip cuts air, and slightly below on internal, for the same reason, the elbow is good. I wouldn't put too much emphasis into turning the nose of the tool up in normal operation, however. That has a greater possibility of catching than a tool cutting along the rest.

You want a stand that allows you to get as close to the centerline of the lathe as possible in front, yet has legs extending about 20% farther than the swing of the lathe to counter the thrust of an over-the-top imbalance. Such will also have a desire to lift the rear legs, so have them braced low and as far from the centerline as possible to take advantage of leverage. Rigidity and geometry are usually enough, but keep the ballast option open.

Last, think of yourself and mount the lathe on blocks over the top you decide on. Elevate far enough so you can reach in and haul shavings out from between the ways comfortably. You'll be glad you did.

Reply to
George

I raised mine for exactly that reason, it was killing my back

Reply to
Ralph E Lindberg

Did anybody who read the review of "Heavy-duty lathes" in the current Fine Woodworking notice the fact that the subject of lathe height, nor height adjustability, was never mentioned in the article.

Since a disproportionate number of woodturners are old guys with tired backs, I think that this is a major issue.

I turn at about 1" above my elbow.

Bill

Ralph E L> >

Reply to
Bill Rubenstein

One supposes that the individual variations in inseam length, turning style and tool grind would make it a meaningless measure.

Reply to
George

Clearly we are all built differently and may turn differently. But, I know what spindle height I'm comfortable turning at. Can a given lathe be set to that height or not? Is a given lathe's height adjustable and if so, what are the limits? Not meaningless questions at all, I think, if Fine Woodworking expects to help me buy a lathe by publishing this article. And if they don't expect me to use this article to make a decision, then why publish it at all?

Bill

George wrote:

Reply to
Bill Rubenstein

Not to belabor the obvious, bill, but you can put the lathe on blocks or yourself, so what's yer point?

Reply to
George

George:

I'm really short. I can put it on blocks but I can't easily cut off the legs which would be necessary on a number of lathes. As to standing on a box, don't think so.

But let's just drop it.

Bill

George wrote:

Reply to
Bill Rubenstein

It's that or grow.

Reply to
CW

High heels?

Reply to
Maxwell Lol

Even my wife can't walk in the darn things -- never did learn. Anyway, I'm 66 -- way too old to learn to walk in heels or to grow.

Bill

Maxwell Lol wrote:

Reply to
Bill Rubenstein

Box it is.

Reply to
CW

Well, I'd recommend a riser on the order of what's employed on stage. What we used at school for the vertically challenged sixth graders. Very stable. Hinge the thing like a kneeler at church.

I have a set of those Scandinavian clogs which I sometimes don to change the loading angle on my back when I'm working in the rest of the shop. I have turned in them, but they're a bit stiff for a guy who swings his body around rather than just pushing a gouge. Better with softer soles.

Reply to
George

Which is why sometimes I dream about buying a Robust

Reply to
Ralph E Lindberg

Or a Stubby S750 which is also infinitely height adjustable.

Bill

Ralph E L> >

Reply to
Bill Rubenstein

I have two lathes, one above elbow height, one quite low, perhaps just below waist height. I like both. The higher one causes more fatigue from having to hold tools up higher, however this is often fixed (with added comfort to my feet) by allowing the wood shavings to pile up 2-4 inches. I highly suggest this solution. If it's not practical, or you don't produce that many shavings, then I'd go for the lower level and block up if you don't like it. the higher level also allows me to cut with the tool well above centerline when I'm blind hollowing large diameter forms, which has to be done from the opposite side of the lathe. Cutting above CL lowers the risk of catches in this situation, and I also get a smoother cut and can cut faster with ring tools in this position.

The lower lathe is very nice for OD turning as I can hold the long tools against my hips at a very comfortable height and not tire from holding my arms up higher.

Another consideration is CL height above the ways. The large one is

13" and the smaller one is 10". I find the 10" to usually be just about right when I sit on it (not to mention it's easier to get my leg over the top since it's closer to the ground) and often have to sit on a 2-3" piece of wood when I sit on the large lathe for bottom hollowing. If you will be doing this sort of work, you might consider having a place to sit that puts the tool at a comfortable level under your armpit when you sit on the ways or on your table/bench.

If I had to choose between the two, I like the taller one because standing on 3" of woodchips really is very comfortable on my feet, and adjusts the height nicely, but if you won't be collecting woodchips of that magnitude, I'd go for just below elbow height to reduce fatigue, and block up if it's too low.

Reply to
Mark Fitzsimmons

I just wanted to know, what model of Rikon Lathe did you buy?

Reply to
Mr2A

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