Opinions on Nova DVR XP

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I have owned a couple belt drive lathes, one reeves drive and one  
variable drive. As they get more use vibration has been a problem.
I have replaced the belts.

So my question, is the Nova DVD really vibration free and is the
motor/computer  reliable?

Thanks to all that respond.

L Bledsoe

Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP
Q47m wrote:
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I have had mine 2 or 3 years. I has been a world of difference from  
the reeves drive machine I had. Quiet, vibration free, true variable  
speed. Never any problem. I did wire in a remote stop button.

--  
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

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Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP
The vibration can come from a lot of different things. Personally, I
wouldn't have a reeves drive. They always seem to go out or whack. I
have a little experience on a DC motor which is variable speed, and a
lot of esperience on the 3 phase variable speed lathes (8 years on a
PM 3520A and a year on a Robust). I will get to turn on a Nova DVR
next month at our local club meeting. By all accounts I have read, it
is a fine lathe. There is only one thing I don't like about it from
seeing it, and that is the bed sits almost flat on the lathe stand.
There is no room to scoop out shavings that fall inbetween the ways. I
do prefer a sliding headstock to a pivoting one though. Just more
sturdy. I don't think that the belt is usually a contributer to the
vibrations. Usually, sticking out too far, turning too fast with an
unblanced piece of wood, a flimsy, light weight lathe stand, and worn
bearings are the main culprits.
robo hippy

Gerald Ross wrote:
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Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP

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I've the DVR XP for a while.. Probably done 200 pieces on it, several of them
pushing the edge towards abuse..
The motor is amazing... Smooth, very quiet and has great torque at all speeds..
The computer that monitors the spindle is incredible... Keeps rpm constant under
load, 3 adjustments for how much of a catch you need to stop the spindle, etc..
I've pushed the limits several times and got what would have been a bad catch on
other lathes.. and all it did was stop the lathe..
Another nice feature of the spindle monitoring is that when it detects a catch
and turns off the power, the spindle then free wheels, so it stops quickly..

Compared to my Jet 1442 with Reeves drive, it's about 10 times smoother and
quieter..
It's very energy efficient and has enough power for me to not convert it to 220v
for the extra 1/4 hp it claims..
Also, your warranty is void if you don't use a surge suppressor and 220v
suppressors are out of my price range..

As Reed said, Reeves drives are problematic.. I was always adjusting, fixing or
just putting up with small problems on the Jet..

Vibration?
The Nova vibrated at certain speeds, but not nearly as much as either of my jet
lathes, which I was very happy with until I got the Nova..
The up & down arrows that adjust the speed by 5 rpm let you find the best speed
for whatever you're doing, allowing you to eliminate a lot of vibration..

My mistake in buying the xp was in getting the "Universal stand"
IMHO, it's a piece of crap and not worthy of such a nice lathe..
I should have bought the cast iron legs, but that would have taken another 4 or
6 weeks to ship and I WANTED the damn lathe ASAP..

I didn't opt for the bed extension, so maybe that contributes to the stand
vibrating, but it's very annoying.. It buzzes and clanks and since I hang a lot
of stuff on magnets, such as the chuck key, it clangs like hell if I don't ease
them onto the magnet..
IMO, there's no substitute for cast iron for absorbing vibration..

Would I spend $2,000 for this lathe again?
In a heartbeat.. YMWV


mac

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Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP
mac davis wrote:
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I've had an original DVR and I really like it but there are a few things  
to note -

- the computer control is ok but it it's annoying to have to sit there  
holding the speed up/down buttons to go from one end of the range to the  
other (eg when going from drilling or sanding at low speed to turning at  
much higher speeds). I understand that the DVR XP allows you to program  
5 preset speeds though, so this won't be as much of a problem.
I'd prefer it if the control panel had a large, raised stop button in  
case of emergencies.

- if something goes wrong with the headstock it's possibly going to be  
something you can't fix yourself. I've had to send my headstock away for  
repair once before and I'm again getting an error state message on the  
console (which you should be able to fix by getting rid of dust around  
the spindle speed sensor, but I tried that yesterday and it didn't fix it).

