Bernina 153QE owner's manual

BERNINA

Instruction Manual & Sewing Manual

virtuosa 153 BERNINA® Made in Switzerland

OE QUILTER'S EDITION

virtuosa 163 BERNINA® Made in Switzerland

Safety instructions

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using an electrical machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following.

Read all instructions before using this sewing computer.

When the machine is not in use, it should be disconnected from the electricity supply by removing the plug from the outlet.

DANGER

To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. A machine should never be left unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug this machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
3. Always unplug before replacing light bulb. Replace the bulb with the same type rated 12 volts/5 watts.

WARNING

To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this machine is used by or near children.
2. Use machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this machine if · it has a damaged cord or plug · it is not working properly · it has been dropped or damaged · it has fallen into water Return the machine to the nearest authorized BERNINA dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing needle.
6. Always use the BERNINA original needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
7. Do not use bent needles.
8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
9. Turn power switch to «0» when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading or changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot.
10. Always unplug the sewing computer from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual.
11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
12. Do not use outdoors.
13. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
14. Before disconnecting, turn all controls to the off («0») position then remove the plug from the outlet.
15. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord but grasp the plug.
16. No responsibility will be taken for any possible damage as the result of misuse of the machine.
17. This machine is provided with double insulation. Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for Servicing of Double-Insulated machines.

SERVICING DOUBLE-INSULATED PRODUCTS

In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double-insulated product nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should only be done by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a double-insulated product must be identical to those parts in the product. A double insulated product is marked with the words «DOUBLE INSULATION» or «DOUBLE INSULATED».

The symbol □ may also be marked on the product.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS!

This sewing computer is intended for household use only.

2

BERNINA®

"Welcome to the BERNINA family"

H.P. Ueltschi Owner BERNINA Sewing Machine Company

Choosing BERNINA is a decision which will have a positive impact on your sewing for years to come. Customer satisfaction has been the driving force of our family company for over 100 years and I intend to continue that tradition of delivering superb Swiss quality, future-oriented sewing technology and unparalleled customer service.

The new BERNINA family of creative sewing computers gives you the unique opportunity to select a la carte what you need to satisfy your sewing needs and requirements.

In addition a wide range of sewing accessories together with supportive educational publications full of practical and creative ideas add to the joy of sewing the BERNINA WAY.

It gives me great pleasure to welcome you into the BERNINA family.

Fritz Gegauf Ltd. · BERNINA Sewing Machines · CH-8266 Steckborn / Switzerland

Contents

3

Setting up the machine

Operating instructions

Stitches Presser feet

Needle and thread Fabric feed

Cleaning Maintenance Trouble shooting

Index

Details

4 Details of the machine

Front view

Back view

Details

5

Left end

1 Bobbin cover 2 Stitch plate 3 Attachment base 4 Darning ring fixation hole 5 Presser foot 6 Needle clamp 7 Thread guide 8 Needle threader 9 Thread regulator 10 Thread slit 11 Thread take-up 12 Tension adjustment wheel 13 Bobbin pre-tension 14 Quick reverse button 15 Screen 16 Bobbin winder with on/off switch and thread cutter 17 Stitch width 18 Needle position 19 Stitch length 20 Continuous reverse Stitch counter buttonhole selector 21 Securing function 22-1/2 speed 23 clr-button 24 Mirror image 25 Pattern end 26 Needle stop up-down 27 mem 28 Alphabet 29 Stitch selection 30 Stitch group selection 31 CPS – Customized Pattern Selection 32 FHS Presser foot lifter fixation hole 33 Handwheel 34 Balance 35 On/off power switch 36 Plug socket 37 Drop feed dog 38 Foot control socket 39 Presser foot lifter 40 Carrying handle 41 Spool pins 42 Sewing table socket 43 Thread cutter 44 Presser foot pressure 45 PC serial port

Right end

Setting up the machine

Carrying case

Carrying case · protects machine from dust and dirt · compartment for accessories

Accessories · foot control · instruction manual · power cable · warranty card · presser foot lifter (FHS) · sewing table (attached) To remove the sewing table, lift slightly and remove.

To remove the case · grasp both sides · pull off vertically

Note: The separate spool pin must be removed to put the case on.

Accessory box

Standard accessories*: · 5 bobbins · Needle selection 130/705H · Seam ripper · Small screwdriver · Special screwdriver · Brush · Seam guide

· Reverse feed foot No.1 · Overlook foot No. 2* · Buttonhole foot No. 3 · Buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A · Zipper foot No. 4 · Blind stitch foot No. 5 · Jeans foot No. 8** · Darning foot No. 9* · Open embroidery foot No. 20* · Quilt foot No. 29* · Patchwork foot No. 37***

· Height compensating plates · Supplementary spool pin · 3 spool discs

* can vary from country to country ** Available as special accessory for virtuosa 153 QE *** Available as special accessory for virtuosa 163

Setting up the machine

Power cable

The power cable is stored in the case · plug A into machine · plug B into wall socket

Foot control cable · plug C into machine

Important! (USA/Canada only) This sewing computer has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Foot control

The foot control regulates the sewing speed · raise or lower the needle by tapping on the foot control with your heel

Important! (USA/Canada only) Use only foot controller type LV1 or LV2 with sewing computers virtuosa 153/163.

