Brother PC-8500 owner's manual: Zigzag stitches

ZIGZAG STITCHES

❶ Zigzag stitch ❷ Elastic zigzag stitch ❸ Elastic zigzag stitch

Overcasting (using a zigzag stitch)

Sew the overcasting along the edge of the fabric so that the right hand side needle drop point is over the edge of the fabric.

❶ Needle drop point

Applique (using a zigzag stitch)

Attach the applique using adhesive or basting, then sew it.

• Sew a zigzag stitch, while positioning the right hand needle drop point just outside the edge of the fabric.

Patchwork (for crazy quilt)

Turn back the desired width of fabric and position it over the lower fabric, then sew so that the stitch bridges both pieces of fabric.

❶ Upper fabric ❷ Lower fabric

48

OVERCASTING

❶ Thin and medium fabrics ❷ Thick fabric ❸ Thick and medium stretch fabric ❹ Medium stretch fabric ❺ Stretch fabric ❻ Stretch fabric

When using , or stitches

Sew the fabric while placing fabric edge against the guide of presser foot “G”.

❶ Guide

• When the automatic thread cutting and automatic reinforcement stitch are preset, a reinforcement stitch will be sewn automatically at the start of sewing. Press the “REVERSE STITCH” button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the thread automatically at the finish of sewing.

CAUTION After the stitch width has been adjusted, turn the balance wheel by hand and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If it does touch, the needle may break and injury could result.

When using , or stitches

Attach presser foot “J” and let the needle drop slightly past the edge of the fabric before starting to sew.

• When the automatic thread cutting and automatic reinforcement stitch are preset, a reinforcement stitch will be sewn automatically at the start of sewing. Press the “REVERSE STITCH” button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the thread automatically at the finish of sewing.

49

OVERCASTING (When using the side cutter)

❶ Thin and medium fabrics ❷ Thick fabric ❸ Thick and medium stretch fabric ❹ Normal sewing ❺ Zigzag stitch

By using the side cutter, you can do overcasting while cutting the fabric. If using the side cutter, select the pattern and then touch the “ ” key.

1. Push the “NEEDLE POSITION” button to raise the needle, and then turn off the power.
2. Raise the presser foot lever.
3. While pressing the black button to the left of the presser foot holder, pull the presser foot holder downward to remove it.

4. Set the screw of the needle bar into the fork of the operating lever.

❶ Screw of the needle bar ❷ Operating lever

• Make sure that the screw is held firmly by the fork.

5. With the presser foot raised, align the presser foot holder screw hole directly with the notch in the side cutter, then insert the screw provided in your accessory bag (accessory #3 on page 7) and lightly tighten it. Lower the presser foot lever and firmly tighten the screw.

6. Select the pattern and then touch the “ ” key. The necessary adjustment for the side cutter will be carried out automatically.

7. Make a cut of about 2 cm in the fabric.

❶ 2 cm

8. Place the fabric as shown left figure B. –Right side of cut: on top of the guide plate –Left side of cut: underneath the presser foot

❶ Guide plate (lower knife) ❷ Presser foot

9. Thread the needle, and then pull out a long section of the upper thread, pass it below the presser foot and pull it out in the fabric feed direction. (See left figure B)

❷ Presser foot ❸ Upper thread

10. Lower the presser foot lever.

CAUTION If the width has been adjusted, turn the balance wheel by hand to check that the needle does not touch the side cutter. If the needle touches the side cutter, it may cause the needle to break.

When sewing straight stitches only The seam margin should be about 0.5 cm.

❶ Seam margin

• Make sure that you touch the “$” key when using the side cutter.
• Clean the side cutter after use, otherwise dust and scraps of thread will build up on it.
• Add a small amount of oil as required to the cutting edge of the cutter.

Note –The fabric will not be cut if the whole fabric is simply spread out underneath the presser foot guide plate. Set the fabric as explained in step 8. above, and the start sewing. –Check that the needle is raised when the presser foot lever is raised. –One layer of 13-oz denim can be cut.

