Source for 3" H&L sanding disk gizmo/backing pad

1. Was it
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   He is a nice guy and the discs are ok but the ones I got were not color coded and did not have the grit number on the back so was easy to mix them up. After shopping around for a few years I have settled on Klingspor disks. 2. Yes
2. No

1. Yes. Keep an air gun nearby, stop sanding frequently and cool the disk with the compressed air. Sand at 200 rpm or the nearest you can get. I have a supply of industrial hook and loop strips. If I burn the hooks off I just sand them off on my big disk sander and glue on another layer. But I am always working on the interface pad, not the original H&L on the disk mandrel.

Probably - get a can of paste wax (I'm using Minwax currently) and wipe it onto the bowl w/a paper towel before sanding w/your coarsest grit. It softens the wood slightly, allowing you to quickly deal w/the tearout in short order. With the wax on there, sanding is much cooler. All the wax will be sanded off before you get to the finishing stage.

Having one of the crepe rubber sandpaper cleaners is handy for cleaning up the sandpaper a bit. Usually one can flick the wax/sawdust mix off pretty well though.

HTH...

...Kevin

Thanks, That's the one... I've sent him an order.

-Steve

Thanks, I'll have to try that.

-Steve

1. Was it
   formatting link
   He is a nice guy and the discs are ok but the ones I got were not color coded and did not have the grit number on the back so was easy to mix them up. After shopping around for a few years I have settled on Klingspor disks. 2. Yes
2. No

1. Yes. Keep an air gun nearby, stop sanding frequently and cool the disk with the compressed air. Sand at 200 rpm or the nearest you can get. I have a supply of industrial hook and loop strips. If I burn the hooks off I just sand them off on my big disk sander and glue on another layer. But I am always working on the interface pad, not the original H&L on the disk mandrel.

Thought I sent this earlier, but it never showed up.

The discs from Vince outlast anything I have used about 2 to 1.

If you are having problems with frying the hooks, then you are sanding at too high of a speed, and using too much pressure. Are you using a power sanding system, like a drill? I have a piece of 1/4 inch cork under my trigger to keep the speed down. Sanding with the drill and lathe at slower speeds does a much better job, and doesn't take any more time. It also reduces the heat factor which can cause cracks in the wood as well as delaminating the loop backing on the discs, and melting the hooks, and I found this all out by experience before any one told me about it.

I do use the interface pads as they are cheaper than buying a new mandril. I keep my discs in pigeon holes to keep them organized. Most abrasive companies will have numbers on most of the discs. I used to cut my own, and had my daughter write the grit numbers on the discs for 1 penny per disc. She loved it. I do keep the rubber eraser sticks handy, and use them frequently.

As far as the tearout goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Of course, keep your tools sharp. Dry wood will tear out more than wet wood. Some woods will tear more than others. If you are getting tear out, especially on dry wood, wet the wood with water or finish oil, let it soak in for 60 seconds or so, and then make very light cuts with a freshly sharpened tool to turn off all the wet stuff. This can take a couple of applications to get rid of most of the tearout. Finish cuts also make a difference. A finish cut is VERY LIGHT where you get only whispy shavings. They are done at a shear angle of 45 degrees or more. On the outside, a gouge with the handle low, and using the wings of the gouge works fine. This is usually a pulling cut (pulling the gouge towards you), and is not a stock removal cut. It is used to smooth out any uneveness on the surface, and will take several passes to touch up things. A scraper also works well here, on a 45 degree angle, not held flat. It is more difficult on the inside of the bowl. Here, I prefer a scraper (I am a bit unusual in this preference), again at a 45 degree angle, and a gentle pull cut (almost impossible to do as a push cut). Be careful near the rim, as it will vibrate, and you may need to do it in steps as you finish turn: turn down to finish thickness about 1 to 2 inches, finish shear cut, then go down another 1 to 2 inches, finish shear cut, etc till you get to the bottom. You will get better with practice.

robo hippy

On Mar 5, 7:57 am, Gerald Ross wrote:

Steve I do not know if this can be of any help to you but this is the way I do my sanding. I buy cloth backed sandpaper in 50 meter rolls 100 mm wide, I make my own sanding disks from lagbolts and a piece of 8 mm plywood with a 15 mm thick relatively hard foam rubberpiece glued on.On the rubber I glue on a leather disc, the glue I use is contact cement. The sandpaper is attached to the sanding pad using hot melt glue. When I need to change sandpaper I just increase the pressure on the drill so the sandpaper is heated up till I can remove the old paper and put a new on. By the way, I am a produktion turner(non artistic) so I mostly turns batches, the last one was 40 small bowls for a museum shop. In order to speed up things I use three drills with 100-120 and 150 grit sandpapers, in that way I do not need to change papers so often. After sanding I polish the bowls using steel-wool 000. Kurt

I keep my H&L discs on Velcro strips on the wall, one strip per grit.. Very handy..

I REALLY like peel & Stick for the heavy sanding... Combined with the 3M ceramic discs it's an awesome system for my stuff.. The ceramic lasts forever and I don't worry about abusing H&L... I use a separate, color coded, H&L mandrel for them and have a H&L/PSA adapter for each grit... (adapters are only $2 each)

I've really slowed down my sanding speed, both on the lathe and the drill.. Paper and pads last longer, the wood doesn't burn, etc..

mac

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