Self storing cord · wind the cord on the reel · insert the plug into A

When sewing · slip the cable unwound to the desired length in B or C

Power switch

The switch is on the handwheel side of the machine 1 the machine is switched on 0 the machine is switched off

The sewing light is switched on and off with the power switch.

Refer to the safety instructions!

Sewing table

Increases the sewing surface

To attach · place over the free arm and press firmly so that it engages on the fixing cam

To remove · pull to the left · remove

Seam guide · insert into the groove (underside of table) from the right · it can be freely adjusted over the whole width of the table

Scale · number «0» corresponds to the centre needle position

FHS (Free Hand System) presser foot lifter

The presser foot lifter raises and lowers the presser foot Push to the right · the presser foot is raised · the feed-dog is lowered simultaneously · the feed-dog is raised as soon as the first stitch is sewn

Attaching the presser foot lifter The presser foot lifter is stored in the case · insert the presser foot lifter into the opening in the base plate You should be able to operate the lifter with your knee in your normal sitting position

Note: Your dealer can adjust it if necessary.

Setting up the machine

Winding the bobbin

Winding the bobbin · turn power switch on · place empty bobbin on spindle

· following the direction of the arrow take thread through the rear guide and round the pre-tension stud · wind it several times round the empty bobbin · press the engaging lever against the bobbin · press the foot control · the motor will stop automatically when the bobbin is full · remove the bobbin

· cut the thread on the thread cutter

Bobbin case

To remove · raise the needle · turn power switch to «0» · open the accessory box cover · open the bobbin cover · grasp the latch of the bobbin case · remove case

To insert · hold the bobbin case latch · the finger on the case should point upwards · insert so that it engages until it clicks · close the bobbin cover · close the accessory box cover

Bobbin thread cutter · insert the bobbin case · take the thread over the cutter A · thread is cut

Note: The bobbin thread does not have to be brought up as the loose end is just the right length to start sewing.

Refer to the safety instructions!

Inserting the bobbin

Insert the bobbin so that the thread runs clockwise.

Pull the thread counter clockwise into the slot.

Pull the thread to the left under the spring until it lies in the T-shaped slit at the end of the spring.

The bobbin must turn clockwise when thread is pulled.

Setting up the machine

Changing the needle

Removing the needle · raise the needle · turn power switch to «0» · remove the presser foot · loosen the needle clamp screw · pull the needle down to remove

Inserting the needle · flat side of needle to the back · insert the needle as far as it will go · tighten the needle clamp

Refer to the safety instructions!

Changing the presser foot

Presser foot with shank · raise the needle and presser foot · turn power switch to 0

· raise the clamping lever · remove the presser foot

Attaching the presser foot · guide the foot upwards over the cone · press the clamping lever down

Refer to the safety instructions!

Supplementary spool pin

Vertical spool pin · the supplementary (vertical) spool pin is stored with the accessories · push it from right to left in the opening provided · pull it to the right to remove · essential when sewing with more than one thread, e.g. for double needle work

Setting up the machine

Threading the upper thread

· raise the needle and presser foot · turn the power switch to 0 · place spool on pin and attach the appropriate spool disc – diameter of spool = disc size · take thread through rear guide A · then into slit of upper thread tension · pull thread down to the right of the take-up cover to B · then up to the left of the cover to C · and down through guides D and E

Refer to the safety instructions!

Needle threader

· lower the presser foot · lay the thread behind hook A and hold lightly

· press lever B down

· take the thread in front of the needle C · pass the thread from the bottom to the top of the needle until it catches in the hook

· let go of lever B and thread · pull the thread loop through the needle eye

Bringing up the lower thread

· hold the upper thread · sew one stitch · pull the upper thread until the bobbin thread appears in the stitch plate hole · pull bobbin thread out of the hole and insert both threads through the slit in the presser foot towards the back · pull threads over the cutter

Note: The bobbin thread must be brought up through the stitch plate for certain types of work. The length of thread is sufficient for most normal work if the lower thread cutter has been used.

Thread cutter

• pull both threads from front to back over the cutter
• the threads release as soon as the first stitch is sewn

Stitch plate

Stitch plate markings

• the stitch plate is marked with seam guide lines in mm and inches
• the millimetre markings are at the front
• the inch markings are at the back
• the measurements indicate the distance from the needle to the lines
• the needle insertion point is 0 (= needle position centre)
• lines are provided to the right and left of the needle
• they are very useful guide lines for precise seaming
• the horizontal lines are useful for buttonholes, etc.

