Brother XR7700 owner's manual: 2 Sewing basics

2 SEWING BASICS

SEWING

Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

CAUTION

• While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.
• Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.
• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
• Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.

General sewing procedure

Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

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Selecting stitching

Using the stitch selection keys, select the desired stitch. When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected.

1 Turn on the sewing machine.

2 Press (stitch selection keys). The number of the selected stitch is displayed. Press the “+” or “–” side of to increase or reduce the number by one. Pressing on the right changes the digit on the right and pressing on the left changes the digit on the left.

► The stitch is selected.

3 Attach the presser foot.

Note

• The presser foot to be used is indicated by the letter (G, A, J, N, or R) below to the right of the stitch number.

4 If necessary, adjust the stitch length and width.

• For details on sewing with each of the utility stitches, refer to the following example.

■ [Example] Selecting stitch .

1 Press the stitch selection keys to select stitch 04. With on the right, select “4”, and with on the left, select “0”.

2 Press the “+” or “–” side of (stitch length adjustment key) to increase or reduce the stitch length.

① Stitch length adjustment key ② Short ③ Long

3 Press the “+” or “–” side of (stitch width adjustment key) to increase or reduce the stitch width.

① Stitch width adjustment key ② Narrow ③ Wide

Note

• When the stitch length or stitch width is changed from the standard setting, around or disappears from the LCD. When the stitch length or stitch width is reset back to the standard setting, reappears around or in the LCD.
• If the stitch width of the selected stitch cannot be adjusted, “--” appears to the right of in the LCD.

CAUTION

• After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
• If the stitches are bunched together, increase the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the stitches bunched together may result in the needle bending or breaking.

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SEWING BASICS

Starting to sew

1 Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with [icon: up/down arrow] (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing [icon: up/down arrow] once or twice.)

① Mark or ② Needle position button

2 Raise the presser foot lever.

① Presser foot lever

3 Place the fabric under the presser foot, pass the thread under the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

① 5 cm (2 inch)

4 While holding the end of the thread and the fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.

5 Lower the presser foot lever.

① Presser foot lever

6 On models equipped with a sewing speed controller, slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to adjust the sewing speed. Refer to “Sewing speed controller” (page 10).

① Sewing speed controller

7 Slowly press down on the foot controller. (With models equipped with [icon: start/stop] (start/stop button), if the foot controller is not connected, press [icon: start/stop] once.)

or ① Start/stop button

► The machine starts sewing.

8 Take your foot off the foot controller, or press [icon: start/stop] (start/stop button) once (if the machine was started by pressing [icon: start/stop] (start/stop button)) (for models equipped with the start/stop button). ► The machine stops sewing.

9 Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with [icon: up/down arrow] (needle position button), raise the needle by pressing [icon: up/down arrow] once or twice.)

10 Raise the presser foot lever.

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11 Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine, and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

① Thread cutter

Memo

• When the foot controller is plugged in, (start/stop button) cannot be used to start or stop sewing.
• When sewing is stopped, the needle remains lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needles stay up when sewing is stopped, refer to "Changing the needle stop position" (page 10).

Sewing reinforcement stitches

When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse stitching, pressing (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.

① Reverse stitching ② Reinforcement stitching

Memo

• Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to "Stitch settings" (page 52).

Thread tension

The thread tension will affect the quality of your stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread.

Memo

• We recommend that you do a test sample on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.

Correct tension

Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric.

① Wrong side ② Surface ③ Upper thread ④ Lower thread

Upper tension is too tight

Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.

① Wrong side ② Surface ③ Upper thread ④ Lower thread ⑤ Loops appear on surface of fabric

Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tension-control dial to a lower number.

Upper tension is too loose

Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric.

① Wrong side ② Surface ③ Upper thread ④ Lower thread ⑤ Loops appear on wrong side of fabric

Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tension-control dial to a higher number.

SEWING BASICS

USEFUL SEWING TIPS

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project.

