OT word of the day

So that's where the term 'background' came from. I hadn't realized thy were

2 separate words.

Butterfly (how interesting)

Points and Aiguillettes

These terms go all the way back to before knights in shineing armor. In fact they were sometimes used to describe the thongs holding some of that shining armor in place.

Originally the metal tags on thongs of leather. By the 15th Century, the metal tags were called aiguillettes and the thongs 'points'. Used on a garment by placing a corresponding row of eyelet holes in the garment and the section of or the seperate garment to which it was to be attached,(recalling that back then things like sleeves were a seperate garment) threading the points through the holes and tying the ends together. Sometimes they were functional, the equivilent to modern buttons and zippers. Sometimes they were purely ornamental.

In modern times, aiguillettes are the fancy braided cord seen on military or police dress uniforms.

The word aglet, which is what the stiff metal or platic bit on the tips of shoelaces is called, is derived from aiguillettes. It all comes from the french word for needle, aguille. Which of course comes from the latin word for needle, acus.

Hessian Burlap

The scratchy stuff sacks are often made of. Usually coarse woven of jute, possibly in combination with similar fibers (hemp, sisal, etc.).

It actually was part of Hessian soldier's uniforms.

In addition to sacks it also has assorted uses in crafts, as a rug base, in assorted interior decor, as a protective covering in agriculture, in religious mortifications, and etc. It is still prefered by some people for part of the barrier between subflooring and laid flooring that is secured with adhesives, or as an underlayer for roofing felt, and similar constructions.

For anybody visiting Scotland, a visit to the Verdant Works in Dundee is a must. It's a jute processing factory turned into an industrial museum. (Dundee used to be the world's leading centre for jute processing). All the original machinery is still there, you can see and handle samples of jute in every stage of processing and made into an incredible range of things, and they tell the story of the industry in India as well as Scotland. Films, sound recordings, dioramas about the social history of Dundee, the lot.

==== j a c k at c a m p i n . m e . u k === ==== Jack Campin, 11 Third St, Newtongrange EH22 4PU, Scotland == mob 07800 739 557 CD-ROMs and free stuff: Scottish music, food intolerance, and Mac logic fonts

Vicuna

Quite possibly the most expensive natural fiber in the world.

Vicuna are a South American camelid, related to llamas and alpacas. However they can only be safely shorn about every three years, and only about a pound of wool is obtained from each animal. The wool is fine, exceptionally warm, and one of the softest, most comfortable fibers to wear. They became severely endangered, and were listed as such in the mid

70's. Now there are about 120,000 animals known to exist. Formerly Vicuna were shot and then sheared as it was easier than catching them. The governments of some South American countries, most notably Peru which has the highest vicuna population, have begun organized roundups of the animals, after which their coat is measured, and if deemed long enough shorn. Then all the animals are released. The benefits to both the animals and the local communities have been high. Domestication has thus far been unsuccessful, as the animals keep escapeing. Currently properly labled (indicateing sanctioned and sustainable harvest methods) vicuna wool is legal for sale in both the US and the EU. Vicuna is always undyed because it does not hold up to any dying process at all. Scarves made of vicuna start at about US1500, between US1000 and 1500 are vicuna blends, at less than US1000 they might have shown the scarf to a vicuna.

Fascinating, Nightmist. This series is just wonderful. Thank you so much for going to the trouble to do it. I've known 'bits and pieces', but the vast majority of the detailed info. you give, is new to me. See, still learning!! . In message , NightMist writes

The Bayeux Tapestry

One of the textile treasures of the world. The Bayeux Tapestry is an embroidery, wool on linen, that is approximately 20 inches wide and 75 yards long. Some of the last part is missing, a section estimated to be 8 to 10 feet in length, so the exact length of the original work is unknown. It was commissioned shortly after 1066 and depicts events leading up to, and the Battle of Hastings and the Norman conquest of England. Current theory has it that it was commissioned by Bishop Odo of England and created at the school of embroidery then located in Canterbury in Kent. There is much about the tapestry that indicates an English origin, though it has been located in France for centuries. It spent much of its history in the cathedral at Bayeux, but it now has a dedicated museum in the same city. The consistancy of design tends to make people believe that it was designed by a single person, but who this person was is unknown. The work itself was certainly a group effort. It is priceless not only as an art treasure, but as one of the few historical accounts surviving from that time.

Kimono Fabric

Most often cotton or silk, though rayon and other synthetics have crept into use over the last hundred years.

Highly sought by many for its quality and patterning, which, with fiber, varies according to the formality of the kimono it is intended to make, and the age and marital status of the person to be wearing it. Most of the better quality silks are sold undyed prior to being made up, as much of the ornamentaion of formal kimono, and the highly decorated kimono for young women, is done after or while the kimono is made. The weave of the fabric also varies according to climate, age of the intended wearer, and formality.

