recently, I encountered soldering problems, and it is as follow:
-I am soldering 7/32 H lead to ½" H lead flat
-as usual, I brush, with a brass brush, both pieces where I am going to
-I apply fluxa, start soldering.
-The solder will not stick to the ½" lead. Actaully, it is kind of
repelled....... but it is adhering well onto the 7/32" H.
-If I rub the ½"H many time with my iron tip, it improves, but is not
-Elsewhere, it is find.
Would someone have an explanation why, even if the ½" H was brushed and
fluxed, it would repel the soldering.
Thanks for your help
Yup, gots a bit of oxidation, maybe, on there and the brass brush isn't
taking it off and the flux, (what kind?) isn't "wetting" the surface enough
to tin it.
Try this, on a piece of scrap lead, DO put a couple of pieces of scrap
glass on the table also, put the scrap glass together with the scrap pieces
of the offending lead, if you like using the brass brush, keep doing so, (I
don't , but I should), with a fairly clean tip on your iron, flux, (but not
overly wet) the joint, place the end of your solder on the lead, lay the
lead on the solder, and "stir" it slightly. OK, that's probably the way you
already solder, but instead of adding more solder, flux it again, heating
the metal to solder temp, but under the temp to melt it, until the surface
"tins" and flows properly. The flux needs the heat to work, and clean. That
is a bit time consuming, but it does work. There may be a film on the
surface too, and not oxidation.
Just in case your manufacturer is using some sort of "lube' in their die for
extruding the lead, try wiping the joint with mineral spirits on a towel
with turp and whiting, figuring the "lube" may be wax base or graphite.
You want to try these things in case there is a film on the lead surface and
I should mention I use a BIG iron when I solder wide leads just because I
don't want a problem with heat sink, so look at your iron tip too.
Let's hear how it works or if I am off base.