Trial sewing

After you select a stitch, the machine automatically sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved. For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.

Changing the sewing direction

1. When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the sewing machine. Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle was raised, lower the needle either by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) or by pressing [icon] (needle position button) once (for models equipped with the needle position button).

   CAUTION

   • When using the twin needle, be sure to raise the needle before changing the sewing direction. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered, the needle may bend or break.

2. Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric. Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

3. Lower the presser foot lever and continue sewing.

Sewing curves

Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve.

When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.

Sewing thick fabrics

• If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.

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■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching Zigzag foot "J" is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level.

① Sewing direction

1 When you encounter a seam that is too thick to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot lever.

2 Press the black button on the left side of the foot. Keep the button held in and lower the presser foot.

① Black button

3 Release the button. The foot will lock in place level with the seam, allowing the fabric to feed.

• Once the trouble spot has been passed, the foot will return to its normal position.

CAUTION

● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.

Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.

① Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.

① Basting

Using a free-arm style

Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas. To change your machine to the free-arm style, lift out the flat bed attachment.

1 Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to release it.

① Flat bed attachment

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3 UTILITY STITCHES

OVERCASTING STITCHES

You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. They are also useful for sewing stretch materials.

*Rev.: Reverse
**Rfc.: Reinforcement
***Do not use reverse stitching.

1. Attach overcasting foot “G” or zigzag foot “J”.

2. Select a stitch.

   • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).

3. Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

① Guide

4. Sew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot guide.

① Needle drop point

CAUTION

• After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

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BASIC STITCHING

Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.

\begin{tabular}{|l|l|c|c|c|c|c|p{3.5cm}|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\textbf{Stitch Name}} & \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Presser Foot} & \multicolumn{4}{|c|}{\textbf{Pattern No.}} & \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\textbf{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\textbf{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Twin Needle} & \textbf{Walking Foot} & \textbf{Reverse/Reinforcement Stitching} \ \cline{5-8}\cline{9-10}\cline{11-12} \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{} & & & \textbf{70 stitches model} & \textbf{60 stitches model} & \textbf{50 stitches model} & \textbf{40 stitches model} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & & & \ \hline \multirow{2}{}{\textbf{Straight}} & Left & & J & 00 & 00 & 00 & 00 & Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. & 0.0 (0) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) & No & Yes** & Rev.* \ \cline{2-15} & Center & & J & 01 & 01 & 01 & 01 & Attaching zippers, basic stitching, and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. & – & – & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) & Yes (J) & Yes*** & Rev.* \ \hline \multicolumn{2}{|l|}{\textbf{Triple stretch stitch}} & & J & 02 & 02 & 02 & 02 & Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching & 0.0 (0) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & No & No & Rfc.** \ \hline \end{tabular}

*Rev.: Reverse **Rfc.: Reinforcement ***Do not use reverse stitching.

Basic stitching

1 Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.

2 Attach zigzag foot "J".

3 Select a stitch.

• For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 27).

4 Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.

5 Start sewing.

• For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 28).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to "Sewing reinforcement stitches" (page 29).

6 When sewing is finished, cut the thread.

• For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 28).

■ Changing the needle position

With the straight stitch (left needle position) and the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be adjusted. Pressing the "+" side of the stitch width adjustment key moves the needle to the right; pressing the "-" side of the stitch width adjustment key moves the needle to the left.

① Stitch width adjustment key ② Left needle position ③ Right needle position

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BLIND HEM STITCHING

You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing.

*Rfc.: Reinforcement

1 Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric. Fold back the fabric along the basting, and then position the fabric with the wrong side facing up.

① Wrong side of fabric
② Basting
③ Desired edge of hem
④ 5 mm (3/16 inch)

2 Attach blind hem foot “R”.

3 Select a stitch.

4 Position the fabric with the edge of the folded hem against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever. Check that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.

