Adjusting short rows in heels of socks

Hi everyone

I'm new to socks! This is Short Row 1 (RS) Sl 1 p-wise, k15 (16, 18, 19, 20), work left slanting decrease 6 (7,7,8,9) sts now on left hand needle. Turn. (so I previously used 19 for my first socks)

Short Row 2 Sl1 p-wise, P8 (8,10,10,10), work left slanting decrease (p2tog,) 6 (7,7,8,9) sts now on left hand need. Turn. (so I used 10)

So, after all that...my question is...if I increase the heel flap to 32 stitches...what is the logic for adjusting the number of stitches before turns for the short rows?

Clear as mud?

Reply to
willi
Loading thread data ...

Does he need a sock of larger diameter, or merely more stitches in the heel? I usually put 60% of stitches in the heel when I make a short row-heeled sock and it fits me well: I have a narrow heel and a wide instep. If your DH needs Just Bigger Socks then you should do a little math to res`ize the sock for his foot. You may then discover that the problem isn't the heel at all but the overall size. Unless you're working with worsted-weight yarn I don't see a 60-stitch sock fitting anybody with a foot much bigger than a women's 8.5-9.

Reply to
WoolyGooly

hmmm...now you have brought up some other points that I have wondered about...perhaps another post...lol...but, to stick to this issue...I just want the heel to be wider...the first pair seemed to fit fine except I felt the heel was too narrow. If you use 60% of stitches in the heel, what formula do you use for the length of the first and subsequent short rows.

Thanks!!!

Reply to
willi

So as I sat thinking about your post...I realized that it was not the width of the heel flap that was my problem it was the 'length' of the short rows...as the 'bump' generated by the short rows was a little narrow. This says to me that my problem isn't the heel flap, but, that it would be solved if I used say 11 or 12 stitches in the short rows themselves before the turn...right?

Thanks again!

stitches in the

Reply to
willi

You make a short row heel the same way every time, regardless of the number of stitches in it. Work across to the last stitch in the heel, wrap it, turn, work back to the first stitch, wrap it, turn, ad naus until you've worked down to 20% of stitches (or 1/3 of the heel) left unwrapped, then start working your way back up.

But really, what sort of yarn and what gauge are you working at to make those socks? Because I *really* have trouble believing a

60-stitch sock fits anybody who wears a shoe bigger than mine (women's 10), which describes a good portion of the male species :D
Reply to
WoolyGooly

Oh boy...here is where my lack of experience catches up with me. I'm still in the 'trying to understand the 'pattern' mode...as in the pattern I was working on...because I was trying to understand the logic of why I am doing what with regard to the construction of socks. You have given me a different approach (pattern) which makes sense, but I'll have to do it to understand. My pattern doesn't say anything about wrapping anything...duh.

Anyway, in answer to your question, I am using Sisu yarn 80% wool/20% nylon. The information on the label says 2.5 to 3 needles and 27 sts to 10 cm/4in. My guage is about 7.5 sts to the inch.

It seems to fit if I hold him down and make him try it on...hmm...I should point out that my perceptive math skills are horrible...but logic I can usually relate to.

thanks again!

every time, regardless of the

Reply to
willi

When I make a short row heel I use half the stitches in the heel. If there were 32 stitches in the heel stitches, I would use 16 unwrapped stitches in the middle and 8 wrapped stitches on each side. This works for me (I wear a size 9 women's shoe with a wide toe and narrowish heel.) And I usually use between 60 and 64 stitches for a sock for me (size 1.5 to 2 needles) unless it's really heavier yarn. I'm making a sock with sportweight on size 3 and I actually only used

56 stitches to start and reduced to 48 after the wide part of the toe (toe up sock.)

ALison

Reply to
Alison

Yeah, it's trial and error until you get it right for the foot you're knitting for. Over the years I've developed my own personal sock formula based on my feet, my knitting, that yarn, those needles, ad naus. Some yarns work better with flap-gusset heels, others work with short row heels.

Then I busted my arm and screwed up my wrist, my gauge changed, and Ihad to start from scratch...

Reply to
WoolyGooly

Eh well, I don't know that pattern. It's possible to knit socks with short row heels that aren't wrapped but you'll have a nice line of draughty holes on either side of the ankle.

You need to know your gauge precisely if you want to make things that fit the person for whom you are knitting. Half a stitch per inch, or per four inches, adds up over the long run. A sweater that calls for

20 stitches per 4" will be Not The Right Size if you knit it at 22 stitches per 4" and your lucky recipient will perhaps bear an unfortunate resemblance to a sausage when s/he puts the thing on...

How big around is the man's ankle? 60 stitches @ 7.5spi works out to a sock of about 8" diameter. Is his ankle multiplied by your gauge minus about 10% to prevent baggy socks coincidentally 8"? If it is just use 40 stitches on the heel, treat the center 20 as the "back" of the heel and work the 10 on either side as the short rows.

And you know, if the first one doesn't fit you can fiddle around and make the second one fit, then rip the first one and reknit it. It's only knitting...

Reply to
WoolyGooly

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.