Thread tension

The basic setting

• is indicated when the red line on the tension adjustment wheel is in line with the marking A.
• the tension does not need adjusting for normal sewing work.
• for special sewing work, the tension can be adjusted to suit the fabric.

To reduce the tension

• turn to between 3 and 1

To increase the tension

• turn to between 5 and 10

The tension can react differently when sewing with unusual threads and it is necessary to adjust the tension and select a needle which suits the thread.

For example:

Feed-dog

Button flush with base plate = sewing position

Button depressed = feed-dog is lowered

• for free-hand sewing (darning, embroidery, etc.)

Operating instructions

General instructions

Main switch to 1 · the machine is ready to sew

The screen shows 1 stitch width basic setting blinks constantly 2 stitch length basic setting blinks constantly 3 needle position (9 positions) 4 needle stop up/down (generally up) 5 stitch number 1 (straight stitch) 6 presser foot indicator (recommended foot for selected stitch)

Stitch selection · press the appropriate button – the number and basic stitch length and width settings appear on the screen

· These buttons are to select vertically arranged stitches

Stitch width · left button = narrow the stitch · right button = widen the stitch

Needle position · left button = needle to the left · right button = needle to the right

Stitch length · left button = shorten the length · right button = elongate the length

Needle stop adjustment · press button = needle stop down · machine stops with needle down (in fabric) · press button = needle stop up

clr/del-button · deletes altered basic settings · deletes selected functions Exceptions: · needle stop up/down · altered basic settings for buttonhole · 1/2 speed

Operating instructions

Functions

Functions are activated when the symbol appears on the screen. Functions are deactivated when the symbols no longer appear on the screen.

Continuous reverse/stitch counter buttonhole selector · machines sews permanently in reverse · also serves as the stitch counter buttonhole selector when the buttonhole menu is open

Stitch end · machine stops at the end of a single stitch or stitch combination

Quick reverse · press the button · sews in reverse until the button is released · programs buttonholes · programs darning lengths · switches to straight stitch securing program (stitch No. 5) · manual securing beginning and end of seam

Needle stop up/down · machine stops with needle up · press needle stop down button machine stops with needle down

Securing function · secures the beginning and ending of single stitches and stitch combinations

mem (Memory) · press the centre-button to open memory (capacity of 30) · use the left and mem+-buttons to scroll and programme stitches, letters and numbers

clr/del · clears functions such as basic settings, stitch length, stitch width, needle positions, mirror image, single pattern Exceptions: needle stop down, altered basic settings for buttonholes, 1/2 speed, continuous reverse

Altered stitch Memory · any stitch length, stitch width or needle position alterations for all stitches will be saved automatically · all stitches will be reverted to basic settings using clr/del · all altered settings in Altered stitch Memory are lost when the machine is turned off

1/2 speed · press the button and the sewing speed will be cut by half · press the button again to revert to full sewing speed

Letters, numbers (block letters on virtuosa 153 QE) · centre-button · select the letter style; the style selected will appear on the screen

• · press the right button to scroll letters and numbers forwards A B C ........
• · press the left button to scroll letters and numbers backwards 9 8 7 ........

Mirror image · mirror image of selected stitch will be sewn

Letters/numbers/punctuation marks ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRST UVWXYZ_ -.'!?%()[]JÄÖÜÅ ÆŒØÑÉÊÀÂ0123456789

Operating instructions

Buttonholes

All buttonholes can be sewn in all styles.

Preparation · thread the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case · use Buttonhole foot No. 3 or 3A

14

Buttonholes are not only practical closures, they can also be used to decorative effect

· No. 9 Standard buttonhole · No. 10 Narrow standard buttonhole (virtuosa 163 only) · No. 11 Stretch buttonhole (virtuosa 163 only) · No. 12 Keyhole buttonhole · No. 13 Straight stitch eyelet

Select the buttonhole of your choice, the following appears on the screen: 1 Buttonhole number 2 Buttonhole symbol 3 Presser foot number

Manual 4/6 step buttonhole (all types)

Manual buttonholes are particularly suitable for single buttonholes or for repairing existing buttonholes. Individual steps can be eliminated or repeated. The number of steps corresponds to the buttonhole type. Manual buttonholes cannot be saved.

Manual multiple-step standard and stretch buttonhole

Both beads are sewn in the same direction.