One good feature of the lathe is that if you open up the control panel  
you can fit a home-made break out box which gives you access to all the  
controls when eg. the headstock is rotated or when you're hollowing a  
large vessel and you don't want to have to reach round for the controls.  
  I've heard that Teknatool are working on their own (wireless?) remote  
but have heard nothing from them about this in the last year.

As for vibration - I've never really used any other lathe so I can't say  
if it's more or less than normal. There are a couple of locations in the  
speed range where there's some vibration even with the lathe running  
without a load, but 5 or 10 rpm either side it's fine.

We have an original DVR for our club lathe at it always performs well.

If you're not aware - there's a yahoo group at  
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/teknatool/ and a my family group (I think  
you need an invite for this, but just ask if you want one).

Hope that helps

Duncan

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Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP
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  Even the Cutler-Hammer protector (mounts on a breaker box) costs
less than $50 in Lowes.

Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP

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translation please,
Is that a 220v surge protector?


mac

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Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP
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  Yes.  Of course.  One surge protector for everything including the
dishwasher and your 240 VAC air conditioner. Those also need
protection.  "220 volt" protection means one protector for everything
- 120 volt and 240 volts appliances.

Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP

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Wow..very cool...
We have a lot of small power fluctuations here and have surge protectors on most
things..That sounds like a much better way to go!
Thanks..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP
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  Small power fluctuations are ignored by every surge protector AND
are made completely irrelevant by protection inside every appliance.
Get specs for each protector.  Not the color glossy sales brochure.
What are numbers for each type of surge? Notice the let-through
voltage:  330 volts.   Minor voltage fluctuations never get to 330
volts.

  Notice a severe shortage of facts in many protector specifications.
It does not do the many things they got you to believe in a sales
brochure.  Brochures make many half truth claims.

  Protectors are for making even direct lightning strikes irrelevant.
Any protector that fails even during a direct lightning strike was not
effective.  Protectors for direct lightning are also for lesser
transients.  So that transients do not overwhelm protection found
inside every appliance.  That is what the one 'whole house' protectors
does.  But only more responsible manufacturers sell 'whole house'
protectors.

  As true for every protector, it will only be as effective as the
quality of and distance to its earthing electrode.  Just another
reason why that Cutler-Hammer product sold in Lowes for less than $50
is so effective.  An effective protector means protection for all 120
and 240 volt appliances.

Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP
westom wrote:
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The best information on surges and surge protection I have seen is at:
<http://www.mikeholt.com/files/PDF/LightningGuide_FINALpublishedversion_May051.pdf
- "How to protect your house and its contents from lightning: IEEE guide  
for surge protection of equipment connected to AC power and  
communication circuits"  published by the IEEE in 2005 (the IEEE is the  
major organization of electrical and electronic engineers in the US).
And also:
<http://www.nist.gov/public_affairs/practiceguides/surgesfnl.pdf
- "NIST recommended practice guide: Surges Happen!: how to protect the  
appliances in your home"  published by the US National Institute of  
Standards and Technology in 2001

The IEEE guide is aimed at those with some technical background. The  
NIST guide is aimed at the unwashed masses.

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Service panel suppressors are a good idea.
But from the NIST guide:
"Q - Will a surge protector installed at the service entrance be  
sufficient for the whole house?
A - There are two answers to than question: Yes for one-link appliances  
[electronic equipment], No for two-link appliances [equipment connected  
to power AND phone or cable or....]. Since most homes today have some  
kind of two-link appliances, the prudent answer to the question would be  
NO - but that does not mean that a surge protector installed at the  
service entrance is useless."

The NIST guide suggests most equipment damage is from high voltage  
between power and phone/cable wires. That is primarily computers (with  
phone connection) and TV/related equipment (with cable connection).

Service panel suppressors do not prevent high voltages from developing  
between power and signal wires. To limit the voltage you need a *short*  
wire connecting the cable/phone entrance protectors to the "ground" at  
the power service. A ground wire that is too long is illustrated in the  
IEEE guide starting pdf page 40.

For equipment with just power connections, like a lathe, a service panel  
suppressor should provide good protection.

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Most "responsible manufacturers" that make service panel suppressors  
also make plug-in suppressors.

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w   believes that surge protection must directly use earthing. Thus in  
his view plug-in suppressors (which are not well earthed) can not  
possibly work. The IEEE guide explains plug-in suppressors work by  
clamping (limiting) the voltage on all wires (signal and power) to the  
common ground at the suppressor. Plug-in suppressors do not work  
primarily by earthing (or stopping or absorbing). The guide explains  
earthing occurs elsewhere. (Read the guide starting pdf page 40).

