my recent activity

Briefly, I've been using a lathe to make sawdust for 40 years. I'm right-handed. I use scraping tools, but have some facility with spindle and bowl gouges, and a hook. I make some of my own tools. The skew has always been my nemesis. Assorted arguments aside, regarding the pros and cons of the skew, I decided to start practicing with a couple of new skew chisels and alternating left and right hand techniques. I have scrap softwood material, mainly 2x4 stuff and have decided to start out on this stock and just the skew chisels - a 1 inch standard skew, and a

3/4 inch oval cross-section skew. The oval skew has a significantly flatter bevel grind than the standard skew has. I'm starting with turning a basic cylinder from square stock. I'm also working on simple symmetrical beads of assorted sizes. Attempts at coves have been unsatisfying so far. I'm using both chisels, trying to learn the differences between them, and also working on left-handed stances to complement my usual right-handed stances. On the basic cylindrical project, I am noticing very smooth surfaces on about half the cylinder circumference and less smooth on the other half of the circumference. I believe this to be perfectly analogous to the surface quality of a planed board edge when going the "right" direction or the "wrong" direction with the plane. In addition, the circularity of the cylinder is affected by the alternating hard and soft grain in the wood. Coves are the worst for me, so far. With no place for the bevel to rub, a nice spiral catch is almost always the result, unless I make a small notch first, to start my efforts. Somewhat similar to my turning a bowl, I must start with a small scraped notch at the rim, so there is a place for me to start the gouge. None of these remarks is a complaint, just observations of my early efforts in retraining myself. I am continuing to study assorted videos for technique, as I become more aware of what my questions are. A turning club is out of the question in a mainly rural area like mine. The turning season is upon me, as my outdoor pursuits wind down, and so this is what I am doing for now.

Just wanted to post this, as the board seemed pretty quiet except for the odd spammers. Maybe new turners monitoring this board will be encouraged to continue their learning, cuz an old fart is still trying and making his messes.

tom koehler

Reply to
tom koehler
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Good to hear from you. I also have a couple of skews, oval and flat. I also need to learn how to use them, but never have. Right now I am turning tree ornaments using a spindle gouge to round the blank then a bowl gouge to do the shaping.

Reply to
G. Ross

Welcome to the World of the Skew Tom,

My first observation is that 2X4 wood is not a good wood to practice turning with the skew, or really with any tool. Maple, Elm, fruit woods, etc are much better for practice. Secondly, the skew must be razor sharp to do the best turning. You should hone the edge until it is razor sharp, i.e., will shave the hair on your arm.

For initial practice, I recommend a short piece of timber, say less than 12 inches long. This way there is no chance for the wood to bow slightly as you near the center portion of the wood. Forget trying to cut coves with a skew unless they are very wide and shallow.

To make beads, cut a small groove on each side of the bead to be, actually, I like a small V-groove made by cutting from each side to the center of the groove. Then mark the center of the space between the two grooves. Using the heel of the skew, and placing the shaft vertical to the wood just to the left of the mark and rotate the skew with your right hand. The skew should then cut directly down into the groove. At first it may take several cuts to complete this. The flip the skew 180 degrees and make the same cut on the other side of the line. Do a few hundred of these and it suddenly becomes easy.

I also recommend with planing cuts that the tool be at 90 degrees to the wood being cut. The slant of the cutting edge will give you the angle you need to cut. This should be done with the heel down and always cut below 1/2 way of the edge.

Then practice, practice, practice until it all becomes automatic. For spindle turning, the skew is my main tool. But for coves, a spindle gouge is the tool to use.

Fred Holder

Reply to
Fred Holder

On Thu, 25 Oct 2012 17:25:40 -0500, Fred Holder wrote (in message ):

well, yeah, it is not the best, but it is a good place to start, for me. it is available and cheap, and I do actually make some stuff from pine and spruce and fir. I do get a chance to see just what the tool does. Kind of like the very wide lined paper we used in first grade when learning to print with the big fat pencil. Will move on to some hard wood after a few more board feet of pine have been reduced. (grin)

\Maple, Elm, fruit

I do appreciate a nice sharp edge and am attending to this with the equipment I have. Am using the same sharpness criterion that I use on my gouges and hook.

we are on the same page here. This also meshes nicely with my inner cheapskate Forget trying to

well, this is a relief, thanks! I thought I was being very stupid and clumsy with my initial efforts on this. I do have a couple of nice spindle gouges to experiment with. Thanks for this tip.

I am working on this process now. Am also working on trying this with left-handed and right-handed stances, to see if ambidexterity will help me avoid awkward body positioning on half of the bead work. Since I have almost no habitual body mechanics with the skew, learning a left-handed stance is turning out to be no harder than learning the right-handed stance.

I am also working on this

Fred, thanks for your generous remarks and tips.

I have a wood burning stove in the living room, and I keep it supplied with kindling. SWMBO likes the shavings, especially from bowl work, for mulching her garden.

tom koehler

Reply to
tom koehler

On Thu, 25 Oct 2012 15:04:55 -0500, G. Ross wrote (in message ):

Thanks for your response, G.R. In the early stages of your ornament work, could I encourage you to try the skews for rounding your blanks? At that stage, there are no mistakes, and you will start learning about those chisels that are just colleting dust instead of making shavings. being lighthearted here, and trying to encourage you to stretch a little. (smiling, now) tom koehler

Reply to
tom koehler

Hey, Tom... Long time no type... Confession time: After buying 2 dvds and taking a class I got pretty good with a skew and could even get lucky and get a good edge on it once in a while, and now I almost never use one... I do very little spindle work, and when I do I find that instead of a skew now my "go to" tool is usually the Woodchuck Bowl Pro..

I could NEVER get as good an edge on a skew as the carbide insert has, or the precision...

With practice and a light touch, you can sstart sanding with 240 or

320 grit instead of the "80 grit gouge".. Do a good turn for me, amigo..

Reply to
Mac Davis

On Fri, 26 Oct 2012 1:29:19 -0500, Mac Davis wrote (in message ):

Thanks for your response, Mac. Part of my interest in the skew is one of traditionalism and part of it is a control issue. In an earlier era, the skew was the chief tool in turning, even though it took more training and practice than scrapers. I feel that the skew is a tool I need to learn to use, but I am not going to abandon the use of scrapers, either. In the matter of control, I can control the quality of the cutting edge on the skew, but can not control the quality of the cutting edge with a carbide lathe tool, and when it goes bad I have to buy another one. I do use carbide router bits, but I also have the ability to resharpen them if need be... ditto for my carbide tipped circular saw blades. For me, turning is more craft than art, and I want to develop a certain skill set, which includes the skew.

Please know that I am not disagreeing with you. I'm just trying to show where my head is at, right now, and what works for me. tom koehler

Reply to
tom koehler

I agree with you completely, Tom... When I teach, the student masters the roughing gouge, bowl gouge and scraper before touching a carbide tool.. I feel that if you know what all the traditional tools feel and sound like, and what each one can and can't do, then you're ready to use carbide to take the place of some turning jobs... Much the same as I believe that the more you know about a car, the better understanding you'll have when driving it... People that have done a brake job use the brake pedal a little differently, etc...

Another tool I like is the Versa chisel:

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Sort of a combo skew/gouge/scraper, it takes a bit of practice but it's a great tool for spindle work and for the outside of bowls and cups..

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Mac Davis

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Larry Blanchard

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Mac Davis

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