Slightly OT-Compressors

I'm looking for a compressor for my shop--mostly to move dust around and clean up but also to nail & brad a few small projects--nothing like framing or roofing.

Anyone have any suggestions? How are these Kobalt compressors Lowe's sells? Since this is probably a one time purchase I'm less concerned with money (up to maybe $300) than reliability.

Thanks,

Tom in Howell, NJ

Reply to
Teejay
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I have an old 3/4 horse Cambell Hausfeld that fits the bill well. I think they are under $200 now. Never mind what I paid for mine :-) or how long ago :-)

Reply to
Darrell Feltmate

I can't tell you about brands of compressors but If you can, pipe as much as possible in stead of relying on hoses. I have four connections around the shop and one at the garage door for airing up tires etc. outside.

Reply to
Pat Salter

The "oil-less" models are hyped for their low maintenance, but they are LOUD! Save your hearing and get one that uses oil. It's not a big deal to change the oil every year.

Reply to
Mark Fisher

Just a word of warning. Don't buy anything too cheap or small, because after you have compressed air available in your shop you will find all kinds of good uses for it and wish you had bought a better compressor. It's amazing how much you can do with it and you will kick yourself for not buying one sooner. The oil type compressor lasts longer if you maintain it and it is much quieter than the oil-less type. A good size to start with is around 6-8 CFM at 90 PSI. It's big enough easily to run one tool at a time of almost anything that you might like to run except for a sand blaster. It will even handle a spray gun. You should be able to easily find one this size within your $300 budget. Some of the best deals that I've seen lately were at Tractor Supply but the Borgs have pretty good prices on them too.

Reply to
Charley

charley's suggestions are good - note also, buy CFM, don't even look at the horsepower - I've seen 8 HP comperessors that put out less than my old 2 hp sears compressor, and that would (at 7.2 cfm) barely keep up with a spray gun - I have a larger compressor now (Quincy) of the type that one finds in a commercial outfit - very much nicer - it has a pressurized oiling system with a real oil pump and a real oil pressure gauge - the sears unit used a splash system (like a lawm mower engine).

Reply to
William Noble

We know they are lying about horse power why would they tell the truth about CMF ?

Reply to
Walt & Jenne Ahlgrim

Sept. 2006 American Woodworker has an article on choosing compact compressors and an article on plumbing your shop with hoses. I have been looking also and maybe one day I will get one. I have found that up to 26 to 30 gallon tanks are 110 VAC and above that is 220VAC. Now my shop doesn't have 220 and I don't see it in the future. I too have been looking at Lowes and Home Depot. I will keep in mind the 6-8 CMF at 90 PSI. Good info from everyone, thanks

Bruce

Teejay wrote:

Reply to
Bruce Ferguson

Reply to
William Noble

I looked at lots of small portable "nailer-sized" compressors. All I wanted was something big enough to blow off shavings off my lathe and spray finish on some small items. All it took to change my mind was hearing one of the small oilless compressors run.

I switched strategies and bought a 6 HP upright oil-lube model with a

60-gallon tank from Home Depot. I can blow shavings all day long before it ever kicks on. And its quieter when it does run. The trade-off? It ain't very portable........unless you have a fork lift and a 220 volt extension cord.

Reply to
Barry N. Turner

Barry... how much was the compressor? Mac

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Reply to
mac davis

I have thought about it, but I would have to get it there as the main is towards the other end of the house. ( the panel is in the middle of the house and the garage is on the other side of an enclosed car port, my office. Conduit would have to be run externally) I would like to have a sub panel as I run everything off a lighting circuit. Is there a rule of thumb as how big the sub-panel can be?? The main is 100 amp. I am guessing you would run your wires and terminate them with a 220 breaker like for an oven or cloths dryer. What the would be I don't know. Then the sub panel would have a main and then breakers for your 220 circuits or 110 circuits. The size of these would depend on the tools attached to them. Thanks for your input.

Bruce

William Noble wrote:

Reply to
Bruce Ferguson

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William Noble

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Bruce Ferguson

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