Setting Up Sewing Utility Stitches Characters and Decorative Stitches Embroidering Editing Embroidery Patterns Retrieving My Custom Stitch™ Maintenance Error Messages Trouble shooting Sewing Chart Patterns (Programmed in Machine) Patterns (Memory Card)

51

BLIND HEM STITCHES

❶ Other fabric ❷ Stretch fabric

1. Fold the fabric and baste it as illustrated.

❶ 0.5 cm (3/16") ❷ Surface 0.5 cm (3/16") ❹ Reverse side ❺ Basting stitch

2. Attach presser foot "R". Lower the presser foot so that its guide meets the edge of the folded hem.

❶ Guide Folded hem

3. Adjust the needle position using the stitch width setting keys so that needle slightly catches the fold of the hem, and then sew the fabric.

❶ Needle drop position

• When the automatic thread cutting and automatic reinforcement stitch are preset, a reinforcement stitch will be sewn automatically at the start of sewing. Press the "REVERSE STITCH" button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the thread automatically at the finish of sewing.

4. Turn over the fabric and remove the basting stitch.

❶ Reverse side ❷ Surface

52

Adjusting the needle drop position

Touch the “◀” and “▶” stitch width setting keys to adjust the needle drop position so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

A– If the needle catches the fold of hem too much. — Touch the “▶” stitch width setting key. This moves the needle away from the fold. B– If the needle does not catch the fold of hem enough. — Touch the “◀” stitch width setting key. This moves the needle closer to the fold.

1 Reverse side 2 Surface

53

BUTTONHOLE STITCHES

❶ Suits, overcoat ❷ Jeans, trousers ❸ Thick coats ❹ Thin or medium fabric ❺ Stretch fabric with coarse weaves ❻ Stretch fabric ❼ Thin and medium fabric (for horizontal holes) ❽ Jeans, trousers ❾ Thick coats ⑩ The first step in making a bound buttonhole.

1. Mark the positions of the buttonholes on the fabric.

• The maximum buttonhole length is 3 cm (1-3/16") (total of diameter + thickness of button).

• Thick thread (#30) cannot be used in with the "❶" and "❷" patterns.

2. Draw out the button holder plate and insert the button.

❶ Button holder plate

3. Raise the presser foot and adjust the fabric so that the red mark on the foot is over the starting mark of your buttonhole. Lower the presser foot into position.

❶ Mark on fabric for buttonhole position ❷ Red mark on presser foot

• After the presser foot lever has been lowered, set the presser foot so that there is no gap behind the section marked with an "A", otherwise the size of the stitch will not be correct. To do this, push the presser foot towards the back of the machine as shown in the left figure.
• Pass the thread underneath the presser foot.

4. Lower the buttonhole lever and position it behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot.

❶ Metal bracket on the buttonhole foot

54

5. Press the “START/STOP” button to start the machine, while gently holding the end of the upper thread.

• Gently, feed the fabric by hand.
• The machine will stop with a reinforcement stitch automatically after sewing is completed.
• If you touch the automatic thread cutting key prior to sewing, the machine cuts both threads automatically after sewing is completed.
• If the fabric will not feed (for instance, because it is too thick), touch the “▲” stitch length setting key to increase the stitch length.

6. Open the buttonhole.

Normal buttonhole and rounded buttonhole

Insert a pin in front of the inside edge of both bar tacks. Insert the seam ripper into center of buttonhole. Cut towards the first pin. Then cut toward the other pin.

❶ Pin

Keyhole buttonhole

Make a hole using the small eyelet punch in the key end, insert a pin into the inside edge of the bar tack. Insert a seam ripper into the hole made with the eyelet punch and cut towards the pin.

❶ Small eyelet punch (accessory #7 on page 7) ❷ Pin

Order of one cycle

❶ Reinforcement stitch

Sewing stretch fabrics

When sewing buttonholes onto stretch fabric, insert onto stretch fabric, a gimp thread into the buttonhole seam (“ ” buttonholes only).

1. Hook the gimp thread onto the end of presser foot “A”, insert it into the groove at the front of the presser foot and temporarily tie it there.

❶ Upper thread ❷ Bobbin thread

2. Lower the presser foot and start sewing.

• Set the stitch width to match the diameter of the gimp thread.

3. Once sewing is completed, pull the gimp thread gently to remove any slack, and trim any surplus length.

56

Buttons that do not fit into the guide plate (Odd-shaped buttons)

Measure the button diameter + thickness to set the plate.

