Quick AD - new lampwork auction, fairy cubes

:) Wow - you are close! Thanks for the bid, Pam. :)

vj found this in rec.crafts.beads, from "Kandice Seeber" :

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"Fairy Dice" Lampwork Bead Cube SetOH. MY. GODS.

i don't know how you keep upstaging yourself, but you DO!

----------- @vicki [SnuggleWench] (Books)

's not what you take, when you leave this world behind you;it's what you leave behind you when you go. -- Randy Travis

VERY VERY COOL!!!

In the future, they'll be talking about your cubist period.

-- KarenK Desert Dreamer Designs

Store:

yeah, i want to eat them too!!!! :D

KANDICE KANDICE KANDICE -- YOU'RE KILLING US HERE!!!!! (sorry for yelling)

ang. ____________________________ angelfish handcrafted baubles

"Kandice Seeber" wrote ...> "Fairy Dice" Lampwork Bead Cube Set

I am definitely going to do more cubes. ;) As for the dichro - I am not entirely sure how to work that stuff without scumming it all over the place. But I definitely will try. :)

Thanks for the kind words!

Okay, here's a few hints. I've evolved from utter frustration (including tossing a piece across the room in rage) to loving the damned stuff, and I think I've got a pretty good handle on it now.

#1, only work with annealed strips. Either have a "fusing day" and cut and do it yourself, or save the kiln time and buy the precut, prefused/annealed strips from a good source like Frantz or Arrow Springs. Annealing the dichro affixes the metal coating to the glass more thoroughly, and the fused rounded edges make it more manageable and much less scummy. It's also less shocky than cut-from-the-sheet strips.

#2 Work very cool and slowly. Patience is the key. Keep your strip (talking clear, here, not black glass backed) with the coated side facing away from the flame at all times. I work as far out as possible, with a slightly oxidizing flame. Focus the heat right at the elbow between the strip and the connection with the bead, and "rock" it slightly up and down. Don't just lay the dichro on, give it a little push as you apply it. Air bubbles will cause scumming, and the glass will want to rise up, causing the edges to scum.

#3 As soon as it's applied, go back to the beginning and flash it so it doesn't shock. Return to a neutral flame and begin to rewarm it. As soon as you see the surface glowing either marver it, or take a flat tool (I love my dental spatula for this) and push the clear class against the bead surface. Nudge it side to side so clear glass is covering the edges of the dichro. A little bit sneaking up isn't terrible, it can actually look pretty as long as you don't overheat it. If you plan to put more glass over it, start by striping the edge of the dichro to seal it in, then go ahead and do whatever you want to it.

If you have any specific questions, ask away!

-- KarenK Desert Dreamer Designs

Store:

Thanks for the tips, Karen! One point I am confused on is whether to apply with the dichro sode down or up (on the bead with the clear glass covering it?). If so, how do you keep the dichro side away from the flame, if you're applying it directly to the bead? Sorry for the confusion - I am a visual person, so reading instructions is not one of my strong points. :) Otherwise, all the tips sound great. I have only ever worked with the dichro bought in annealed strips from Frantz. Never the freshly cut stuff, thank goodness. :)

I love it! Soooo pretty!

Work it slow, in a slightly reducing flame, farther from the torch than you usually work, coated side away from the flame, and encase it immediately, before shaping the bead.

Wow! These are gorgeous!