Preparation: · Buttonhole foot No. 3 · insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case

The individual steps blink on the screen

1. sew the first bead forward, stop the machine, press the quick reverse-button
2. sew reverse straight stitch, stop the machine at the first stitch (buttonhole begin), press the quick reverse-button
3. sew the top bar tack and the second bead, stop the machine, press the quick reverse-button
4. sew the bottom bar tack and securing stitches

Operating instructions

Manual multiple-step keyhole buttonhole

The individual steps blink on the screen. Sew both forward and reverse beads at the same speed.

1. sew straight stitch forwards, stop the machine, press the quick reverse-button
2. sew the eye and the first bead in reverse, stop the machine at the first stitch (buttonhole begin), press the quick reverse-button
3. sew straight stitch forwards and stop at the keyhole, press the quick reverse-button
4. sew the second bead in reverse, stop the machine at the first stitch (buttonhole begin), press the quick reverse-button
5. sew bartack and securing stitches

Manual buttonhole: example see page 22 of the Sewing Manual

Automatic standard and *stretch buttonholes with auto length

• virtuosa 163 only

(When sewing any type of automatic buttonhole, presser foot No. 3 is displayed at the beginning until programming the first bead length)

Both beads are sewn in the same direction.

Automatic buttonhole

· when using Buttonhole foot 3A the length of the buttonhole is automatically registered by the lens on the foot · the sewing sequence is indicated on the screen

The step currently being sewn blinks on the screen.

Programme the buttonhole

1. sew the first bead forwards, stop the machine · press the quick reverse-button · auto and presser foot 3A are indicated on the screen = the buttonhole length is programmed
2. the machine sews reverse straight stitch automatically
3. the first bar tack
4. the second bead forwards
5. the second bar tack and securing stitches · machine stops and returns automatically to buttonhole begin All subsequent buttonholes will be sewn to exactly the same length (no need to press the quick reverse-button)

Press the clr/del-button to delete the programme The programmed buttonhole can be saved in the long term memory (see page 18)

Compensating plates for buttonholes (special accessory) If a buttonhole is to be sewn horizontally to the edge of the garment, it is worth using the compensating plates. This accessory provides an even surface for the buttonhole foot with slide which results in a perfect buttonhole (see Sewing Manual tips page 21).

Operating instructions

Automatic keyhole buttonhole

16

Both beads are sewn in the same direction.

Automatic keyhole buttonhole · when using Buttonhole foot 3A the length of the buttonhole is automatically registered by the lens on the foot

Marking the buttonhole Mark the bead length only. The correct eye length will be added when the buttonhole is sewn. The sewing sequence is indicated on the screen.

The step currently being sewn blinks on the screen.

Programming the buttonhole

1. sew the straight stitch forward, stop the machine, · press the quick reverse-button · auto and presser foot 3A are displayed on the screen = buttonhole length is programmed

2. the machine automatically sews the eye
3. the first bead in reverse
4. sews second straight stich
5. sews second bead in reverse
6. sews bartack and securing stitches · the machine stops and returns automatically to buttonhole begin · all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn to exactly the same length (without pressing the quick reverse-button)

Press the clr/del-button to delete the programme. The programmed buttonhole can be saved in the long term memory (see page 18).

Automatic keyhole buttonhole: Example see p. 24 of the Sewing Manual

Operating instructions

Stitch counter buttonholes (all types)

The first bead is sewn forwards, the second bead in reverse. Sew forward and reverse beads at the same speed.

Preparation: · Buttonhole foot No. 3 or Automatic foot 3A · insert the lower thread into the finger of the bobbin case

Always test sew buttonholes · test on the fabric and stabilizer you intend to use · sew buttonholes in the same grain direction (with or against)

Programmed buttonholes on other fabrics · the appearance of a programmed stitch counter buttonhole can vary depending on the fabric · program on the fabric you intend to use

Corrections · the buttonhole must be reprogrammed after altering the stitch length, width or balance · test sew on the fabric you intend to use

Select buttonhole · press the reverse-sewing-button with the buttonhole symbol to select stitch counter buttonholes · auto and presser foot No. 3 blinks on screen

The step currently being sewn blinks on the screen

1. sew the first bead forwards and stop the machine · press the quick reverse-button
2. sew the bottom bartack or eye and the second bead in reverse · stop the machine at the first stitch (buttonhole begin) · press the quick reverse-button
3. sew the top bartack and securing stitches · the machine stops automatically · «auto» appears on the screen = the buttonhole is programmed all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn to exactly the same length without interruption and the machine stops automatically at the end of each buttonhole

Press the clr/del-button to delete the programme

Note: Stitch counter buttonhole cannot be saved in the long term memory

Stitch counter buttonholes: examples see page 25 of the Sewing Manual

Operating instructions

Saving programmed buttonholes in long term memory

· after programming press the mem⁺-button · the buttonhole is now saved in long term memory · stitch counter buttonholes cannot be saved in long term memory

Opening saved buttonholes

Programmed saved buttonholes can be opened for re-use even after the machine has been disconnected. · select the buttonhole · press the mem-button · sew the programmed buttonhole · only one of any style buttonhole can be saved, if a new length is saved with mem⁺, it overwrites the previously saved buttonhole

The automatic darning program can be saved and opened in the same way as programmed buttonholes.