Example: For a button with a diameter of 1.5 cm (9/16") and a thickness of 1 cm (3/8"), the scale should be set at 2.5 cm (1")

❶ Thickness [1 cm (3/8")] ❷ Diameter [1.5 cm (9/16")] ❸ Button holder plate ❹ Scale ❺ Diameter + thickness [2.5 cm (1")] [0.5 cm (3/16") in one scale.] ❻ 0.5 cm (3/16")

Changing the stitch length

Touch the "▲" and "▼" stitch length setting keys to adjust the stitch length.

❶ "▲": Longer ❷ Normal length 0.4 mm (1/64") ❸ "▼": Shorter

• If the fabric will not feed (for instance, because it is too thick), touch the "▲" stitch length setting key to increase the stitch length.

Changing the stitch width

Touch the "◀" and "▶" stitch width setting keys to adjust the stitch width.

❶ "AUTO" width 5.0 mm (3/16") ❷ "◀" : Narrower

BAR TACKING

Use for reinforcing the openings of pockets, etc.

1. Attach presser foot “A” and set the size by measuring the area to be bar tacked.

   ❶ Button holder plate ❷ Scale ❸ 0.5 cm (3/16”) ❹ Length of bar tack

   • 0.5 to 3 cm (3/16” to 1/2”) is suitable for bar tacking. 0.5 to 1 cm (3/16” to 3/18”) is the normal size.

2. Position the pocket as illustrated with the top of the pocket facing you. Stitch down the pocket following the pattern instructions. To secure the pocket with bar tacking align the needle drop point with the corner of the pocket to be stitched and move the pocket back 2 mm (1/16”) as shown below.

• After the presser foot lever has been lowered, set the presser foot so that there is no gap behind the section marked with an “A”, otherwise the size of the stitch will not be correct. To do this, push the presser foot towards the back of the machine as shown in the figure.
• Pass the thread underneath the presser foot.

3. Check the first needle drop point and lower the presser foot.

   ❶ 2 mm (1/16”)

4. Lower the buttonhole lever and position it behind the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot.

   ❶ Metal bracket on buttonhole foot

58

5. Start the machine while holding the end of the upper thread.

• The machine will sew a reinforcement stitch and stop automatically after sewing is completed.
• If you touch the automatic thread cutting key prior to sewing, the machine cuts both threads automatically after sewing is completed.
• If the fabric will not feed (for instance, because it is too thick), touch the “▲” stitch length setting key to increase the stitch length.

Thick fabrics

Place another piece of fabric or cardboard at the back as thick as original. This sets the presser foot to the same height and allows for easier feeding.

1 Presser foot 2 Cardboard

Changing the bar tack stitch length

Touch the “▲” and “▼” stitch length setting keys to adjust the stitch length.

1 “AUTO” length 0.4 mm (1/64”) 2 “▲”: Longer 3 “▼”: Shorter

• If the fabric will not feed (for instance, because it is too thick), touch the “▲” stitch length setting key to increase the stitch length.

Changing the bar tack stitch width

Touch the “◄” and “►” stitch width setting keys to adjust the stitch width.

1 “AUTO” width 2.0 mm (1/16”) 2 “►”: Wider 3 “◄”: Narrower

DARNING

❶ Medium fabric ❷ Thick fabric

1. Set the stitch length using the scale on presser foot “A”.

❶ Scale on the presser foot ❷ Button holder plate ❸ 5 mm (3/16") at "2" on scale ❹ Length of darning is equal to scale setting. ❺ Width [7 mm (1/4")]

• The maximum stitch length for darning is 3 cm (1-3/16").

2. Check the needle drop point and then lower the presser foot.

• After the presser foot lever has been lowered, set the presser foot so that there is no gap behind the section marked with an “A”, otherwise the size of the stitch will not be correct. To do this, push the presser foot towards the back of the machine as shown in the left figure.
• Pass the thread underneath the presser foot.

3. Lower the button hole lever to set it behind the metal bracket.

❶ Metal bracket

4. Start sewing while holding the upper thread by hand.

• The machine stops automatically after sewing a reinforcement stitch.
• When automatic thread cutting is set, the machine trims both threads automatically after sewing is completed.

Changing the length of the darning stitch

Touch the “▲” and “▼” stitch length setting keys to adjust the stitch length.

