Timber Sealer

TH I prefer Anchorseal. See the site section on turning green wood for some more information.

Thanks Darrell. How long does it usually take to dry out?

-TH >TH

There are commercial end grain sealers available - you can get gallon quantities from several woodworking/woodturning suppliers. If you are somewhat of an occasional user, you might want to consider using paraffin-available at hobby shops (eg Michael's. Hobby Lobby, etc.) which can be melted in an old crock pot and brushed on or if the pieces are small, dipped. To preserve domestic tranquility, don't use your wife's good cookware!

Hope this helps

Kip Powers Rogers, AR

Hello,

I have a great article on endgrain sealers (wax emulsions) on my website, point your browser to the following:

This will give you proper application tips and a good overall view of how to use and store wax emulsions. I use Anchorseal, but Mobil Cer-M also works quite well and may be locally available where you live. Take a look around my library when you're on the website (library button on left of screen) and there are several more articles that are on point, including some on working with green wood.

If you have any questi> Hi I'm just getting in to turning and since I live on a farm I have

TH You know, I am really not sure. Call it a half hour in the shop. Maybe an hour outside? I just put it on and stack the wood. Indoors I use it on endgrain of bowls while they dry so as long as it is dry three or four moths later, no problem :-)

Hi TH

TH I know what you are saying, but...... you can turn wet wood very well, and most turners do just that, trying to dry logs is just not going to work, using a wood sealer will help to keep the logs from splitting for a while only. Go to Darrell Feltmate's site and look at turning green wood, and then spend a few more days looking over all the good info he has there.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

THumphr wrote:

If you have plenty of access, use nothing. Leave in the log, bark on, harvest lengths as desired and able to rough into near the shape you want. Then, depending on your drying conditions, you might want to use a wax emulsion on the outside end grain. I gave it up, because it caused trouble in the way of mildew in my basement conditions, and did not do anything more in preserving the rough than open storage.

End checks in logs and lumber are self-limiting. The millions of board feet of logs and lumber harvested here go to mills or use uncoated. What you want to be careful of is loss of bark from skidding and handling or drying/separating. This allows the outside of the log to dry, and can lead to radial splits, destroying the log's value as turning wood.