segment ring question

I will bet cross grain tearout will be an issue.

A glued-up ring is very fragile, because all the glue joints are end-grain joints.. I would think it would explode in a planer, but I've never tried it myself. I use a 12" disk sander (on the lathe) to true one face, then true the other, after it's glued on, with a gouge.

My brother runs his through his planer, on a sled, AFAIK.. If you'd like more info, send me an email and I'll send you his addy..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I wouldn't try it. If you have a drill press take a look at the "Safety Planer":

I've researched this a bit. Beside the fragility and tearout issues there is the problem of snipe unless passed through on a sled of some kind. The other major problem for me was that either a planer or sander was high cost. I can't justify $500 for the amount I would use the tool.

I've used a 3/4" router mortising bit in the drill press and the safety planer and both work acceptably, if a bit slow. The solution I finally came up with works wonderfully well and is fast. I mount the ring in my Cole jaws, true one side, flip it and true the other. Sometimes I true only the first side then wait till it's glued up and then true the other.

Hi Jerry, The best way to flatten rings is with a performax. I've seen plans on the net for building one. Next best would be a disc sander. That works well but you can't get an even thickness unless your very careful. Before I had a performax I used to flatten rings with a 12" disc stuck to a piece of countertop. This method is slow but it works fine. I've also glued the ring to a plywood disk mounted on a faceplate and trued them on the lathe. Just start with a thicker ring. I tried the planer method but that didn't work well at all. Lots of tearout. Bob

I use a 24" disc sander on my lathe.... Would be using a wide belt or drum sander if I had one big enough. (Have some materials to make a 48" drum, but don't have the time to dedicate to making another machine right now, especially with the issues of designing a decent power feed.) However, trying to keep my eyes open for a wide drum or belt sander in my area... (Not much of that sort of thing surfaces in Hawaii...)

-_Rick

Hi Jerry I would use a sander, I have a link here for a V-drum sander you can build yourself, pretty low cost and works very well. These people do the wood shows and have sold these sanders for years, also a good place for abrasives. No affiliation, just good products and service.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Thanks for the info.

It gave me a great idea,now where is that rolling pin & old tread mill the old lady doesn't use any more. I see a new tool for the work bench !!!!

Jr.

That's what I use (the sander)

I've always wanted to try that, but believe that it would wouldn't work in a particularly spectacular way. So, if you do decide to try it, grab your camcorder and post a video to youtube so we can all enjoy the excitement from the safety of this side of a computer monitor. :-)

I've long wished I had one of those benchtop drum sanders for just such a task. I true up the rings on the lathe which does OK, but it would be nice to have a drum sander to do a final pass with like this one:

Just can't justify the $540. Not that that ever stopped me before. Hmmm, where's that checkbook? ...Kevin

I actually sanded the edges of a 19-sided glued cylinder today. I clamped my belt sander upside down on the bench and sanded to the carefully drawn ring I pencilled around it. It worked nicely.

- Owen -