Nova faceplate rings?

In message , mac davis writes

I almost always use them with my Axminster chuck a nice quick way of allowing you to cut a dovetail the other side of the blank. I have 3 different sizes, which saves time in not having to change chuck etc.

One important point is to use suitable length screws for the size piece. And even more important is the screw head size, which is often relative to screw size. It MUST NOT protrude from the ring as the ring face mates flat to the chuck face.

I just used a 2 inch ring to rough a 12in sq. x 5in out of balance square. One side of the blank was tapered so I spaced the ring using washers to even it up.

In many cases you can get away with only 3 screws in triangle layout, which can help if one or two have trouble retaining

As to what they work on. All you need to know is the dovetail widest diameter when the chuck is set to correctly round and angle of dovetail.

For reference in the UK Axminster provide the following. Size is widest internal diameter

So it maybe a case of finding a suitable match to your jaws, or have a local engineer turn one for you

I guess I don't get it - why would you pay more for a faceplate ring than a faceplate? these things are very much not inexpensive.

Thanks, John..

I was interested in the 0nes for the Nova 50mm jaws, which I figure is about

My concern was that Nova talks about a dovetail and Oneway talks about straight sides.. I think I'll risk $20 plus shipping and try one, if it works, I'll get 2 or 3 more..

mac

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I have a Nova for my lathe - bought it years ago when new. Ordered all I could find and took a time to fill the order. One of them was straight for inserting into deep holes (as I recall.)

I don't know Oneway - perhaps they use drilled or bored holes instead of a dovetail foot in a bowl. Spindles vs. bowls ? maybe ?

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.

mac davis wrote:

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Hi Mac I would get the dovetail jaws from Oneway for your chuck, if you want to use these rings. It would be good to have those jaws anyway, and if you get them at the same time it would save you postal cost. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Might be a good idea, Leo.. I think I'll try one ring and see..

Then, if it works, I'll order more, if not, I'll consider the other jaws for the talons..

I'm actually considering getting a super Nova for a 3rd chuck, but not sure.. If I do, it will have to wait until the snow birds come back, times are tight here right now..

mac

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In message , mac davis writes

Mac

The most important thing to remember is not what the jaws can expand to, but what their natural radius is, if you have to expand past their natural radius to get a grip on the ring, then you only have 4 contact points. With the natural radius, its the full circumference in contact. I had a look at the jaws you mentioned but couldn't find detailed dimensions

If they are straight sided I assume it would have less retention than dovetail, unless there is a lip on the jaws? But the rule above still applies

If you plan to use it to start bowls, Here's what I do. I used to use faceplates, now I just drill a 1 1/8 hole about an inch deep and use the nova "pin chuck" in it. It is just like a regular chuck only 1 inch in diameter and about an inch long. I just stick the blank on this and use the tailstock if the blank is big and irregular. I shape the outside, back off the tailstock and cut a dovetail foot. Then change chucks and turn the blank around and do the inside. If it is a huge blank I can still support it with the tailstock with a cone tip that fits into the 1 inch hole.

When I use a ring, I do so to save time and chuck swapping. The ring is designed with the same dovetail as the chuck, and hence the dovetail you will cut. So no need to change chucks. Just screw the plate in place and mount to chuck. Do any shaping and Cut the dovetail remove from chuck, remove ring. Reverse the piece and mount on cut dovetail ( or in my case mount on cut dovetail then unscrew)

I just wanted to get away from screwing.

In message , Gerald Ross writes

What you need is a localised force field generator, used to retain the blank in place against a face plate. :)

My main concern is jaw shape, and looking at Talon info on the web, it mentions dovetail, so it should work fine..

mac

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More for large vases and things like that, Gerald... From what I see in the woodcraft catalog, the Nova pin chuck jaws are pretty much the same as the oneway "spigot jaws".. Not wanting to drill a large diameter hole, I usually drill a small hole 3/4" deep and use the chuck screw and tailstock to hold the piece until I get a tenon on the work to hold in the chuck jaws..

What I'm looking for is more stability AFTER the vase is reversed, so that if/when I get a little catch, I don't have to re-center the piece in the chuck jaws.. I'm thinking that in some cases, I'd start in my normal way, but instead of making a tenon, making a good firm seating for the faceplate ring..

Or, I could just get better at my hollowing and not need it.. lol

mac

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Yeah.. that's my goal, and also to be able to take a piece off the lathe and be able to re-mount in the chuck and not have to re-true the work..

On most of the stuff that I'm thinking of using the rings for, I'm including the tenon in the "waste end" near the chuck right now, which will be parted off before being reversed to clean up the bottom..

mac

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I can't remember ever having that desire..

OH! We're talking about wood turning...

mac

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Hey Mac, While you are figuring out how to remount a blank without having to retrue it why not work on an easier problem; perpetual motion? :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

Hi John If you want to save time, maybe you should use a woodworm screw in your chuck, all it takes to mound your wood is a 3/8" drilled hole

te:

Mac I don't belief you would gain anything with using a ring over a faceplate, but if you are hollowing deeper than a few inches I would suggest you build yourself a steady-rest, or purchase one, just my way of looking at it.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

In message , " snipped-for-privacy@rogers.com" writes

Hi Leo, I have looked at them before, but because I tend to use small jaws for much of my work, it isn't an option, Now on the bigger jaws there is one I could use. I must say though I d cheat with the rings, I have a cordless drill/driver fitted with a T10 or T15 Torx drive ( depending on plate and screws), as I use self tapping Torx screw for retaining the ring. Takes about 30 seconds to tighten :)