Termite hollowing Tool

Well it does take some getting use to. First you should start your cut with the ring like this I not like this O then slowly rotate the tool clockwise until it cuts. Don't use a death grip on the handle so if there is a potential for a snag then the tool will rotate and release Tool rest should be about 1" away from the piece and set level with or slightly above centre. Cut below centre like a scraper. Use slow speed around 300rpm until you get used to the tool. Use the biggest size cutter for a smoother finish I have used mine for endgrain and cross grain hollowing and also for outside shaping on really nasty grain. It works good but like all tools it must be kept sharp (use the supplied jig) and it is all about operator skill so practice, practice, practice, Peter

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Steve... I've never had a catch with mine, maybe I'm just lucky?

The angle is critical.. maybe angle is the wrong word? What I mean is where the bevel/hole are contacting the wood...

The tool doesn't come with much in the way of instructions, but the 2 things that I remember from them that really helped were:

Unlike most chisels, start with the tool rest at least 1 1/2" from the stock... If you're too close, you can/t get the correct angle and will probably bind or catch the tool..

Imagine having an eye in your belly button and looking through the ring... (this would be very height dependent, I think)... if you can see the opening of the ring from above, you have too aggressive an angle and will have problems.. big time.. my guess is that you want to hit the wood at a very slight angle and sort of ride the bevel..

I find that though it's a 2-sided tool, I use it mostly with the set screw "up" where I can see it.... you can't always see the ring or tip to determine angle, but can usually see the set screw...

Play with it laying almost flat on the sides of the hole on the return or outward stroke.... you'll hear the sound change to a sort of "whooshing" noise and get a nice surface.. Mac

Hello Steve,

1) If you read "a little French", you could have a look at Pascal Oudet's website : where there are some photos (international language :-) of how to use this "Lord od the Rings" ... 2) You can also find an article from "New Woodworker" at 3) I have also seen a video from Oneway about how to use it but I can't remember where to find it ... Anyway, have nice shavings :-)

Jean-Yves (from France)

-------- Steven trauthwein a écrit :

Practice inside an open, shallow bowl, where you can see what you are doing. After you get the knack, you will be able to use it with confidence inside a hollow form, by feel and sound. Start by bringing the Termite in contact with the wood in a vertical position. It will not cut. Then rotate it so the cutting edge comes up, and it will reach a position, somewhere around 30 to 45 degrees when it will start taking a nice shaving. It you go too far, approaching horizontal, it will want to catch.

If your lathe is reversible, you can do all this on the back/inside of the bowl, where you can see even better, and where a good toolrest position is easier to achieve.

I agree with you. This tool is virtually impossible to control. I have ruined several pieces trying to get it to work. It's a piece of crap as far as I am concerned and a complete waste of money.

Mister Earl

---- Steven trauthwe> Hello All,

Lots of folks say that about the skew, until they master it... YMWV Mac

"Mister Earl" wrote: (clip) It's a piece of crap as

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Nothing personal intended, but it's a poor mechanic who blames his tools. When I have trouble, I blame myself--and I am usually right.

If you believe what you said, perhaps your best approach is to offer it up to the group - personally, I find it pretty easy to use but ineffective because it cloggs up too easily - and on my termite, at least, the shaft is only about 3/8, so I can't get too far off the tool rest or it vibrates (at about 9 to 10 inchces extended) - still, there are times when it is handy.

hmm... I think I understand most of that....

You might consider using that lacquer outside for a while until the fumes clear, Darrell... *g*

Mac

It's a matter of practice and understanding how the tool cuts. I use ring tools like this all the time because you can remove a huge amount of wood from a hollow vessel extremely fast--faster than any other tool I've tried. If you're ruining pieces, you are most likely trying to cut with the ring facing up instead of the ring (cutting edge) facing horizontal. Either that or you're trying to use it on the outside of your pieces, which is just plain crazy.

It works best if you start it almost in a scraping action and slowly rotate clockwise until the edge is presented to the wood, then remove material in a pulling action, engaging the ring on the ridge that you created and pulling it toward you.

Using it on the bottom of a bowl to remove the nub, or starting a hole for fresh cutting, it's almost better to use it slightly upside-down, undercut the little nub and pop it off.

filling the tool with shavings is the biggest hassle. I tend to use

3/4" and 1" diameter rings to reduce this.

"Steven trauthwein" wrote in news:iaUKg.18825 $ snipped-for-privacy@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:

Steve, I use the Termite exclusively for hollowing boxes and large vases. The largest is one that is currently 26" deep on the inside, rough turned and drying. I use shanks that I make myself. The largest is 57" long, 1" bar telescoping into a 1½" steel tube, which is mounted in a handle. Weighs over 30 pounds, and it is at the max a6 26" deep. I am currently rough turning about 30 12" lidded vases. A friend timed me doing 4 of them, and I was able to rough turn the inside of them in an average of slighly over 4 minutes to a depth of 10 to 11 inches. You can be very, very aggressive if you want, although it takes a lot of practice. Clogging of the hole occurs when the tool is not handled properly. As long as it is cutting, the wood goes through the hole.

UNLESS - you're cutting cross grain. Then it can clog with a long sliver lodging in the hole. It is designed for end grain, but I use it cross grain a fair bit too.

I rarely have a catch, even at that depth. There's a file on my website that you can download with some photos to help explain. Someone mentioned Pascal's file and he basically took mine and added more information and set it out differently. Someone suggested practising on an open bowl first. I agree with that, and make sure it's an end-grain cut.

Here's the link to the file

If I can help by talking you through the process, just email me. snipped-for-privacy@hdv.net And, Earl, if you want to get rid of your Termite cutters let me know. I'd buy them from you.

I find that the more I learn how to use the Termite, the less it clogs up..

OTOH, my Jet 1442 has a couple of threaded holes on the side of the headstock that fit a dowel nicely... it's about 2" long and has a dull point, so I can just press the cutting ring against the dowel tip to clear the shavings.. Mac

I did a lot of research before buying the Termite, and spent a LOT of time at your site, Herman..

I hope that I emailed my thanks at the time, but I want you to know that your site was a great help and I appreciate the time that you've put into it.. THANKS!

Mac