Kimono fabric is sold by the tan, which could be likened to a small bolt that is 29.5 ft long by just shy of 12 inches wide. Each tan is intended to make one adult kimono.

Several of the weavers dyers, and etc. involved with making kimono have been designated as Living National Treasures by the Japanese government.

I have a friend who lives not far from here who imports these 'small bolts' and sells them at quilt shows - along with her books on sashiko and kimono. She recently had an exhibition of kimono, showing all the different kinds and colours for the various occasions. So interesting.

In message , NightMist writes

Flat Felled Seam

An enclosed reinforced seam frequently used where a little extra strength is desired, to reduce seam bulk, or for decorative purposes.

There are several ways of doing it, whichever one is the one you were taught or prefer to use, is the right one. (G)

Here are three of the most commonly used methods.

1) Sew a seam with the fabric wrong sides together. Trim one side of the seam close to the fabric. Fold the other side of the seam over the trimmed side, fold it under itself, and topstitch down.

2) Sew a french seam starting with right sides together. Press to the side. Topstich down.

3) Press a fold between 3/8 and 5/8s wide (as suits the project) along the seam edge of each section of fabric, pressing one fold to the right side of the fabric, and the other side to the wrong side of the fabric. Carefully nest the folds with the section pressed to the wrong side on top, and the raw edge of the fabric next to the pressed fold.Topstitch along the fold, flip and topstitch along the other fold.

These seem to me to be three different seam styles, but there it is.

Warp Faced Weft Faced

Sometimes when weaving the threads going in one direction or the other will dominate the faces of the fabric. For example when a heavier yarn is used for the warp or the weft it may be the only visiable yarn in the fabric. When the warp yarns dominate the surface of the fabric, the fabric is called warp faced. When it is the weft yarns, the fabric is called weft faced. There are various weaving techniques that may almost always give one result or the other. Inkle weaving is almost always warp faced for example, while tapestry is almost always weft faced.

Accordion Ribbed Knit

A very stretchy rib knit comprised of alternateing sized ribs, 1x1 followed by 2x2. Often seen in hosiery of all sorts.

Cartridge Pleat

Most often used in period costumes. Deep, even 'accordion' gatherings accomplished by shirring (pleating like an accordion), usually in three rows. Tacked on by single or double stitches to the edge of the bodice, doublet or waist band. The pleats generate too much bulk to use standard seaming.

Satin Sateen

The difference between these is wholly in the fiber content. They are both satin weaves. There are two basic varieties of satin weave, warp face and filling face. Warp face is the most common of the two. In warp face the weft thread passes over one warp thread, and then under several. In filling face (filling is often used as an alternate term for weft), the process is reversed, so that the weft thread passes under one warp thread and over the next several.

Satin is usually made of silk, or filament synthetic threads, sometimes a blend of both.

Sateen is usually made of cotton, or other spun yarns.

Tailor's Ham

A firmly stuffed ham shaped cushion, used for pressing seams and darts in garments so that they retain their shape well.

Some older sewing books give instructions for making your own ham, and almost always advise making them entirely out of a "strong woolen", and stuffing with sawdust or horsehair. There are exceptions, velvet or velvet covered hams seem to have had a devoted following for pressing silks and delicate fabrics. I confess I have one and use it for pressing velvets mostly. (1) There are still instructions for making your own available, including online. In this day and age with more diversity of fabrics, and electric irons, often hams are made of all cotton, or half cotton and half wool. The stuffing should still be very firm however, and I have found sawdust from kiln dried wood to be optimal, with horsehair or synthetics a very distant second. Hair and synthetics tend to be more difficult to stuff evenly, and it is more difficult to get the desired firmness, especially with synthetics. They also begin to smell a bit after a while. Cotton wadding would probably work if you could stuff it firmly and evenly enough without damaging your seams.

(1) with velvets I usually give the hard pressing to the lining and interlining, and am much more gentle with the outer so as to save the pile.

I actually have a pressing cloth for velvet!! It's like a synthetic velvet itself; but tougher, presumably? (I also have a tailor's ham!! I used to take my clothes making very seriously >g

I have a tailor's ham and HAD a velvet board. Haven't seen that in years. Wonder where it went.....

Butterfly (have a stack of 5" squares of velvet and sequined velvets cut and ready for a someday quilt. Just need more velvet to cut. )

You are using SEQUINED velvets in a quilt? Only real velvet, or are you including velveteen? Colors, goal, purpose?? Details woman, details! PAT in VA/USA