Note that if you are using a plug-in suppressor, all interconnected  
equipment needs to be connected to the same suppressor. External  
connections, like phone, also need to go through the suppressor.  
Connecting all wiring through the suppressor prevents damaging voltages  
between power and signal wires.

w  is a well know internet nut that searches  google-groups for "surge"  
to post his beliefs. Some of what he says is very good. Some is nonsense.

Both the IEEE and NIST guides say plug-in suppressors are effective.

--  
bud--



Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP
I owned a DVR for about 5 years.  Great lathe.  The headstock is well
built and, without any load, it did not vibrate.  But I did get some
vibration from the DVR lathe at certain speeds and certain
situations.  This was more a problem with the stand that I used and
not the headstock (I used the sheet metal stand made by Nova).  I also
had trouble with any piece of wood that was large and/or the least bit
out of round.  That is because the machine was not heavy enough for
what I was trying to turn.

I now own a Oneway 2436.  I has a belt drive and again, when spinning
without a load there is absolutely no vibraton.  It is 900 pounds as
opposed to the DVR's 200 lb.  Even though I don't get anywhere near
the vibration problems with the Oneway, with large and/or out of round
logs the fact is vibrations can still be a problem - even with a 900
lb gorilla.

With any lathe their seems to be some RPM's that you will get a
vibration depending on the load and situation.  The point is that your
problem is likely more about what you are turning and not a problem
with the DVR.

Ted J.

Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP
Q47m wrote:

Thanks for all the helpful information. Now that Woodcraft has the the  
lathe on sale for $1699, I think I'll take the plunge.

Thanks again,

L Bledsoe

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Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP

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A couple more points. The through head is nice for vacuum chucking, but  
the factory vacuum adapter prevents the use of the factory knock-out  
bar. The "motor stall" on a hard catch is nice, and you can adjust how  
hard the stall has to be to stop the lathe (I have left mine at factory).

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Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP

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Funny that you mention that, Ralph...
I didn't realize that since I don't use the Nova bar...  
I didn't like the "no-knob" design and use the rod from my Jet 1442, so I never
realized that the one for the lathe didn't fit... must be a smaller diameter..

BTW: I use the vac adapter a lot, but with plastic hose to the vac pump, not a
shop vac as it was apparently designed for.. YMWV


mac

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Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP
mac davis wrote:
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I epoxied an air hose quick-connect into the bearing on mine, and the  
knockout bar won't go through that for certain. :>)
--  
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

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Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP

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Good point.. I've never used a knockout bar when the vac adapter is on, not only
because of the hose, but what would I knock out??
I guess some folks leave the adapter on all the time?


mac

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Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP
Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
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The vacuum adapter can be quickly removed by loosening one setscrew. I  
keep the allen wrench for it stuck to a magnet on the motor housing

--  
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

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Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP


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I'm a bit worried about magnets near the computer, so all my stuff like that is
on magnets on the stand or bed rails..
My adapter hangs on my DC hose and the wrench & set screw are on a magnet..

Have you heard anything about Nova developing a remote switch like you made?
The more "sit down hollowing" I do, the more I'd like to not have to reach over
a spinning chunk of wood to turn the lathe off...


mac

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Re: Opinions on Nova DVR XP
mac davis wrote:
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Despite having made one for myself (and it working well), I've contacted  
Teknatool several times in the past about the possibility of them  
producing their own.
When I last asked them about it (early 2007) there was one mentioned on  
the website, but I've had a quick look and couldn't find it. At the time  
they told me that it was a work in progress and almost ready.
When I didn't hear anything further I gave up asking. I vaguely remember  
reading somewhere that it was going to be wireless - which would be  
nice, but probably expensive.
If you have some basic soldering skills the DIY version is relatively  
easy to make but it involves opening up the control box and  
unplugging/plugging cables. When I was building mine I got connections  
the wrong way round and it didn't do any damage (maybe I was lucky).

I've mailed them a couple of times about a possible upgrade from my  
DVR3000 to the DVRXP control software/board (to give me access to the  
new functions). I haven't had any response yet.

Duncan

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