What's Your Favorite Paper Pattern Company?

Vogue/Butterick are my favorites for fit. Kwik Sew is nice for some things (gymskins, basics). Burda has good styles. I stay away from Simplicity and McCall's patterns (although McCall's kids patterns are OK).

When I'm looking for a pattern that I want to work the first time without a lot of fussing and fighting, or I'm trying a new style I go with Vogue/Butterick.

ymmv

-- Jenn Ridley snipped-for-privacy@chartermi.net

I know many will disagree, and perhaps I've just been using them for so long I automatically adjust for the vagaries, but for most things, I like Simplicity. I'm not sure why so many here have a problem with their sizing, I find them pretty much right on. I measure the person carefully, and also make measurements of the pattern pieces, and I don't seem to find the huge difference which has been reported in this group. I have a niggling feeling some of the sewing newbies buy patterns based on their "ready-to-wear size", and that hasn't corresponded to pattern sizing for _years_!

For more elaborate styles, or when I can't find a Simplicity pattern close enough to adapt, my second choice is Vogue. I just prefer the _cost_ of Simplicity, especially when they are $.99 at TSWLTH. ;-)

NAYY,

-- Beverly

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I find Butterick and Vogue fit the best, as does Kwik Sew (though i don't have a local source for those patterns)

McCall's and Simplicity seem to be made for pe> Interested in what pattern company (McCall's, Simplicity, Kwik Sew, etc.) do

I make a lot of my own patterns because most of the people I sew for have major fitting issues. If I'm sewing for someone who will fit a commercial pattern without major redrafting, I almost always reach for one of the basic Kwik-Sew or Stretch and Sew patterns and go on from there -- they're almost always better engineered than the Big 4 patterns in my experience. I like Burda (but preferred the old ones without seam allowance -- it's that alteration thing again). I've used a couple of Jalie patterns

For plus sizes,I almost always start with one of Connie Crawford's patterns and for tailored things, I loveCecelia Podolak's patterns: they truly are classics. If I have to use a Big 4 pattern, I usually go for Butterick or Vogue.

There are also a lot of small patternmakers out there... you can get an idea of the variety here:

've heard good things about Christine Jonson, Cutting Line, Design andSew, Elements, Fashion Sewing Group, LaFred, LJ designs, Lorraine Torrence,Silhouttes, and Textile Studio from people I know who sew well; thereare probably a lot of other independent patternmakers just as good that I don't know about, or that I don't know anyone who has tried thatpattern line.

Kay Lancaster snipped-for-privacy@fern.com

I found you post vey interesting. If someone had asked "what is your least favorite pattern co.?" the answer would have been easy: Simplicity. I have recently made 2 Simplicity patterns and found the construction methods for both awkward and homemade looking. As for the fit, the items weren't for me so I can't say. Different strokes for different folks, as they say.

Kirsten Sollie Heimdal, Norway

Hi, I don't post often, but am always attentive to the very good advice in this newsgroup, thank you very much.

I prefer Butterick and Vogue in that order. I have found Simplicity and McCalls produce a homemade looking product. Their cut perhaps? With Butt and Vogue I always come out with that professional look... people are surprised when I tell them the garment is homemade.

Saludos Mora

If I want to make something in a hurry and want a pattern in my size then I go to Kwiksew If I want something fussy and time consuming to put together that requires a lot of fussy fitting, then I go to Vogue designer (often not in my size) If I want something inbetween the two I use la Fred patterns.

I like Butterick and Vogue Vintage stuff also.

I have not bought a McCalls or Simplicity pattern in a very long time.

liz young

Hmm....Nearly all of my patterns are Butterick, McCalls, or Simplicity. I grew up using them and altering them to fit my unique style. Never had anything turn out looking homemade....most people (barring those that know I sew) can't believe I make my own clothes because of how well they turn out.

Least favorite...Vogue, hands down the worst I have ever used. Of course, it could have just been the pattern I used, but I doubt it. I would like to try a different vogue pattern, but am scared that it would be as disastrous as my last one (which was fixed through the combined efforts of myself, my father, stepmother, and husband......advice offered, and extra hands to adjust pinning).

Larisa

Y'wanna say that to me? ;) I had to hack 8" out of two different Simplicity patterns, one a dress and one a top for a customer.

Gimmee Vogue every time! Especially their 'Advanced' ones. Fit well, go together like Lego, and look fab!

Mind you, I think I have also fallen in love with Margo Adamson's Elizabethan ones... They come with a 100 odd page tome of instructions, punched for lever arch file!

Kate (Sig line AWOL!)

Y'wanna say that to me? ;) I had to hack 8" out of two different Simplicity patterns, one a dress and one a top for a customer.

Gimmee Vogue every time! Especially their 'Advanced' ones. Fit well, go together like Lego, and look fab!

Mind you, I think I have also fallen in love with Margo Adamson's Elizabethan ones... They come with a 100 odd page tome of instructions, punched for lever arch file!

Kate (Sig line AWOL!)

Nope! :-) I _know_ you have the skills to measure correctly, so it must just be me. Truth be told, I haven't sewn much for myself since I put on weight, most of my sewing is for my daughters and granddaughter. I don't seem to have a sizing problem with Simplicity, though. Weird.