Altering buttonholes

· alterations to the stitch length and width affect both beads · after altering the stitch length, program the buttonhole again · altered stitch length/widths can be deleted by pressing the clr/del-button

Balance

· any changes to the balance affect both beads of manual and auto length buttonholes because both beads are sewn in the same direction · any distortions to keyhole buttonholes can be corrected with balance · changes to the balance of stitch counter buttonholes affect the beads as shown in the illustration · balance affects the individual beads and the eye

When altering the bead density with balance, delete the programmed buttonhole with clr/del. Re-program with altered balance settings.

Note: When all buttonholes have been sewn, return balance to the normal setting

Memory

Any combination of 30 stitches, letters of numbers can be saved in Memory, which is long term. They remain saved until deleted by the user. Power failures or disconnection from the electricity supply do not affect the Memory. Alterations to the stitch length, width or needle position can be made at any time. Individual stitches, letters or numbers can be deleted or overwritten.

Memory – User buttons

• use the left button to scroll the contents backwards
• use the centre button to open and close the memory
• use the right mem$^+$-button to save and forward scroll

19

Screen display

• press the mem-button
• memory is open, mem is displayed
• the cursor appears to the left and the number – «30» in our example – of the empty memory bank blinks

Stitches selected

• are indicated with numbers

Letters and numbers

• indicated to the right of the word mem
• block (153 and 163)
• double block (163 only)
• italics (163 only)

• the selected letter/number appears, e.g. E

Operating instructions

Programming practical and decorative stitches

Open memory

· press the mem-button · the cursor appears to the left, the number of available memory spaces (30) blinks and the word mem appears

· select a stitch, e.g. 21 · stitch number appears on the screen

· press the mem$^{+}$ (save) button · the stitch is programmed

· the number of available memory spaces appears (cursor and memory spaces blink)

· select the next stitch · press the mem$^{+}$-button to save · continue in the same manner

Scroll backwards · press the left button · the programmed stitches are scrolled backwards

Scroll forwards · press the mem$^{+}$-button · the programmed stitches are scrolled forwards

Sew begin When the foot control is pressed, the machine starts sewing the pattern combination. If the Pattern End function is selected, the sewing computer stops at the end of the pattern combination.

Programming letters and numbers

Open memory

· press the mem-button · the cursor appears to the left, the number of available memory spaces (30) blinks and the word mem appears

Delete complete memory contents · press the clr/del-button, keep depressed and press the mem-button · release both buttons · leave memory by pressing mem-button again · memory is now cleared

Operating instructions

Select letter style

· press the alphabet-button until the style you want appears on the screen · the letter A in the style of your choice appears on the screen

Selecting letters/numbers

· press the right button · the letters A-Z appear · press the left button · the numbers 0–9 appear

Programming letters/numbers

· select letter/number · press mem+ (save) button · letter/number is programmed · the number of empty memory spaces is indicated (number and cursor blink) · select the next letter/number · press mem+-button and continue · programming several words · to insert a space, select ( _ ) and save · programme the next word · if adjustments are made to the stitch length or width, all programmed letters will be affected · if only single letters or numbers are to be altered, each must be altered individually

21

Corrections in memory

Overwriting stitches, letters or numbers

· press the mem+ or left button and scroll to the stitch you wish to overwrite

· select the new character · press mem+-button to save · the original stitch is replaced (overwritten) by the new one

Deleting stitches, letters or numbers

· press the mem-button and scroll to the stitch you wish to delete · press the clr/del-button · the stitch is deleted

Leave memory

· press the mem-button · all entries are saved and memory closes

The word mem disappears from the screen

The contents of the memory remain saved even when the machine is disconnected from the electricity supply. They can be recalled at any time.

The contents of the memory will be lost if the sewing computer is switched off without pressing the mem-button before closing the memory.

Additional information is provided in the Sewing Manual (page 8, 9).

Operating instructions

Balance

22

Balance For balancing forward and reverse sewn stitches and for fine stitch length adjustments.

Note: If the balance has been adjusted, return it to the normal setting once sewing is completed.

Normal position

Denser stitch formation (shorter stitch length)

Finer stitch formation (longer stitch length)

Applications: Practical stitches, e.g. Honeycomb stitch on jersey, decorative stitches, fantasy stitches, letters, button-holes, etc.

