Cutting mirror with glass cutter...?

Hi,

I'm still learning a lot, so I don't know this - cabn a regular type of mirror be cut with a plain glass gutter, like on can do with stained glass? If not, does one need a special cutter? if it can be cut like "regular" glass, shoud one cut it fromt eh glass side, or the coated side, and hoan one keep tehcoating from chiping/flaking?

Also, can a a mirror be run trough a glass grinder, or does the coating chip/flake off too badly?

Thank you in advance!

- Kris

Reply to
Kris Krieger
Loading thread data ...

it should be cut on the glass side with a regular cutter. you can grind it with an extrafine grit grinder head. i like to use spray clear krylon varnish to protect the backside edge before foiling it, but don't do this for leading. the acids of soldering flux will eat the mirror off, causing black spots if you're not very careful.

Reply to
charlie

"charlie" wrote in news:g9mmch$f0l$1 @aioe.org:

Thanks for the info :)

I'm currently working on copper foil, since I have a prefrence for small detailed projects - maybe I ought to put some blue painter's tape on the mirror back just inside the foil line, so that flux and solder don't get onto the coating...?

Reply to
Kris Krieger

I do quite a lot of work with mirror - particularly some little 'tealights' - which have three pieces of mirrored glass joined together at 90 degrees to form the 'body' of the tealight.

In my experience, you need to prevent the flux from getting at the _edge_ of the mirrored surface - as it will eat its way between the silvering and the glass - turning the mirror black or brown. The worst part of this is that the damage occurs over a period of time - weeks rather than days - so the first you know of it is when a customer brings back a ruined piece !

Prevention (for me) consists of using a special mirror grinding bit on the cut edges, grinding as little as possible, then washing the glass very thoroughly with soap and water, After drying, paint the cut edges with a sealant (either nail varnish or a clear laquer) and, once dry, foil over the edges and burnish the foil down well before soldering. Silver-backed foil gives a tidy effect. Clean off the flux residue as soon as possible after soldering - using hot water and soap.

It's also worth taking care with storing your mirrored glass, the backing is easily scratched, and, if damaged, may allow the flux to get under the backing. Small scratches can be repaired with silver-backed tape, but you then need to smarten up the rear of the mirror with some self-adhesive paper etc.

Hope this helps Adrian

formatting link

Reply to
Adrian

Cut the mirror as close to the shape you want as possible.Grind as little as possible. Lay the mirror on some clear contact paper and trim away the excess with an exacto knife....THEN foil. The contact paper will prevent the flux from getting on the mirror AND help prevent scratches. I gave up painting the back and edge of mirror years ago.

Reply to
Chemo the Clown

Adrian wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:

Thanks, Alex!

I assume that the varnish is similar to Charlies's use of Krylon...both are good ideas :)

Just out of idle curiosity, have you even used any of the pre-cut mirrors, such as the small circles?

- Kris

Reply to
Kris Krieger

Chemo the Clown wrote in news:f3471fdb-0741-45ed-a865- snipped-for-privacy@w39g2000prb.googlegroups.com: [snipped becasue my textwrapper got sloppy]

THat's another good idea. I used conatact paper (Actually, the brand is "Magic Cover", and it's actually plastic) on a plastic pot whcih has been outside for a few years, with no peeling. So that sounds like a good idea for outdoor items.

Moree good ideas - THanks!

- Kris

Reply to
Kris Krieger

Yes - same idea, I guess...

Actually - I'm surprised that the Krylon does the job - I can understand it protecting the back of the glass, but in my experience it's the _edge_ of the glass that's most vunerable.....

No - never used them - I'd imagine they'd suffer from the same problem unless they've been pre-treated with a varnish or something similar...

Regards Adrian

Reply to
Adrian

Adrian wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:

I'm wanting to use a mirror "pyramid" in the bottom of a largeish lamp-type stained glass construct (I'm trying to learn enough electronics to make a decently-bright solar-charged light, and teh mirror will keep it from "wasting" light, by having it bounce back up through the stained-glass panels of the unit). So I don't want the edges to get messy, but also, I'm considering all these ideas for also preserving the mirror back (which will be the botom of the lamp). I'd thought of just putting a panel of clear glass, or maybe even plexigalss or LExan, under it, but havent' decided, so I'm considering all teh various idea folks have offered :)

Oh, I just meant as time-savers, since they're pre-cut ;)

Reply to
Kris Krieger

Kris:

If you need some help in the electronics aspect of this project, let me know. I have more than a passing knowledge of the subject.

Reply to
Bill Browne

"Bill Browne" wrote in news:Danxk.208181$102.43438 @bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:

Hey, thanks!

Sorry for the delayed response - I was preparing for Ike, and then Ike hit...we escaped the worst of it thankfully, but I did a lto of preparations "just in case" ;)

Would you mind if I sent you a private email on this?

Thanks!

-Kris

Reply to
Kris Krieger

InspirePoint website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.