Needle review by an admitted needle-SNOB

Noreen,

I agree with every thing you said. The only question I have is about Denise. I have been disappointed with them coming apart with the joint in the middle of a row. I finally got mad and glued the end apart that kept coming apart. I have 2 cords that do that. I had to send a 7 needle back when started peeling like skin. I like the feel of the Denise set better buy I have been very disappointed with the quality.

Hugs & God bless, Dennis & Gail

I think different needle materials do better at different sizes.

For example; Steel rules! for needles of size 1 and smaller (despite the corrosion problems.) However, I must admit that there are a set of # 1 rosewood needles beside my knitting chair to use as cable needles and for picking up stitches after frogging. ( I am currently up to my neck in a Mary Wright gansey.)

My real problem is that I like the firmer fabrics produced by smaller needles. Maybe I am more a gauge snob, than a needle snob or a yarn snob. I am starting to think that I am purely crazy in this respect. Well maybe not. I notice that the expensive sweaters in the fine woolen shops are also knit more tightly than is called for by modern patterns developed for amateur knitters.

Do people really like the fabrics produced when yarns are knit to the gauge recommended by the yarn band?

Aaron

I think it depends on the circumstances. If the sweater is to be worn in a dressy office for fashion reasons, the ball-band gauge will usually work. If the sweater is to be worn casually around a slightly cool house, while it could work at a looser gauge, I think a slightly tighter gauge would be better. As always, though, swatching is necessary.

If it's to be worn for warmth under severe conditions, but will be under a windbreaker layer, it can still be loose and hold air pockets, but my personal opinion is that many small air pockets will keep me warmer than fewer, larger ones.

(I did once have a sweater (commercial, but very tightly made indeed) that repelled a light rain, but it wasn't windy when I was wearing it, so I don't know whether it would have performed as well under windy conditions.)

=Tamar

Spike Driver spun a FINE 'yarn':

Dennis, I've NEVER ever had Denise come apart. I've spoken with the owner of the company (and her daughter as well) via phone and email, and I DO know they stand behind their product. Sent them back, they'll replace them free! HTH, Noreen

Spike Driver spun a FINE 'yarn':

Dennis! I can honestly say that I've never EVER had Denise come apart on me, and I've had my set a very long time, and use it a lot. I DO know that the owner and her daughter will stand behind their product -- return the set or the questionable pieces, they will replace it free!! (I've spoken with both the owner and her daughter via phone and corresponded via email, they're great gals, a family owned business!!) HTH, Noreen

...

So do I - and I bought a box for a daughter and she loves it too.

Mary

That's not happened with mine ...

Mary

That's useful to know - but if it ever does happen to mine it wouldn't be as easy as that, I'm in England.

I believe you - but can you give me their e-mail address, please?

Mary

I've never seen that on British wool bands but since I don't keep to instructions anyway (boring!) I don't suppose I would.

Mary

Suggested needles for a loose gauge is an American Yarn Council thing. Although, I do have some yarn spun in Scotland that I bought in England that has suggestions for 5 mm/ USA 8 needles and 18 stitches/ 10 cm. I still have that yarn because I swatched it at that gauge -- and hated the fabric. More recently, I have decided it is actually very nice on USA 1 needles at just over 7 stitches per inch. If I am going to put that much work into an object, it better be a nice fabric - and it is.

British Breeds has suggested needles ( see

I, too, am a needle snob. Or, more properly, a reverse snob. I have been knitting since I was a little girl, and I use steel needles for sizes #2 and finer, and aluminum for the fatter ones. All are 14" long, and I work with the right needle tucked firmly under my right arm. I also have several sets of steel dpns in both 5" and 7" length which I use occasionally, and circulars (with which I knit continental style)for making very wide items or for use when travelling. All my needles are common, easy-to obtain brands such as Boye or Susan Bates, and many of them were inherited or bought at estate sales.

Yes, I have tried out some of the the expensive ones, and found them wanting.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

Mary Fisher spun a FINE 'yarn':

Mary! Linda Krag is the owner. You can email direct via:

Mary Fisher spun a FINE 'yarn':

Mary,

the owner is Linda Krag.

You can email them direct here:

Phone: 888-831-8042

Hope this helps! Hugs, Noreen

Mary

Me too! Well, I have one set of steel needles, size 1. The rest are Boye aluminum. The dpn are mostly 7", in sets of four. Unless I'm knitting something very narrow, or small in circumference, I use a Boye NeedleMaster. I have tried other materials -- and I do not like them.

Cece

Thank you :-)

Mary

Mary

Thanks Noreen,

I sent the needle back, I need to send the cable back. When I sent the needle back the daughter actually gave me a call, I was impressed.

I guess I am being lazy :) .

Hugs & God bless, Dennis & Gail

Spike Driver spun a FINE 'yarn':

LOL, not *lazy*... prcrastinating!!! Hugs, Noreen PS, see my message to Mary for the snail and phone numbers if you don't already have them!