Presser foot pressure

Pressure adjustment left end of machine

Standard pressure · for normal sewing work

Reduced pressure · for jerseys and loose knits · to prevent fabric stretching · adjust pressure so that the fabric still feeds correctly

Increased pressure · slippery, light weight fabrics improves fabric feed

Stitches

Stitch selection

CPS (Customized Pattern Selection) CPS allows you to replace pre-programmed stitches with others of your own choice from a selected range of practical and decorative stitches available from your BERNINA dealer. virtuosa 153 QE = 12, virtuosa 163 = 18 replacement stitches

Practical and decorative stitches virtuosa 153 QE 1 Straight stitch 2 Zig-zag 3 Vari-overlock 4 Running stitch 5 Securing stitch 6 Triple straight and zig-zag 7 Blind stitch 8 Double overlock 9 Standard buttonhole 10 Keyhole buttonhole 11 Straight stitch eyelet 12 Darning program 13 Super stretch stitch 14 Honeycomb stitch 15 Jersey stitch 16 Stretch overlock 17–28 Replacement practical and decorative stitches (CPS)

Practical and decorative stitches virtuosa 163 1 Straight stitch 2 Zig-zag 3 Vari-overlock 4 Running stitch 5 Securing stitch 6 Triple straight and zig-zag 7 Blind stitch 8 Double overlock 9 Standard buttonhole 10 Standard buttonhole narrow 11 Stretch buttonhole 12 Keyhole buttonhole 13 Straight stitch eyelet 14 Darning program 15 Super stretch stitch 16 Honeycomb stitch 17 Jersey stitch 18 Stretch overlock 19 Universal stitch 20 Gathering stitch 21–38 Replacement practical and decorative stitches (CPS)

Stitches

Stitch selection virtuosa 153 QE

1 Straight stitch All non-stretch fabrics. All straight stitch work.

2 Zig-zag Most fabric types. All simple zig-zag such as oversewing fine fabrics. Sewing on elastic and lace.

3 Vari-overlock Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch overlock seams and hems.

4 Running stitch Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams.

5 Securing stitch All types of fabric. Secures the beginning and end of seams sewn with straight stitch.

6 Triple straight and Reinforced seams in tough, heavy fabrics. triple zig-zag

7 Blind stitch Most types of fabric. Blind hems, shell edging on soft jerseys and fine fabrics, decorative seams.

8 Double overlock All types of knit. Overlock = sew and neaten in one operation.

13 Super stretch Open seam for all super-stretch fabrics.

14 Honeycomb stitch Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics. Visible seams and hems.

15 Jersey stitch Natural, blended or synthetic fabrics and delicate knits. Visible seams and hems. Mending jersey/interlock.

16 Stretch overlock Medium weight knits, towelling and firm wovens. Overlock seams, flat joining seams.

12 Darning program Automatic darning for fine and medium weight fabrics.

9 Standard buttonhole Fine to medium weight woven fabrics. Blouses, shirts, trousers, bedlinens, etc.

10 Keyhole buttonhole Heavy weight, non stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, trousers, leisure wear, etc.

11 Straight stitch eyelet Opening for cords and narrow ribbons.

Stitches

Stitch selection virtuosa 163

1 Straight stitch All non-stretch fabrics. All straight stitch work.

2 Zig-zag Most fabric types. All simple zig-zag such as oversewing fine fabrics. Sewing on elastic and lace.

3 Vari-overlock Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch overlock seams and hems.

4 Running stitch Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams.

5 Securing stitch All types of fabric. Secures the beginning and end of seams sewn with straight stitch.

6 Triple straight and triple zig-zag Reinforced seams in tough, heavy fabrics.

7 Blind stitch Most types of fabric. Blind hems, shell edging on soft jerseys and fine fabrics, decorative seams.

8 Double overlock All types of knit. Overlock = sew and neaten in one operation.

15 Super stretch Open seam for all super-stretch fabrics.

16 Honeycomb stitch Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics. Visible seams and hems.

17 Jersey stitch Natural, blended or synthetic fabrics and delicate knits. Visible seams and hems. Mending jersey/interlock.

18 Stretch overlock Medium weight knits, towelling and firm wovens. Overlock seams, flat joining seams.

19 Universal stitch Firm fabrics such as felt and leather. Flat joining seams, visible seams, sewing on elastic, decorative seams.

20 Gathering stitch Most types of fabric. Gathering with shirring elastic. Butted seams = butting two pressed edges and sewing together.

14 Darning program Automatic darning for fine and medium weight fabrics.

9 Standard buttonhole Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, trousers, bedlinens, etc.

10 Standard buttonhole narrow Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, dresses, trousers, children's and baby clothes.

11 Stretch buttonhole All stretch fabrics made from cotton, wool silk and synthetic fibres.

12 Keyhole buttonhole Heavy weight, non stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, trousers, leisure wear, etc.

13 Straight stitch eyelet Opening for cords and narrow ribbons.

Presser feet

Presser foot selection

1 Reverse pattern foot Practical and decorative stitches

2 Overlock foot Overlock seams, hems, oversewing edges, narrow satin stitch

3 Buttonhole foot Buttonholes

4 Zipper foot Sewing in zips

5 Blind stitch foot Blind hems, edge stitching

8 Jeans foot Straight stitching in thick, firm fabrics and over seams (for virtuosa 153 QE available as a special accessory )

9 Darning foot Freehand quilting in light to medium weight fabrics, darning

37 Patchwork foot 1/4"/6 mm Patchwork with 1/4" seam allowance (available as a special accessory for virtuosa 163)

3A Buttonhole foot with slide Buttonholes on smooth fabrics, darning

BERNINA special presser feet

The standard selection of presser feet covers most normal sewing requirements but we recommend the use of BERNINA purpose designed feet for special sewing tasks such as pintucking and shell seam.

Ask your BERNINA dealer for details of the complete range.

0 Zig-zag foot

6 Embroidery foot

10 Edge Stitch foot

20 Open Embroidery foot

21 Cording foot

23 Appliqué foot

24 Freehand Embroidery foot (quilting)

29 Freehand Embroidery foot (quilting)

31 Pintuck foot 5 groove

32 Pintuck foot 7 groove

68 Roll and shell hemmer 2 mm

69 Roll and shell hemmer 4 mm

Important facts about sewing computer needles

sewing computer, needle and thread

Your BERNINA uses needle system 130/705H.

Needle and thread

The most commonly sold needles are nos. 70–120.
The finer the needle, the lower the number. The table shows which needle is suitable for which threads.
The needle you use depends on the thread. The needle must be suitable for the thread.

When sewing, the thread runs in the long groove on the needle.

If the needle is too fine, the groove will be too narrow for the thread and faulty stitching or thread breakage can occur.

Needle and fabric

Condition of needle

The needle must be in perfect condition.
Problems can occur with damaged needles.

bent needle

blunt needle

hooked needle

Needle, thread 27

Needles

Important facts about sewing computer needles

Special materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used. Special needles are available at your BERNINA dealer.

Needle, thread, fabric feed

Feed-dog and fabric feed

Feed-dog and stitch length

With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step. The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected. With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are also short. The fabric moves under the foot quite slowly, even at full sewing speed. Buttonholes, satin stitch and decorative stitches are all sewn with a very short stitch length.

I mportant

Let the fabric feed evenly! Pulling or pushing will result in gaps. Holding back will result in knots.

Feed-dog and fabric feed

The feed-dog can work normally when the foot is level. If the foot is at an angle, e.g. when sewing over thick to thin or vice-versa, the feed-dog cannot grip and feed the fabric and the fabric hangs up. To solve this problem, place one, two or three compensating plates as required behind the needle under the presser foot. To correct the height in front of the foot, place one or more plates to the right of the foot close to the needle. Sew until the foot is level again and remove the plates.

Feed-dog and sewing corners

The gap between the two rows of teeth is relatively large due to the width of the stitch plate hole. When sewing corners only a small section of the fabric is actually on the feed-dog so that it cannot grip the fabric well. Correct this by placing one or more compensating plates as close as possible to the edge of the fabric.

Cleaning and Maintenance

Cleaning

If the machine is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a warm room about one hour before use.

Cleaning

Clean the machine after every use · turn power switch to 0 · remove presser foot and needle · open the free-arm cover · press the stitch plate down at back right corner · lift and remove it · clean the area with the brush · replace the stitch plate

Cleaning the screen and the machine

· wipe with a damp cloth

Cleaning the hook

· turn power switch to 0 · remove the bobbin case · push the release lever to the left · push the locking lever to the left and fold down the hook race cover · remove the hook · clean the hook race with a cloth or brush, never use a sharp instrument · replace the hook, turning the handwheel if necessary so that the hook driver is on the left · close the hook race cover and secure with the locking lever, the locking pin must engage · check by turning the handwheel · insert the bobbin case

Important: Never use alcohol, petrol, white spirit or any type of solvent to clean the machine!

Lubricating

This machine is equipped with a LM (low mass) hook system which requires no lubrication. If however you do lubricate any parts, always run the machine immediately afterwards on scrap material to avoid soiling your work.

Sewing light

Replacing the bulb

· turn power switch to 0 · loosen the screw

Warning: Light bulbs get hot. Allow to cool down before romoval!

!

· remove the cover · remove the bulb · insert the new bulb · replace cover and tighten screw

Note: Use bulb type 12 V 5 W. W 2.1 x 9.5 d.

!

Note: For models with new sewing light see page 31.

Refer to the safety instructions!

Faults

Trouble shooting

In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy faults by checking the following.

Check whether: · the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly · the needle is inserted correctly with the flat side to the back · the needle size is correct – check the needle/thread table · the machine is clean – brush out any thread fluff · the hook race is clean · any threads are trapped between the tension discs or under the bobbin case spring

Upper thread breaks

· The upper thread tension is too tight. · The needles are of a poor quality. Ideally needles should be purchased from your BERNINA dealer. · The needle has been inserted incorrectly. The flat side of the shank must be to the back. · The needle is bent or blunt. · Poor quality, knotted or dried out thread has been used. · Use the correct spool disc. · Stitch plate or hook tip damaged. Take your machine to your BERNINA dealer.

Lower thread breaks

· The lower thread tension is too tight. · The bobbin is jamming in the bobbin case. Remove and replace the bobbin. · The hole in the stitch plate has been damaged by the needle. This must be repolished by an expert. · The needle is blunt or bent.

Skipped stitches

· Wrong needles used. Use only 130/705H system. · The needle is blunt, bent or incorrectly inserted. Push right to the top when inserting. · Needle inserted all the way to the top. · The needle point does not suit the fabric being sewn. If necessary use a ball point for knitted fabrics and cutting point for hard leather.

Needle breaks

· Needle clamp screw loose. · Fabric taken out in front of instead of behind the presser foot. · When sewing over thick area, the fabric was pushed with the needle still in the fabric. · Poor quality thread, unevenly wound or knotted.

Faulty stitching

· Remnants of thread between the tension discs. · Remnants of thread under the bobbin case spring. · Lower thread still threaded in the bobbin case finger. · Machine threaded with foot down. · Incorrect threading. Check upper and lower threads. · Use the correct spool disc.

Machine fails to run or runs slowly

· Plug not properly inserted. · Power switch in off position. · Machine has been standing in a cold room. · Bobbin winder still switched on.

Machine sews in reverse

Reverse sewing function is still activated.

Defective sewing light

Please note that it is forbidden to change the new CFL sewing-light by a unauthorized person. For models with this new CFL sewing-light, the light can ONLY be replaced by an authorized BERNINA dealer.

31

32 Index

Index

A Accessory box 6 Alphabet 13 Altered stitch memory 13

B Balance 17 Bobbin case · inserting 8 Bobbin thread 31 · breaks 31 · bringing up 10 · inserting 8 · winding 8 Bulb · changing 30 Buttonholes · auto keyhole 16 · auto standard 15 · auto stretch 15 · manual 4-step keyhole 14 · manual 6-step standard 14 · stitch counter 17 · balance 16,17

C Cable 7 Cable connection 7 Carrying case 6 Cleaning 30 Clr/del-button 13 Contents 3 Continuous reverse 13 Corners 29 CPS – Customized Pattern Selection 23

D Decorative stitches 23 Details of the machine 4, 5 Double overlock 18, 19

F Faults 31 Feed Dogs 11 · and fabric feed 29 · and presser foot 29 · and sewing corners 29 · and stitch length 29 · lowering 11 Foot control 7 Free-Hand System 7 Functions 13

G General operating instructions 12

H Hook · cleaning 30

I Index 32 Inserting a bobbin 8

K Keyhole buttonhole 14, 16, 17

L Lettering/number, programming 20/21

M Maintenance 30 Memory programming 19–21 Motor speed 13

N Needle · threading 10 · and thread 27 · information 28 · changing 9 Needle position 12 Needle stop up/down 12 Needle threader 10 Numbers/lettering, programming 20/21

O Operating instruction 12

P Pattern end 13 Personal memory 13 Power cable 7 Power switch 7 Practical stitches 24, 25 Presser feet · changing 9 · selection 26 Presser foot display 12 Presser foot lifter 7 Presser foot pressure 22 Programming memory 20, 21

Q Quick reverse 13

R Reverse sewing · continuous 13

S Safety instructions 1 Securing-button 13 Securing function 13 Securing stitch 23, 24 Sewing corners 29 Sewing light 30 Sewing table 7 Skipped stitches 27 Speed (1/2) 13 Standard buttonhole 14, 15, 17 Stitch counter buttonhole selector 13 Stitch length 12 Stitch width 12 Stitch plate markings 11 Stitch selection 24, 25 Stretch buttonhole 14, 15, 17 Supplementary spool pin 9

T Tension 11 Thread cutter 11 Thread tension 11 Thread · and needle chart 27 · and needles 27 · bringing up the lower thread 10 · tension 11 · upper thread threading 10 Threader 10 Trouble shooting 31

U Upper thread · breaks 25 · threading 10

Sewing Manual

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Contents

Straight stitch/zig-zag 2–5 1 Decorative stitches 6, 7 Memory 8, 9 Seams, hems with practical stitches 10–14 Sewing knits 15, 16 Zippers 17 Blind hem 18 Elastic 19, 20 Buttonholes/eyelets 21–27 Quilt stitch 28, 29 Darning/mending tears 30–34 Index 35