Panel size?

Ahhhh....why not go for a 8'x8' panel? You can do it!!!

We can get you a video tape with some helpful how to do it tips.

My rule of thumb is that I never build or buy anything any bigger or heavier than my wife can carry comfortably. ;>)

Huh? Probably sounding stupid - didn't know you can make 'em that big so might as well ask then, just how big *can* one make a panel? Bart.

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Bart i would go with 8 square as a rule of thumb (but depending on design) without having to use re-bar and i use foil. I have done much larger (with foil) using re-inforcing.m

Like I said, probably sounding stupid (like who am I kidding eh...) - in all of the *one* books on stained glass I own there's no discussion on this and in the "So you wanna make a sun catcher" books that are available around here only there's no mention of it either. So Moonraker, save me the postage and handling on the video :) what's the biggest you've seen your wife carry? And Michelle, I assume you're not talking about [aluminum] siding squares... :) Hmmm, flipping over an 8'X8' piece to solder the other side, that'd be another adventure, woudn't it... Bart.

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I think the best bet would be to build a frame work that would accomodate panels that are 2 feet by 2 feet. Provided you want a symmetrical look. You could build a framework that would hold panels of various sizes...all depending on what the design is.

I've seen residential palladium windows all one piece that are 7'w by

lots of the bigger windows are sectional, in that there is a "T" and or "L" section of angle iron going across the opening, forming a welded frame that the decorative glass is set into. The angle is attached to the building window jambs and sills, and the SG is glazed into those frames. From a distance, the angle looks like a big lead line.

IIRC, you are in the frozen North? Wouldn't you want to put some tempered glass in this project to protect the artwork from the elements?

Moon is just pulling your chain. Your best bet is to contact your local SG pro, and ask them what design can make you totally happy Bart. Email me and I'll try to get you to the right place.

if I seal it off like that I can't huck snowballs at the polar bears ;) I wouldn't be enclosing it to make it part of the house, more like a bus stop shelter sorta thing so it'd be decorative, not functional. That is of course, if she lets me... Bart.

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as far as I know I'm the only one in the area doing came panels... Any rules of thumb you go by when it comes to how big panels could/should be? Bart.

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A bunch of factors include your design, work tables, ability to install.

All kidding aside...the panels have to be built to fit the openings you want to fill. The construction of the panels and the required reinforcment is a direct function of the size of the panels, the wind load, vibration from trucks on the street, avalanches, or airplanes, and in your case, the elements. Someone suggested copper foil. I'd reject that because of the exposure to the elements. Many 27"x67" front door panels have done very well with no reinforcement and made from lead, framed in zinc. If you do your own design, watch out for "fold lines". Those would be lead lines in the design that go all the way across the panel, which would allow the panel to fold up on itself. Many intersecting lines are stronger. Use lead, and ask Java for his cement receipe that will withstand the weather you have. Personally, whenever a panel gets to about 42" square, they get hard to handle and I begin to think of re-bar. Smaller than that is ususally not a problem....of course, craftsmanship enters into this, too. Tightly fitted lead and lead joints will make for a tighter panel, IMO.