1. “AUTO”: 2.0 mm (1/16")
2. “▲”: Longer (less dense)
3. “▼”: Shorter (more dense)

• If the fabric will not feed (for instance, because it is too thick), touch the “▲” stitch length setting key to increase the stitch length.

Changing the bar tack stitch width

Touch the “◄” and “►” stitch width setting keys to adjust the stitch width.

1. “AUTO”: 7.0 mm (1/4")
2. “◄”: Narrower

Darning stitch cycle

1. Reinforcement stitch

TAPE ATTACHING

These stitches are used for attaching tape to thin and medium fabric.

❶ Patchwork stitch ❷ Elastic zigzag stitch

1. Attach presser foot "J", select pattern "□", set the stitch length to 4.0 mm and set the thread tension to a weak setting. Then sew a straight stitch. Pull the bobbin thread to obtain the desired amount of gather.

Note Before using the basting stitch, rotate the hand wheel and pull up the bobbin thread, grasping the top and bobbin thread pull a length of thread out from the rear of the machine. (Be sure that the presser foot is lifted.)

2. Place the tape on top of the seam which you have just sewn and secure it with pins.

3. Select pattern "▤" and then sew along the top of the tape.

4. Pull out the straight stitch thread.

62

EYELET STITCH

Stitch for making eyelet on belts, etc.

1. Touch the “▲” and “▼” stitch length setting keys and the “▶” and “◀” stitch width setting keys to set the size of the eyelet.

2. Attach presser foot “N”, check the needle drop point and lower the presser foot, then start sewing.

1 Needle drop point

• The machine stops automatically after sewing a reinforcement stitch.
• When automatic thread cutting is set, the machine trims both threads automatically after sewing is completed.

3. Make a hole at the center with an eyelet punch.

Size of eyelet (Actual size)

A B C

A– Large: 7.0 mm (5/16”) B– Medium: 6.0 mm (1/4”) C– Small: 5.0 mm (3/16”)

Setting Up Sewing Utility Stitches Characters and Decorative Stitches Embroidering Editing Embroidery Patterns Retrieving My Custom Stitch™ Maintenance Error Messages Trouble shooting Sewing Chart Patterns (Programmed in Machine) Patterns (Memory Card)

63

BUTTON SEWING

This stitch is used for attaching buttons.

Do not use the automatic thread cutter when attaching buttons, (the threads will become difficult to handle and tying off will not be possible).

1. Raise the presser foot lever and slide the feed dog adjustment lever to the right to lower the feed dog. ❶ Feed dog adjustment lever

2. Attach button fitting foot “M”, place the button into the presser foot and then lower the presser foot.

3. Turn the balance wheel to check that the needle goes into each of the holes in the button correctly, and then start sewing. Once sewing is completed, the machine will stop automatically.
   • If extra attachment strength is needed, carry out the button sewing operation twice.

4. Once sewing is completed, return the feed dog to its original position, pull the bobbin thread at the sewing end down and pull the upper thread at the sewing end through to the reverse side of the fabric. Then tie the thread ends together and cut the threads at the sewing start.

64

Attaching buttons with four holes

First sew the two holes which are closest to you. Once they have been sewn, raise the presser foot, move the needle to the next two holes and then sew them in the same way.

Attaching a shank to the button

1. Pull the shank lever toward you and then start sewing.

❶ Shank lever

2. Hold the upper thread ends at the sewing start and sewing end which are between the button and the fabric, wind them around the shank and then tie them firmly together.

3. Tie the ends of the bobbin thread together at the reverse side of the fabric.

BASTING

1. Attach presser foot “J”. It is suggested that the basting stitch be started with a reinforcement stitch by pressing the “REVERSE STITCH” button.

Note If you do not want to use a reinforcement stitch at the beginning, you should lift the presser foot, rotate the hand wheel, pull up the bobbin thread and pull a length of top and bobbin thread out from the rear of the machine.

• You can change the length of one stitch to between 5 mm and 30 mm (3/16" to 1-3/16").

