Musing about the Tormek. Is there is an adequate substitute?

We mostly agree that our turning tool's edges ought to be sharp and without serrations, the bevels smooth and even. We do not all agree on how sharp, how smooth and in what form the edge and bevel should be. Furthermore, the ways and means we woodturners use to sharpen tool edges and smooth their bevels are not agreed on at all, to put it mildly. :)

In my simple view, (ignoring grinding) sharpening is a sort of continuum of whetting > honing > stropping > buffing/polishing. Where we woodturners stop off in the sequence varies, but whether necessary or not, isn't a well honed and polished tool edge that's not friable a good thing? A soft, fine grained, lubricated abrasive moving smoothly and slowly away from an edge fixed in the desired geometry should be good for doing this and the Tormek seems ideal. Except that it's not affordable for every turner, and that's a formidable exception regardless of what you count important.

I don't read the Tormek users group and I don't own a tormek, but I wonder if more affordable devices have been purpose made in some of your shops. I've run a dry 120 grit stone slowly backward. I've run an old motorized true wet grindstone. I've run wooden wheels and discs charged with emery cake, I've run rubberised wheels and I've rubbed tool edges on surface plates smeared with diamond dust. None made an edge that cut my finger like a gouge sharpened on a friend's Tormek.

What makes the Tormek so special and so well thought of by so many of us? Have any of you made something that's 'just as good' for private use? I don't mean knockoffs or plagiaries. Is there no substitute for a Tormek?

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

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Arch
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The Woodcut Trugrind is an affordable option. The toolholder may look simalar to the tormek but has the capability to hold tools small to large. The unique design has a US patent, It can be seen working on the link below. We also offer personal support if needed, Ken Port designer

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Reply to
Woodcut tools 2000 Ltd sales

That's the acid test for any sharpening system.........how well a sharpened tool cuts your finger........or other appendage...............:-) Barry

PS No, I haven't tried to make any shop version of the Tormek. I seem to do okay with a slow-speed grinder and Wolverine attachment. (My tools cut my fingers just fine!)

Reply to
Barry N. Turner

(Just don't look at the "smooth, non-serrated" edge with a microscope ;-))

A large number of woodturners at a New Hampshire symposium a few years back were having a grand old cheap time with belt sanders mounted so the belts ran up and AlZn belts. I keep dropping my tuit before I take all the corners off, but have used the same trick on my unmodified belt sander by laying it flat and standing on the end it runs away from. Works nicely - quick and cool. Clean out _all_ sawdust before trying this trick on a belt sander that ever sees wood...

Naturally, you gould get a "real" belt grinder, or you could screw around for several years (when most of your time to work on such things is taken up trying to get the new shop building done) on a homemade version. I've taken the latter course, obviously.

Reply to
Ecnerwal

Gee Arch if all you want to do is cut your fingers well, I can point you to a source for stainless scalpels a whole lot cheaper than a Tormek. In fact, I think you'd run out of fingers before you'd run out of budget. :o)

Reply to
Lobby Dosser

I have one of the Tormek systems, and it sits unused in a dusty corner of my shop. For the amount of turning and sharpening that I do, it doesn't work for me. The wheel is too soft, and I spent more time dressing the wheel than sharpening. A wheel would last me a month or two at most. CBN (carbon boron nitride) wheels are my preference. They are made to order, in any grit you want. I have an 80 grit for scrapers, and a 320 grit for my gouges and skews. After a year and a half, I have worn away about half of the 3/16 inch bond of CBN on the wheel (8 by 1 inch wheel). At $300 per wheel, it is a bargain, not to mention that my gouges last much longer. I don't think that the 320 grit sharpened gouge cuts me any better than a 125 grit sharpened gouge, but it does do a much cleaner job of cutting the wood. robo hippy

Ecnerwal wrote:

Reply to
robo hippy

That was Jon Siegel's influence. Take a look at his site,

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, for a picture of the unit he makes. The advantage is that it offers fixed positions for the tool handle, so that hardly any metal is removed in each sharpening. Jon says it takes him 10 seconds to sharpen, say, a roughing gouge and get back to work, with so little loss of metal that he gets something like 1000 sharpenings per inch of tool. I've seen him do it. The time is certainly close enough to right, and I believe the number of sharpenings as well. I'd be using a similar device now, but shortly after that visit to his shop, I stopped turning for a while and am only getting back to it now. ASAP.Owen Davies

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Owen Davies

Reply to
Bruce Barnett

Hi Folks,

I bought Jon's system years ago and added a fixture (which Jon now can provide) to use the Packard gouge holder to sharpen bowl gouges. I sharpen

2 bowl gouges and a parting tool with a custom shape in around two minutes Resharpening just a bowl gouge for finish cutting takes 20 seconds or so, which includes inserting the gouge into the Packard holder with a stop jig to ensure the identical extension from the jig each time I sharpen.

I really started to be able to focus on turning the shapes I wanted once I had Jon's system and it has made me much more productive.

George

Reply to
George Saridakis

Sigh...I know how frustrating it can be to have an annoying and useless waste of cash around. Tell you what...I will give you $150 plus shipping to take it off your hands Regards and best wishes for the Easter Holiday. Dave Mundt

Reply to
Dave Mundt

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