Minimal bottom nib

Check out a Forstner bit. They are designed to do just what you describe. It will leave a small dimple in the bottom center of the hole and, if that's objectionable to you, you could grind off the centering nib from the bit.

They are readily available and most good hardware stores carry them as does the woodworking stores such as Rockler and Woodcraft.

Art

I have used a Forstner bits with half way decent results HarorFreight carries an inexpensive set that has the size that you are looking for. Also Cummins Industrial Tools has a good set of Forstner bits as well.

I like Lee Valley forstner bits, and in my experience they ship quite quickly. (However I'm in NY, same state as their shipping warehouse, but regardless, they process orders quickly).

I've also found Harbor Freight forstner bits to be not too bad - obviously not as good as LV's, but really acceptable. May be a good choice if you're going to grind off the center nib. You could get a full set of forstners from HF, including a 1 1/2", for a little more than you'd pay to LV + shipping. If you're going to be drilling a lot of holes, though, the LV would definitely be worth it. Hope this helps, Andy

How many ways can you say "Forstner bit"?

Lew

3 approaches come to mind.

1) quick-and-dirty: for a small number of holes, for cheap and good enough results grind a spade bit to what you need.

2) go buy a forstner bit. see other replies.

3) plunge router, straight bit with template guides and template. this is the slowest, best results and second cheapest (not counting the router...)

3 approaches come to mind.

1) quick-and-dirty: for a small number of holes, for cheap and good enough results grind a spade bit to what you need.

2) go buy a forstner bit. see other replies.

3) plunge router, straight bit with template guides and template. this is the slowest, best results and second cheapest (not counting the router...)

I was hoping I'd overlooked something. An inch and a half Forstner into a small piece (no two alike so fixturing is 'iffy') might make for an interesting work holding exercise.

I wanted to avoid that.

Bill

Compare the Lee Valley prices with these.

My eyes are getting old ... so maybe I just can't see where the >$50 difference comes in. The Lee Valley bits even look to have a heavier shank. The expensive bits MIGHT have a heavier black-oxide coating but black-ox work is jobbed out by the pound and is just for pretty ... it's an anti-oxidant coating, no more, no less. "Made in Austria" might carry some weight ... but, for a $50 per bit difference, I don't care if they were made by the Keebler elves! A couple thousand holes from now I might regret those words, but a couple thousand holes from now I'll probably just buy another LV drill and keep on truckin'.

Hey Lee ... with minor hand sharpening, I'm expecting at least 2,000 holes in medium hardwood out of those bits --- think I'll get it? ;-)

Maybe someday I'll try that other bit, but for today, I'm placing an order with LV. Those other bits are for guys who have laser cross-hairs on their hand drills.

Bill

No vise? No clamps? Can you drill the hole first, in a larger piece, and then cut off the small workpiece you need?

You mentioned needing the bit yesterday. If you live in a sizeable city you should be able to find a Forstner bit there. Check with the local hard wood lumber yard, Grainger's, Sears?, or just about any Woodworking supply store.

Right... and if you're only going to use it once or twice, buy a cheap one at the BORG..

I bought the large saw-tooth set a harbor freight years ago as a good place to start... great assortment of saws and about $50 on sale..

As I wear one out, I know it's a size that I use often and I replace it with a "name brand" bit..

mac

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What size stuff are you drilling into, Bill?

Small enough to chuck in the lathe, or larger?

mac

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A range of about 4" to 6" for use with those tiny little oil lamps.

Bill

Ok... too big for the lathe unless you have a real big chuck.. *g*

I usually use the center finder and punch on 'em (you probably have done that already) and put a bar clamp on them, then clamp the bar clamp to the DP table with spring clamps..

mac

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