❶ 5 mm to 30 mm (3/16" to 1-3/16")

2. Sew while keeping the fabric taut.
3. End sewing with a reinforcement stitch.

Setting Up Sewing Utility Stitches Characters and Decorative Stitches Embroidering Editing Embroidery Patterns Retrieving My Custom Stitch ™ Maintenance Error Messages Trouble shooting Sewing Chart Patterns (Programmed in Machine) Patterns (Memory Card)

66

ZIPPER INSERTION (CENTERED AND SIDE APPLICATION)

Select the pattern and then touch the “ ” key.

Centered application

1. Attach presser foot “J” and sew straight stitches up to the crotch end. Change to a basting stitch and sew to the top of the fabric.

   1. Crotch end
   2. Reverse stitch
   3. Basting stitch
   4. Reverse side

2. Press the seam allowance open and attach the zipper with a basting stitch in the middle.

   1. Zipper
   2. Basting
   3. Reverse side

3. Select the “ ” stitch and then touch the “ ” key. The necessary adjustment for zipper insertion will be carried out automatically.

4. Put the right side of presser foot “I” into the holder. Topstitch 1 cm (3/8”) from the seamed edge of the fabric and then remove the basting.

   1. Surface

67

Side application

1. Attach presser foot “J” and sew straight stitches up to the crotch end. Change to a basting stitch and sew to the top of the fabric.

   ❶ Crotch end ❷ Reverse stitch ❸ Basting stitch ❹ Reverse side

2. Press the seam allowance open and align the folded hem along the teeth of the zipper, while keeping 3 mm (1/8") for the sewing space.

   ❶ Reverse side ❷ Keep 3 mm (1/8") for sewing ❸ Teeth of zipper ❹ Slider on head of zipper ❺ Crotch end (Base of zipper)

3. Select the “ ” stitch and then touch the “ ” key. The necessary adjustment for zipper insertion will be carried out automatically.

4. Put the left side of presser foot “I” into the holder, and then sew the bottom layer to the crotch end (base of zipper).

• When the automatic thread cutting and automatic reinforcement stitch are preset, reinforcement stitches will be sewn automatically at the start of sewing. Press the “REVERSE STITCH” button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the thread automatically at the finish of sewing.

5. Close the zipper and turn over the fabric. Then attach the other side of the zipper to the fabric.

❶ Reverse side

6. Turn the fabric over to the right side and sew a straight stitch 5 cm from the end, stop the machine, lower the needle, raise the presser foot and then remove the basting stitches.

❶ Surface

7. Move the zipper pull and sew the remaining part.

❶ Surface

Setting Up Sewing Utility Stitches Characters and Decorative Stitches Embroidering Editing Embroidery Patterns Retrieving My Custom Stitch ™ Maintenance Error Messages Trouble shooting Sewing Chart Patterns (Programmed in Machine) Patterns (Memory Card)

69

DART SEAM

1. Attach presser foot “J”. Sew a reverse stitch at the beginning of the dart and then sew from the wide end to the other end without stretching the fabric.

❶ Basting

• If automatic reinforcement stitching is preset, a reinforcement stitch will automatically be sewn at the sewing start.

2. Do not sew a reverse stitch at end. Cut the thread at the end leaving 5 cm (1-15/16"), and then tie both ends together.

3. Insert the ends of the thread into the dart with a needle.

4. Iron the dart to one side so that it is flat.

70

GATHERING

Use on waists of skirts, the sleeves of shirts, etc.

1. Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16") and the thread tension to weak.

• If you touch the “GATHERING” key after touching the “ ” key, the stitch length will be set automatically to 4.0 mm (3/16") and the thread tension will be set automatically to weak.

2. Attach presser foot “J”. Pull out the bobbin and upper threads by 5 cm (1-15/16").

❶ Upper thread ❷ Bobbin thread ❸ About 5 cm (1-15/16")

3. Sew two rows of straight stitches parallel to the seam line, then trim excess thread leaving 5 cm (1-15/16") .

❶ Seam line ❷ 1.0 to 1.5 cm (3/8" to 9/16") ❸ About 5 cm (1-15/16")

4. Pull the bobbin threads to obtain the desired amount of gather, then tie the threads.

71

5. Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

Pulling out the bobbin thread

1. Thread the thread along the groove in the direction of the arrow, and leave it there without cutting it.

❶ Shuttle

• The bobbin cover should still be removed.

2. While holding the upper thread, press the “NEEDLE POSITION” button twice and then pull out the bobbin thread.

3. Replace the bobbin cover.