Oh, I quite agree about Vogue, It just hurts me to pay $25.00+ for a pattern. When I started sewing, patterns were US$ .25, yes that 25 CENTS! The Butterick pattern for my wedding gown (1960) was $ .75 (I just checked, and yes I saved that pattern). The pattern I'm altering for my DD's wedding gown is a sixteen-year-old Vogue ($15.00 even then) I bought to make a costume when she was in a play in High School, I saved it because she loved the style so much. :-)

No way am I picking a fight with Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons. :-)

-- Beverly

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I like Margo's (Anderson) patterns also, but I find the many modern techniques called for not to my taste. So I just use the patterns for the basic shapes and assemble them as I think they should go. The best part is that they come in a huge size range

liz young

Weird the way patterns go... I always cut the pattern according to the closed size to that measured, then do the alterations for personal fit, and then do a pin fit of the pattern to the person if at all possible. This is why for more complex patterns, if I have the time, I like to trace off the pattern. That way I always have the original to go back to, should things go wrong.

I really HATE making to measurements taken by someone else, even if they did use my 'How to take measurements' guide. The lass who came for a fitting on Tuesday was minute! I could have cut her pattern out two sizes smaller... LOTS of taking in! At least it wasn't the other way about... NO fabric left for a re-cut of a bodice or sleve.

Kate (Sig line AWOL!) I need to get DH to set it up again for me so iy pops up when I hit the reply or new message buttons.

I have patterns from most of the major companies, and most because they were on sale. I like Vogue for their special occasion things (both adult and children) and their maternity line. I also like the techniques they use in garment construction, which sometimes I'll refer to when using another pattern from another company (e.g. I didn't like the way a collar on a jacket was put together on a Butterick pattern, so I used the instructions to a similar Vogue pattern to finish it). I like Kwik Sew for my toddler's play clothes. The Kwik Sew for toddlers book is great and I can whip up things in no time. I've only tried a couple adult patterns from them, but they are both simple and straightforward. I sort of lump Simplicity, New Look, McCall's, and Butterick together. I find them to be ok. I like Simplicity for my DD because they have Daisy Kingdom and Disney costumes. As for fit, I guess I like Vogue for myself and Kwik Sew for my toddler best.

-j

Well, the paper pattern company I reach for most often isn't part of the "Big Four" and the patterns don't come "ready made". Being as I like to change a few things on a pattern with regard to pockets, collars, sleeves, etc., I don't want to have to dig through a box, look up a pattern, pull it out, then use a piece or two with the pattern I'm working on, only to misplace the pieces.

The paper pattern company I use is Sure Fit Designs. Glenda has done a wonderful job of explaining things and how to make design changes. Her patterns and all the instructions come in the form of "kits" and it's with these kits you make a master pattern, much like a muslin shell. I have bought three of her kits: shirt, dress, and pants, and the muslins I have made fit perfectly with few if any alterations. I like the idea of being able to place something on my table, mark it off, and watch the piece come to fruition. Then if I wanted to, I can add the design changes without much apprehension.

The kits are small boxes that fit nicely on a shelf and don't take up as much room as the regular pattern envelopes. You can use a kit for anyone's size and whether or not they are male or female; children have their own kit. I used my pants kit to make several pairs of pants for DH. Each of the master patterns have dots associated with a numbered measurement and when you lay paper over the top and connect the dots, you have a pattern. This might seem like a lot of work to some of you, but actually it's not. I would normally have to trace off the pattern from one of the Big Four companies, only to have the tissue tear, then make alterations, then make a shell, and then hope and pray it fit. This way, I am saving more time and I am getting something custom designed.

If I am in a big hurry, and I don't have anything created from SureFit, such as the nightgown I wanted a few weeks ago, I have a few KwikSew patterns that I am fond of. Their patterns are more tailored to the "real person" and not to one who has a model's figure.

I hate to admit I've never used Vogue. I guess the name has always intimidated me, but after reading this thread, I'm going to use them next.

I've run into problems with the others, but always assumed it was my fault. Example - right now I'm making a nightgown - first step (and pictures) had me iron interfacing on all four pieces of the yoke. Further on, it says to sew the uninterfaced front and back yoke to the body. Huh?

I've been sewing on and off (mostly off) for ~34-35 years, but always chose the easy stuff, instead of attempting to stretch my abilities. Jeesh I feel like I'm in confession ;>) You guys are inspiring me, though.

I made my MIL (who passed away Jan17th) a shirt waist dress according to her measurements, it turned out too small - I think the main problem was her arthritis, though, -her waist and hips were way out of alignment. Everything else I've made lately (using their measurements) has been too big. Which at least is easier to fix than too small.

Sharon - who is going to check to see when Vogue goes sale.

None of the above.

Except, perhaps, for a couple of Kwiksew and one or two Stretch and Sew. I have a heavy bust, but even the "fat lady" patterns don't work for me, as they are all designed for pear shaped figures, and mine is decidedly topheavy.

Which is why, after all these years of spending hours altering patterns to fit (and making muslins, and altering THEM, and trying again.......) I finally gave up and bought Wild Ginger pattern drafting software.

Olwyn Mary in New Orleans.

Like you, Kate, Vogue is the one for me. I used Advance(remember the ones Penney's sold in the 40s/50s) until one day they began disappearing, I bought a few Barrymores, until one day, an aunt asked me to make a Vogue for one of her clients. She owned a sewing shop and I helped her out after school sometimes. I was sold on Vogue from then on. I do buy another every once in a while for a DGC or one of my DD, if they can't find a Vogue that will satisfy them. Emily

Last week, Hancock's or JoAnn's had Vogue for $3.99 each, the entire stock on hand. Several times annaully, they can be found for 75% off at both stores and sometimes even online. I have not paid full price for any pattern in many years. Emily