polishing comparatives

Hello Bob,

Sounds like a lot of work. After the two coats of Formby's, why not use the Beall Buffing system to finish the bowl. It takes just a few minutes to buff a bowl on the three buffing wheels, even if you only have one mandrel and have to change buffs three times. You don't have to sand between coats. Just make sure the finish is dry before starting to buff. Beall uses two grits for buffing and then carnuba wax for a finish polish. Even a walnut oil finish polishes to a beautiful shine.

Fred Holder

Probably the P400. The Tung Oil Finish is a thinned oil/resin, and wants a little bit of "tooth" to adhere between coats. Since the coats will have the same refractive index, the top will blend visually while filling the scratches to bond mechanically.

I'd like to suggest the sanding sponges similar to item FA03553 at

a 320 grit. I find them a good compromise, substantive enough to give some leveling to the finish, but flexible enough to get into most curves without the edge streaks sandpaper alone can give. Just make sure to have a good grip on anything you use to avoid scoring and compressing the surface with an exposed fingernail. DAMHIKT Point of fact, it's also what I use, though with Wipe-on Poly or Antique oil finish.

Hi Bob

I would say, just what Fred says,........... I normally do use pure tung oil, from Lee Valley, takes maybe a little longer to cure, just make sure you get the wood finished well, and raise the grain and sand before your first coat, then a few (2 or 3) more coats and buff, wax and polish if you want a high shine, but make sure your coats are cured before putting the next one on.

Here's a link to some albums to peruse if you're interested, with some of my turnings etc.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo