Bernina 153QE owner's manual: 2 Straight stitch

Straight stitch

2 Straight stitch

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Straight stitch (A) The machine is ready to sew as soon as you switch on · select straight stitch · presser foot display · basic settings (length and width) for straight stitch · basic settings blink constantly

A B C A straight stitch with length of 2.25 mm preset length B straight stitch with altered stitch length C straight stitch with altered needle positions

5 4 3 2 1 0

Altering the stitch length (B) You can alter the length while you sew: Ⓥ shorten ⓐ lengthen

..• • • • • • • •

Change the needle position (C) Ⓛ to the left Ⓡ to the right

U

Securing with quick reverse button (frame) · press the button and the machine sews in reverse · release the button and the machine sews forward

TIPS

Adjust the stitch length to suit the fabric: · e.g. use a longer stitch length (approximately 3 mm–4 mm) with denim, shorter length (2 mm–2.5 mm) with batiste

Adjust the stitch length to suit the thread: · e.g. use a longer stitch length (approximately 3 mm–5 mm) when sewing with cordonnet thread for top stitching

Activate needle stop down · prevents the fabric slipping when you stop to adjust it

Securing stitch

Securing stitch (straight stitch)

3

Stitch: Securing stitch No. 5 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Securing stitch for all fabrics secures beginning and end of seam

Stitch selection · touch stitch No. 5

On-screen · presser foot · basic settings (width and length)

Sewing

Seam begin · machine secures seam automatically (5 stitches forward, 5 stitches reverse) · continue with straight stitch forward

Seam end · press the quick reverse button machine secures automatically (5 stitches forward, 5 stitches reverse) · machine stops automatically when securing is complete

TIP Sewing long seams · quick and easy securing at beginning and end of seam

Edges

4 Edge stitching

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester or cordonnet (topstitching) Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Blind stitch foot No. 5 Edge stitch foot No. 10 (optional)

Narrow edge stitching

Needle position · left for outer edge · right for inner edge Presser foot · Blind stitch foot No. 5

Example Outer edge · place edge of fold against the guide on the foot · select needle position at desired distance from the edge

Hem edges · place edge of fold against the guide on the foot · select needle position right

Wide edge stitching

Needle position · all Presser foot · Reverse pattern foot No. 1

At a foot's width (A) · guide the fold along the edge of the presser foot sole

At 1–3 cm (B) · guide the folded edge along the markings on the stitch plate

Seam guide (C) · insert the seam guide into the hole on the presser foot shaft · adjust as desired · guide the folded edge along the seam guide

· to sew parallel lines, guide the fabric along a previously sewn line of stitches

A B C

TIP Edge stitching with seam guide · a big help when sewing parallel lines

Zig-zag

Zig-zag stitch

Stitch: Zig-zag No. 2 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

A B C A zigzag stitch with altered stitch width B zigzag stitch with altered stitch length C fabric edges finished with zigzag stitch

Zig-zag stitch for all fabrics for neatening edges for decorative work

Stitch selection · press the appropriate button (zig-zag)

On-screen · presser foot · basic settings (length and width)

0 1 2 3 4 5 5.5

Altering the stitch width (A) the width can be altered while you sew ➣ wider ⊳ narrower

5 4 3 2 1 0

Altering the stitch length (B) the length can be altered while you sew Ⓥ shorter Ⓐ longer

Satin stitch dense (shorter) zig-zag stitch = filled in zig-zag

Oversewing edges (C) · guide edge of fabric under the center of the presser foot · needle goes into fabric on one stroke and over the edge of the fabric on the next stroke · do not select too wide a width or too long a stitch – the edge should lie flat and not roll · use darning thread for fine fabrics

TIP Oversewing edges with zig-zag · if edges roll, use Vari-overlock stitch No. 3 and foot No. 2

Embroidery with satin stitch · adjust the stitch width as you sew for new effects

Decorative stitches

6 Decorative stitches

Stitch: Decorative stitch Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Embroidery foot No. 6 (depending on stitch)

Decorative stitches for all fabrics, for embellishing

Stitch selection · press appropriate button

Altering the basic settings

0 1 2 3 4 5 5.5 Stitch width ⊃ wider ⊂ narrower

5 4 3 2 1 0 Stitch length shorter ⓐ longer

A C B

A decorative stitch with preset width and length B decorative stitch with reduced width C decorative stitch with shortened length

TIP

Altering the basic settings · stitches can be adjusted to suit your own tastes, e.g. for dolls clothes, reduce the width · the size of motifs can be adjusted to suit small items

Decorative stitches on single layer of fabric: · always use stabilizer underneath · remove after sewing is complete

Decorative stitches

Combining decorative stitches with functions

7

Stitch: Decorative stitches Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1, open Embroidery Foot No. 20 or Embroidery Foot No. 6 (optional)

· every stitch can be combined with functions · more than one function can be used with individual stitches · press the clr/del button to delete the functions

B A C

Method · select stitch A · sew

· select function (e.g. mirror image) B · sew

· select 2nd function (e.g. securing) C · sew

Deleting functions · special functions – press the appropriate button to disengage or press the clr/del button.

Note: use of the clr/del button will remove most functions and all stitch alterations

TIP Activate needle stop down when sewing long seams · prevents fabric slipping when stopping to adjust it

Activate pattern end function: · machine stops after each stitch pattern

Decorative stitches on single layer of fabric: · always use stabilizer underneath · remove after sewing is complete

Memory

8 Practical and decorative stitches in Memory

· The memory can store up to 30 stitches · Every practical and decorative stitch can be saved in memory · Any combinations of practical and decorative stitches as well as letters and numbers can be saved in the memory · The memory contents remain saved even when the machine is disconnected from the electricity supply · Memory contents can be recalled at any time Exceptions: buttonholes, securing stitch No. 5, eyelet

Programming practical and decorative stitches see instruction manual

Example A: · program a stitch combination of your choice in the memory (No. 29 and No. 36 virtuosa 163 / No. 28 and No. 24 virtuosa 153 QE) · sew repeatedly

A B

Example B: · program a stitch (No. 27 virtuosa 163 / No. 20 virtuosa 153) · activate mirror image · save mirror image and sew both repeatedly

Example c: · program a stitch combination of your choice in the memory · activate pattern end · machine stops automatically at the end of the combination

Example D: · program a partially mirror imaged stitch in the memory · activate pattern end · machine stops automatically at the end of the combination

C D

TIP Decorative stitch combinations with embroidery thread · gives stitches a fuller appearance

Stitch combinations on double fabric · bottom layer does not pucker

Stitch combinations on single fabric · always use stabilizer as a backing · remove after sewing

Memory 9

Letters and numbers in memory

(Block letters on the virtuosa 153 QE)

· The memory has a capacity for 30 stitches. · All letters can be programmed in memory. · All letters and numbers as well as practical and decorative stitches can be combined at will and programmed in memory. · The memory contents remain saved even when the machine is disconnected from the electricity supply. · The memory contents can be recalled at any time.

Programming letter and numbers see instruction manual

Examples

A Program name in block capitals (A) · activate pattern end · sew the name · machine stops when the name is complete

A Program name in double capitals (B) · activate pattern end · sew · machine stops when the name is complete

Program initials and year in italics (C) · activate pattern end · sew · machine stops when the sewing is finished · trim connecting threads

A B C

TIP Activate pattern end after programming · the programmed words will be repeated if the function is not activated

Sewing letters on double fabric · bottom layer does not pucker

Sewing letters on single fabric · always use stabilizer as a backing · remove after sewing

Practical stitch seams

10 Practical stitch seams

Open seams Seams which are pressed open · seam allowance width as wide as wanted · seam lies flat · seam does not stretch open

Suggested stitches: · straight, narrow zig-zag and super stretch Application: primarily for woven fabrics · clothing

Closed seam (overlock seams) Seams which cannot be pressed open · sewn and neatened in one operation · narrow seam allowances

Suggested stitches: · vari-overlock, double overlock Application: primarily for knits and jerseys · excellent for knit clothing, lingerie and bed linens

Flat joining seams Seams where the edges are overlapped and then over-sewn · sewing is on the seam allowances

Suggested stitch: · stretch-overlock Application: particularly good for towelling and lycra

Zig-zag seam

Stitch: Zig-zag No. 2 Stitch width: approx. 1 mm Stitch length: approx. 0,5 mm Needle: universal, ballpoint or stretch as needed Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Open seam applications · stitch has more «give» than a straight stitch · use for knits and outer wear · seam lies flat and is not bulky · allows a garment to be let out

TIP

Seam in jersey or knits waves · to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn, reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric

Practical stitch seams

Triple straight stitch seam

11

Stitch: Triple straight stitch No. 6 Needle: 80–90 universal or jeans Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Open seam · strong seam for firm and densely woven fabric such as denim and corduroy · reinforced seam for garment areas subject to hard wear

TIP Use a Jeans needle and the jeans foot No. 8 for densely woven fabrics

Super stretch seam

Stitch: Super stretch No. 13 virtuosa 153 / No. 15 virtuosa 163 Needle: universal, ballpoint or stretch as needed Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Open seam · flexible seam for very stretchy fabrics, particularly for sports and leisure wear · seam lies flat and is not bulky

TIP Knits and jersey · use a new ball point needle to prevent damaging the loops

Sewing stretch fabrics · if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705H-S) = needle point slides between the fibers

Seam in knits or jersey waves · reduce presser foot pressure to suit the fabric

Practical stitch seams

12 Vari-overlock seam

Stitch: Vari-overlock No. 3 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Overlock foot No. 2 or Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Closed seam stretchy seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and interlock

Sewing · guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot · the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric

TIP Knits and jersey · use a new needle to prevent damaging the loops

Sewing stretch fabrics · if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705H-S) = needle point slides between the fibers

Double overlock seam

Stitch: Double overlock No. 8 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Overlock foot No. 2 or Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Closed seam overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits and jerseys

Sewing · guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot · the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric

TIP Knits and jersey · use a new needle to prevent damaging the loops

Sewing stretch fabrics · if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705H-S) = needle point slides between the fibers

Practical stitch seams

Stretch overlock seam

13

Stitch: Stretch overlock No. 16 virtuosa 153/No. 18 virtuosa 163 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Closed seam overlock seam in coarse or loose knits

Sewing · sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge · the stitch on the right swing should go over the edge of the fabric

TIP Seam in loose knits waves · reduce presser foot pressure to suit the fabric

Flat joining seam

Stitch: Stretch overlock No. 16 virtuosa 153/No. 18 virtuosa 163 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Flat joining seam · lay the fabric edges on top of each other and sew along the seam allowance = very flat, durable seams · ideal for fluffy or thick materials such as towelling, felt and leather

Sewing · sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge · the stitch should go just over the edge of the top fabric into the lower layer

TIP Fabric and thread · if you use a matching color thread, it is hardly visible in fluffy fabrics

Thick seam · particularly suitable for fabrics in which a normal straight stitch seam would stretch open

Practical stitch hems

14 Hems with practical stitches

Preparation · press hem and baste if desired

Sewing · sew hem at desired depth (right side) · trim surplus fabric (wrong side)

Visible hem with Jersey stitch

Stitch: Jersey stitch No. 15 virtuosa 153 QE/No.17 virtuosa 163 universal, ballpoint or stretch as needed Needle: Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Visible stretch hem for all types of cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey

TIP

Knits and jersey · use a new ball point needle to prevent damaging the loops

Sewing stretch fabrics · if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705H-S) = needle point slides between the fibers

Visible hem with Triple zig-zag stitch

Stitch: Triple zig-zag No. 6 Stitch width: 2,5–5 mm depending on fabric Stitch length: basic setting Needle: universal or jeans Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Strong visible seam for firm, densely woven fabrics, particularly good for denim and canvas

TIP

Hems on items which are to be washed frequently · first neaten raw edges and do not trim after sewing

Sewing firm, densely woven fabrics · use a Jeans needle

Sewing knits 15

Sewing knits

Important information

Perfect needle · blunt needles can damage knits

Use a stretch needle (130/705 H-S) if necessary · the needle point slides between the fibers

Fine sewing thread · heavy threads can damage knits and cause holes when the garment is washed

Darning thread for basting · it's easier to remove when oversewn

Sewing test, when necessary · the elasticity of modern fabrics varies greatly · adjust basic settings to suit the fabric; the seam should be as stretchy as the fabric · for greater elasticity: use a shorter stitch length and a wider stitch width (only one of these adjustments may be necessary)

Presser foot pressure · soft, loose knits can wave when sewn: reduce the pressure until the seam lies flat; the machine must still feed the fabric properly

Self-facing with Honeycomb stitch

Stitch: Honeycomb No. 14 virtuosa 153/No. 16 virtuosa 163 Needle: universal, ballpoint or stretch as needed Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Ribbing with visible seam for all cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey

Preparation · press 1 cm (3/8") to wrong side

Sewing · sew from the right at a foot's width from the edge · trim surplus fabric (wrong side)

Balance/corrections · Honeycomb stitch is not closed bring stitch together = adjust balance – (subtract space between stitches)

open out stitch = adjust balance + (add space to stitches)

TIP

Needle stop down · needle stays in fabric when you stop to adjust the ribbing

Presser foot pressure · reduce pressure if hem stretches

Sewing knits

16 Ribbing with overlock seam

Stitch: Vari-overlock No. 3 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Overlock foot No. 2 or Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Ribbing with overlock seam for all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey

Preparation · fold ribbing in half · pin and baste to opening, right side outside

Sewing · sew Vari-overlock over the raw edge · guide the edge along the pin on the foot

Back view

Front view

TIP Needle stop down · needle stays in fabric when you stop to adjust the ribbing

Zippers

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or polyester
Feed-dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Zipper foot No. 4
Needle position: far right or far left

Preparation:

• baste in zipper
• fabric edges should meet over the center of the zipper

Sewing

• sew in the zipper, each side from bottom to top
• once with needle position far right and once with needle position far left
• the edge of the foot runs along the teeth of the zip
• the needle inserts close to the teeth

TIP

To sew around zipper pull

• close zipper and sew up to about 5 cm (2") away from the pull
• insert needle, raise the presser foot, open the zipper, lower the foot and continue to sew

Seam begin

• hold thread firmly when starting to sew = pull fabric slightly to the back (fewer stitches)

Zipper or fabric is thick or densely woven

• use a 90–100 needle for even stitch formation

Blind hem

18 Blind hem

Stitch: Blind hem No. 7 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Blind stitch foot No. 5

Blind hem for invisible hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool and blended fabrics

Preparation · neaten raw edges · prepare seam as for sewing by hand · place work under the presser foot (see drawing)

Sewing · the needle should just pierce the edge of the fold (same as hand sewing) · adjust the stitch width to suit the fabric · after sewing about 10 cm (4"), check both sides of fabric and adjust width again if necessary

wrong side of fabric

wrong side of fabric

right side of fabric

TIP

Fine stitch width adjustment · guide the folded edge evenly along the metal guide on the foot = even depth

Elastic/cord

Sewing on narrow elastic with Universal stitch

19

Stitch: Universal stitch No. 19 (163 only) Stitch width: depending on width of elastic Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Embroidery foot No. 6 (optional)

Sewing on elastic · for gathering long lengths of fabric, frills and flounces in fine fabrics · works well for gathered sleeve edges and neck openings

Preparation · cut elastic to length required

Sewing · oversew the elastic, adjusting the stitch width to be slightly wider than the elastic · needle must not pierce the elastic · after sewing, adjust the gathers evenly

TIP Secure the beginning and end of elastic · sew a few straight stitches backward and forward to secure the elastic

Quick hem finish · for children's or doll's clothing · sew hem with elastic before sewing side seams

Sewing on shirring elastic/cord with Gathering stitch

Stitch: Gathering stitch No. 20 virtuosa 163 / No. 27 virtuosa 153 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Buttonhole foot No. 3

Shirring elastic/cord for gathering long lengths of fabric

Preparation · cut elastic/cord double the length of the fabric · fold in half · hook over the center prong on the buttonhole foot · take both ends under the foot to the back

Sewing · sew a few stitches · lift elastic/cord at the front and pull towards you · leave ends behind the presser foot · oversew cord · after sewing pull the cord to gather the fabric · stretch elastic while sewing, the tighter it is stretched, the tighter the gathers

TIP Securing beginning and end · sew a few stitches with the feed-dog lowered

Elastic/cord

20 Sewing on wide elastic with Running stitch

Stitch: Running stitch No. 4 Stitch length: adjust to suit elastic Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Wide elastic for finishing openings on sports wear and lingerie

Preparation · cut elastic to length required · divide opening and elastic into 4 equal sections and mark · pin elastic to opening, matching up markings

Sewing · as you sew, stretch the elastic to fit the opening · trim surplus fabric

TIP Gather the fabric edge first · first sew two rows of straight stitching (stitch length 5 mm) 5–10 cm long · knot threads at seam begin · pull bobbin threads, gather fabric · elastic band can be sewn over gathered fabric without stretching elastic · an evenly gathered edge is completed

Elastic is stretched · reduce the presser foot pressure to suit fabric and elastic

Buttonholes

Everything you need to know about buttonholes

21

Thread tension · thread the bobbin thread through the finger of the bobbin case · the bobbin tension is a little tighter · this gives the beads on the right side of the fabric a slightly rounded appearance · the buttonhole looks more attractive · gimp reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance (pages 26, 27)

Mark the length of manual buttonholes · mark the buttonhole length in the appropriate position · stitched using Buttonhole foot No. 3

Mark the length of automatic buttonholes · mark the length of just one buttonhole · after sewing the first buttonhole, the length for all subsequent buttonholes is automatically programmed · mark only the beginning of all subsequent buttonholes

Mark the length of keyhole buttonholes · mark the bead length only · the correct length eye will be added when the buttonhole is sewn

Test sewing · always test sew on the fabric and stabilizer you intend to use · select the buttonhole type you intend to use · sew the buttonhole in the same direction on the fabric (with or against the grain) · cut the buttonhole open · push the button through and adjust the buttonhole length if necessary

Corrections To adjust the bead width: · alter the stitch width

Altering the stitch length: · any alterations to the stitch length affect both beads (denser or less dense) · always reprogram the buttonhole after any changes to the stitch length

Balance for stitch counter buttonholes (pictures A + B) · any alterations to the balance affect both beads · if you alter the bead density with balance, delete the programmed buttonhole with the clr/del button and reprogramme the buttonhole with the new balance setting

Balance for automatic/manual buttonholes · any balance alterations to the 6-step manual and auto length buttonholes affects both beads identically because they are sewn in the same direction

Note: When all buttonholes have been sewn, return balance to the normal setting

TIP

If a buttonhole is to be sewn at right angles to a seam, we recommend the use of the buttonhole leveler. Insert the plate from behind between the fabric and the foot up to and over the thicker area.

A

1. Denser bead
2. Finer bead

B

1. Finer bead
2. Denser bead

Buttonholes

22 Manual buttonhole (all types)

The number of steps depends on the type of buttonhole selected. A manual buttonhole cannot be saved.

Stitch: any buttonhole Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Buttonhole foot No. 3

Preparation · select the desired buttonhole · screen shows: buttonhole number presser foot No. 3 the buttonhole symbol (the first step blink on the screen) · insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case

Always test sew buttonholes · test on the fabric and stabilizer you intend to use · sew buttonholes in the same grain direction (with or against)

The individual steps blink on the screen

Sewing a standard buttonhole

1. sew the first bead forward, stop the machine · press the quick reverse button
2. sew reverse straight stitch, stop the machine at the first stitch (buttonhole begin) · press the quick reverse button
3. sew the bartack and the second bead, stop the machine · press the quick reverse button
4. sew the bartack and the securing stitches

Automatic buttonholes (without stitch counter buttonhole)

Both beads are sewn in the same direction.

Stretch buttonholes (virtuosa 163) are particularly effective on all knit fabrics because the double overlock stitch used for the beads stretch with the fabric while keeping its shape.

Note: The automatic buttonhole foot 3A must lie perfectly flat on the fabric. If the foot lies on a seam, the length cannot be measured accurately.

Stitch: Buttonhole (all types) Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

Automatic buttonhole

· the lens on automatic buttonhole foot 3A automatically registers the length of the buttonhole for exact duplication

Sew the first bead

· sew the first bead forward, stopping at the desired length

Program the buttonhole

· press and release the quick reverse button · auto appears on the screen to indicate that the buttonhole length is programmed · continue sewing; the machine completes the buttonhole and stops automatically

Auto buttonhole

· machine stops in position to begin the next buttonhole · reposition the fabric and sew; all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn automatically to the same length (without pressing the quick reverse button)

TIPS

Exact duplicates

· the auto function ensures that each buttonhole will be exactly the same length as the previous one

Marking

· mark only the beginning of the buttonholes – a real time saver!

Sewing speed

· sew at moderate speed for best results · sew all buttonholes at the same speed for a consistent bead density

Buttonholes

24 Automatic keyhole buttonhole (without stitch counter buttonhole)

Both beads are sewn in the same direction. The length of the beads is determined and the keyhole sections are sewn additional.

Stitch: Keyhole buttonhole No.10 virtuosa 153/No.12 virtuosa 163 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

Automatic buttonhole · the lens on automatic buttonhole foot 3A automatically registers the length of the buttonhole for exact duplication

Sew the first bead · the stitching sequence is displayed on the screen (to the right of the presser foot symbol) · sew the first bead forward, stopping at the desired length

Program the buttonhole · press and release the quick reverse button · auto appears on the screen to indicate that the buttonhole length is programmed · continue sewing; the machine completes the buttonhole and stops automatically

Auto buttonhole · machine stops in position to begin the next buttonhole · reposition the fabric and sew; all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn automatically to the same length (without pressing the quick reverse button)

TIPS

Exact duplicates · the auto function ensures that each buttonhole will be exactly the same length as the previous one

Marking · mark only the beginning of the buttonholes – a real time saver!

Double sewn keyhole buttonholes · keyhole buttonholes can be sewn twice on thick fabrics · after sewing the first buttonhole, do not move the work · simply tap the foot control once to begin sewing again

Stitch counter buttonholes for all buttonhole types

(can not be saved in long term memory)

The first (left) bead is sewn forwards, the second (right) bead is sewn in reverse.

Stitch: Buttonholes (all types) Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Buttonhole foot No. 3

Stitch counter buttonholes

· select the desired buttonhole · press the continuous reverse button (stitch counter buttonhole selector)

Length of first bead

· sew the first bead, stopping at the desired length · press and release the quick reverse button

Bartack, second bead

· bottom bartack and second bead are sewn in reverse · stop machine at the first stitch · press and release the quick reverse button

Bartack, securing stitches

· machine sews the top bartack and securing stitches · machine stops automatically · auto appears on the screen · the buttonhole is programmed and saved · each subsequent buttonhole will be sewn identically

Corrections

· reprogram the buttonhole if any alterations to the stitch width, length, or balance have been made

Programmed buttonhole on a different fabric

· different fabrics and interfacings can affect the look of a stitch counter buttonhole · if you are using a new material, program the uttonhole again · test sewing on the new fabric is recommended

TIPS

More buttonholes with presser foot No. 3

· ideal for buttonholes which are difficult to sew with the larger foot of Automatic buttonhole foot 3A

Beautiful buttonholes

· keep the speed consistent for beads of equal density · sew at a moderate speed for best results

Marking

· mark only the beginning of the buttonholes – a real time saver!

Buttonholes

26 Standard and stretch* buttonholes with gimp (*virtuosa 163 only)

Gimp

· gimp cord reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance · the loop of the cord should be at the end of the buttonhole most subject to wear cord loop = where button is sewn on · position the work accordingly · gimp cord is particularly recommended for standard and stretch buttonholes

Ideal cords

· Perle yarn No. 8 · strong hand sewing thread · fine crochet yarn

Hooking the cord onto presser foot No. 3

· insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole · raise the presser foot · hook the cord over the centre pin on the front of the foot

· place both ends of the cord in the grooves on the sole of the foot and pull them to the back · lower the presser foot

Sewing

· sew the buttonhole in the usual manner · do not hold the cord tightly · the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it

Hooking the cord in the buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A

· insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole · raise the presser foot · guide the cord under the foot to the right · hook the cord over the pin at the back of the foot

· bring the cords to the front of the foot · pull them into the slit · sew the buttonhole

Sewing

· sew the buttonhole in the usual manner · do not hold the cord tightly · the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it

Buttonholes, Eyelet

27

Securing the cord · pull the cord through the buttonhole · pull cords through to back of fabric · knot or secure with stitches

Cutting buttonholes open · using the seam ripper, cut from the ends towards the middle

Buttonhole cutter and block (special accessory) · place the fabric on the wood · place the cutter in the centre of the buttonhole · press down on the cutter with your hand or a hammer

Eyelet

Stitch: Eyelet No. 13 virtuosa 163/No.11 virtuosa 153 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Sewn eyelet · opening for cord and narrow ribbon · for decorative work, children's clothing, crafts

Sewing eyelets · select eyelet · sew program · machine stops automatically · machine is ready to sew the next eyelet

Cutting eyelets open · use an eyelet punch

TIP Eyelets · ideal as eyes for soft toys, dolls or puppets

More marked appearance · thread bobbin thread in finger on bobbin case = tighter bobbin tension

Hand-look quilt stitch

Quilt/hand stitch

for all fabrics and all types of work which should have a hand-sewn look

Sewing test

• the bobbin thread must come through to the right side
• 1 stitch is visible, 1 stitch is invisible
• (monofilament) = hand stitched effect

Upper thread tension

depending on the fabric = increase the tension (6–9)

Balance

adjust if necessary

Sewing

• Quilt stitch can be sewn with any needle position

TIP

Perfect corners

• activate pattern end then turn work

Monofilament breaks

• sew more slowly
• reduce upper thread tension slightly

Patchwork foot

Patchwork foot

Accuracy is essential when sewing patches together. The Patchwork foot is exactly 1/4" wide, the centre indents on either side of the foot indicate the needle insertion point and the two additional indents are 1/4" in front of and behind the needle. If you sew at a foot’s width, the seam allowances will always be exactly 1/4" wide and it is easy to turn the work while maintaining the same width. A stitch length of 1,5–2 mm is ideal. It is not necessary to secure the stitches for these relatively short seam lengths. Attach the sewing table for precise and easier work.

Freehand quilting

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: cotton or monofilament
Feed-dog: down (darning position)
Presser foot: Darning foot No. 9 or Quilting foot No. 29

Freehand quilting

• for all freehand quilt work

Preparation

• pin and baste top layer, batting, and lining together
• attach the slide-on sewing table or place machine in a cabinet

Holding the work

• start in the center and work out toward the edges
• hold the fabric with both hands like an embroidery frame

Quilting a design

• turn the work using smooth, round movements to form the design of your choice (either freehand or following a template)

Stipple quilting

• this technique covers the entire surface of the fabric
• the lines of stitching are rounded without any sharp corners; they never cross or touch one another

TIPS

Freehand quilting and darning

• both techniques are based on the same free-motion principles

Thread breaks

• usually as a result of sudden or jerky movements – move the fabric smoothly and at an even pace

Poor stitch formation

• if the thread forms loops, the work is being moved too quickly
• if knots are forming on the underside, the work is being moved too slowly

Monofilament hints

• if the monofilament thread breaks, sew more slowly and/or reduce the upper thread tension slightly

Darning/mending tears

30 Edging knits with shirring elastic

Stitch: Zig-zag No. 2 Stitch width: approx. 5 mm Stitch length: 1–1,5 mm Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Edges in knits with shirring elastic prevents openings from stretching and helps retain their shape

Sewing · guide double length of shirring elastic along the edge of the fabric · stretch the elastic lightly · oversew with zig-zag · do not sew through the elastic, only over it · adjust elastic after sewing is complete to regain the correct shape and size

TIP Stretch fabrics stretch while sewing · reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric

Patches 31

Patches on woven fabrics

Stitch: Running stitch No. 4 Honeycomb No. 14 virtuosa 153 (No. 16 virtuosa 163) Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Reinforcing edges · good for work clothes, table linen, towels, etc. · use a cord to match the color of the fabric

Suitable cords · perle yarn · fine crochet yarn · strong hand-sewing thread · gimp

Sewing · oversew edges with Honeycomb or Running stitch · oversew a cord along the edge for added reinforcement · if necessary, sew a second row somewhat in from the edge

Patches on knits and jersey

Stitch: Jersey stitch No. 15 virtuosa 153 Q/No. 17 virtuosa 163 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Disguises worn or damaged areas particularly for stretchy fabrics, especially underwear

Preparation · do not cut damaged area · round off patch to retain elasticity · pin and baste to right side

Sewing · place patch over worn area · sew over edge · sew a second row inside the first if necessary · cut away damaged area

TIP

Knits · use a new needle to prevent damaging the loops

Sewing stretch fabrics · if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705 H-S) = needle slides between the fibers

Fabric stretches and waves · reduce presser foot pressure to suit the fabric

Darning/mending tears

32 Darning and mending tears with Running stitch

Stitch: Running stitch No. 4 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1

Quick mends for tears and worn areas on all types of fabric

Preparation · for tears use a fine backing fabric

Sewing · tears: sew 3–5 rows of Running stitch · worn areas: sew as many rows as necessary next to one another · overlap each row slightly over the previous one

Method

flat areas · sew forward · insert needle · turn work · sew forward again

tubular areas (trousers, sleeves) · sew first row forward · select continuous reverse sewing function · sew second row in reverse · delete function · sew next row forward again · repeat as necessary

TIP Backing for tears · instead of fine fabric, use a piece of gauze or soft interlining

Darning program

Stitch: Darning Program No. 12 virtuosa 153
Darning Program No. 14 virtuosa 163
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: darning thread
Feed-dog: up (sewing position)
Presser foot: Reverse Pattern foot No. 1
Buttonhole foot No. 3A

Quick darning of holes or worn areas

• replaces threads with the grain in all fabrics

Darning with Reverse Pattern foot No. 1

• select continuous reverse/stitch counter buttonhole selector
• insert the needle in the top left of the worn area
• sew the first vertical row
• press the quick reverse button at desired length
• continue sewing, machine stops automatically

Large areas:
The darning area can be extended by moving the work under the foot.
Clear the programme by pressing the clr/del button.

Darning with the Buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A

• insert the needle in the top left of the worn area
• sew the first vertical row
• press the securing button
  (length is programmed)
• complete the darning programme, the machine stops automatically
• the machine changes direction automatically for a darn of about 3 cm (1 1/2") in length
• the machine completes the darning programme automatically

Large areas:
The darning area can be extended by moving the work under the foot.
Clear the programme by pressing the clr/del button.

Corrections

• if the darning becomes distorted, correct with Balance

TIP

Reinforcement

• use fine fabric or interlining as a backing

Preparation

• stretch fabric into darning ring*
• prevents puckering

*The darning ring is available as special accessory

Darning manual

Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1
Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected
Thread: darning thread
Feed-dog: down (darning position)
Presser foot: Darning foot No. 9

Darning holes or worn areas

replaces both lengthways and horizontal threads in all fabrics

Preparation

• stretch fabric into darning ring*
• prevents puckering
• if possible, use the sewing table**

Sewing

• move darning ring smoothly
• work from left to right
• move without using pressure

Method

• sew first row

• turn work by 90°

• sew over the first row – not too close for a soft finish

• turn work by 90° again

• complete darning loosely and in same direction as first row

• in tubular items
  first step in a horizontal direction
  second and third steps in lengthways direction

• when you have mastered the technique
  work the rows in irregular lengths so that the ends are lost in the fabric

Important

• change direction in curves (no points)
  = prevents holes
  = prevents thread breakage
• move as if writing L or M
• do not sew in circles = these do not mimic fabric construction

• The darning ring is available as special accessory.
  ** virtuosa 153 QE optional

TIP

Thread breaks

• uneven movement of darning ring

Stitch formation is not good, thread lies on top

• ring moved too quickly

Knots on the underside

• ring moved too slowly

Index

35

Index

B Blind hem 18 Buttonhole · balance 21 · cutting open 27 · functions 21 · keyhole 24 · manual 22 · standard 23 · standard with gimp 26 · stitch counter 25 · stretch 23 · stretch with gimp 26

C Couching 19

D Darning with running stitch 32 Darning manual 34 Darning Programme 33 Decorative stitches 6 Decorative stitches combined with functions 7 Double overlock seam 12

E Edge stitching 4 Edges on knits with elastic 30 Elastic 19 Elastic, sewing on 20 Eyelet 27

F Flat joining seam 13 Freehand quilting 29

H Hand stitches/ quilting stitch 28 Hems with practical stitches 14

J Joining seam (flat ) 13

K Keyhole buttonhole 24 Knits 15

L Letters/numbers in memory 9

M Memory 8 Mending tears 30

N Numbers in memory 9

P Patching 31 Patchwork foot 28 Practical and decorative stitches in memory 8 Practical stitch seams 10

Q Quilt stitch hand 28 Quilting freehand 29

R Ribbing with overlock seam 16

S Securing stitch 3 Self-facing with honeycomb stitch 15 Sewing knits 15 Shirring elastic 19 Standard buttonhole 23 Standard buttonhole with gimp 26 Straight stitch 2 Stretch buttonhole 23 Stretch buttonhole with gimp 26 Stretch overlock seam 13 Super stretch seam 11

T Triple straight stitch seam 11

V Vari-overlock seam 12 Visible hem with Jersey stitch 14 Visible hem with Triple zig-zag stitch 14

Z Zig-zag seam 10 Zig-zag stitch 5 Zippers 17

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