① Needle
② Needle drop point
③ Fold of hem
④ Wrong side of fabric
⑤ Guide

If the needle catches too much of the hem fold

If the needle catches too much of the hem fold, adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing the “+” side of the stitch width adjustment key.

① Wrong side of fabric
② Right side of fabric

If the needle does not catch the hem fold

If the needle does not catch the hem fold, adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing the “-” side of the stitch width adjustment key.

① Wrong side of fabric
② Right side of fabric

• For details on changing the stitch width, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).

5 Sew with the fold of the hem against the presser foot guide.

6 Remove the basting stitching and turn the fabric right side up.

① Wrong side of fabric
② Right side of fabric

BUTTONHOLE SEWING

Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on.

\begin{tabular}{|l|c|c|c|c|c|c|l|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \multirow{2}{}{Stitch Name} & \multirow{2}{}{Pattern} & \multirow{2}{}{Presser Foot} & \multicolumn{4}{c|}{Pattern No.} & \multirow{2}{}{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]} & \multirow{2}{}{Twin Needle} & \multirow{2}{}{Walking Foot} & \multirow{2}{}{Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching} \ \cline{4-7}\cline{9-12} & & & 70 stitches model & 60 stitches model & 50 stitches model & 40 stitches model & & Auto & Manual & Auto & Manual & & & \ \hline \multirow{7}{}{Buttonhole stitch} & & A & 29 & 29 & 29 & 25 & Horizontal buttonholes on thin and medium weight fabrics & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & No & No & Auto$^{}$ Rfc. \ \cline{2-15} & & A & 30 & 30 & 30 & 26 & Secured buttoholes for fabrics that have backings & 5.0 (3/16) & 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & No & No & Auto$^{}$ Rfc. \ \cline{2-15} & & A & 31 & 31 & 31 & 27 & Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics & 6.0 (15/64) & 3.0–6.0 (1/8–15/64) & 1.0 (1/16) & 0.5–2.0 (1/32–1/16) & No & No & Auto$^{}$ Rfc. \ \cline{2-15} & & A & 32 & 32 & 32 & 28 & Buttonholes for stretch fabrics & 6.0 (15/64) & 3.0–6.0 (1/8–15/64) & 1.5 (1/16) & 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) & No & No & Auto$^{}$ Rfc. \ \cline{2-15} & & A & 33 & 33 & 33 & 29 & Keyhole buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics & 7.0 (1/4) & 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) & 0.5 (1/32) & 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & No & No & Auto$^{}$ Rfc. \ \cline{2-15} & & A & 34 & 34 & – & – & Keyhole buttonholes for medium weight and thick fabrics & 7.0 (1/4) & 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) & 0.5 (1/32) & 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & No & No & Auto$^{}$ Rfc. \ \cline{2-15} & & A & 35 & 35 & – & – & Keyhole buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics & 7.0 (1/4) & 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) & 0.5 (1/32) & 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) & No & No & Auto$^{*}$ Rfc. \ \hline Zigzag stitch (for quilting) & & J & 40 & 40 & – & – & Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching, button sewing & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) & No & Yes & Rfc.$^{**}$ \ \hline \end{tabular}

$^{*}$Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement $^{**}$Rfc.: Reinforcement The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

① Reinforcement stitching

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UTILITY STITCHES

The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.

① Button guide plate ② Presser foot scale ③ Pin ④ Marks on buttonhole foot ⑤ 5 mm (3/16 inch)

1 Use chalk to mark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric.

① Marks on fabric

2 Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole foot “A”, and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.

► The size of the buttonhole is set.

■ If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

① Presser foot scale ② Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of button) ③ 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.

① 10 mm (3/8 inch) ② 15 mm (9/16 inch)

3 Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

4 Select a stitch.

5 Position the fabric with the front end of the buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever. Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.

① Mark on fabric ② Red marks on buttonhole foot

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• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size.

① Do not reduce the gap.

6 Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.

① Buttonhole lever

The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

① Buttonhole lever ② Bracket

7 Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand, and then start sewing.

► Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

8 Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric, and cut the thread.

9 Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.

10 Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut, and then use a seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole.

① Seam ripper ② Pin

For keyhole buttonholes, use a commercial eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.

① Eyelet punch

• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.

CAUTION

● When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting direction, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips.

Memo

● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

UTILITY STITCHES

Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics

When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread.

1. Hook the gimp thread onto the part of buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.

2. Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
3. Select a stitch or .
4. Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the gimp thread.
5. Lower the presser foot lever and the buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
6. When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp thread to remove any slack.

7. Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it.
8. With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the gimp thread remaining at the top end of the buttonhole. Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.

Button sewing

Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.

1. Measure the distance between the holes in the button to be attached.

2. Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the feed dog position lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the right as seen from the front of the machine).

① Feed dog position lever (as seen from the rear of the machine)

The feed dogs are lowered.

3. Attach presser foot “M”.

① Button fitting foot “M”

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4 Place a button between the presser foot and the fabric.

• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way.

5 Select a stitch . (With models not provided with stitch , select stitch .)

6 Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as the distance between the holes in the button.

7 Set the stitch length to the shortest setting by pressing the stitch length adjustment key.

8 Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle correctly goes into the two holes of the button. Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes.

CAUTION

• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

9 Start sewing.

• After sewing for about 10 seconds at low speed, press (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) to sew reinforcement stitches.

10 Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread. Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.

11 When you are finished attaching the button, slide the feed dog position lever to (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.

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UTILITY STITCHES

ZIPPER INSERTION

You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left side of the needle. When sewing the right side of the zipper, attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. When sewing the left side of the zipper, attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot.

\begin{tabular}{|l|c|c|c|c|c|c|l|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Presser Foot} & \multicolumn{4}{|c|}{\textbf{Pattern No.}} & \textbf{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\textbf{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\textbf{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Twin Needle} & \textbf{Walking Foot} & \textbf{Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching} \ \cline{4-7}\cline{9-12} & & & \textbf{70 stitches model} & \textbf{60 stitches model} & \textbf{50 stitches model} & \textbf{40 stitches model} & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & & & \ \hline Straight stitch (center) & & I & 01 & 01 & 01 & 01 & Attaching zippers, basic stitching, and sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. & – & – & 2.5 (3/32) & 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) & Yes (J) & Yes** & Rev.* \ \hline \end{tabular}

*Rev.: Reverse **Do not use reverse stitching.

① Zipper foot ② Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper ③ Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper

1 Select stitch .

2 Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the shank.

3 Fold the edge of the material 2 cm (3/4 inch) and place the zipper under the folded section. Lower the needle into the notch located either on the left or right side of the zipper foot.

CAUTION

• Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the needle does not hit the presser foot before you start sewing. If you choose a different stitch, the needle will hit the presser foot and break the needle. You may also be injured.

4 Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the top on both sides. The needle should be positioned on the zipper side of the foot for best results.

5 To sew the opposite side of the zipper, release the foot by pressing the button located at the back of the presser foot, fit the zipper foot on the other side of the zipper and continue sewing using the other side notch.

CAUTION

• Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper during sewing. If the needle hits the zipper, the needle may break and you may be injured.

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SEWING STRETCH FABRICS AND ELASTIC TAPE

Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.

\begin{tabular}{|l|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \multirow{2}{}{Stitch Name} & \multirow{2}{}{Pattern} & \multirow{2}{}{Presser Foot} & \multicolumn{4}{c|}{Pattern No.} & \multirow{2}{}{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]} & \multicolumn{2}{c|}{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]} & \multirow{2}{}{Twin Needle} & \multirow{2}{}{Walking Foot} & \multirow{2}{}{Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching} \ \cline{4-7}\cline{9-12} & & & 70 stitches model & 60 stitches model & 50 stitches model & 40 stitches model & & Auto & Manual & Auto & Manual & & & \ \hline Stretch stitch & & J & 03 & 03 & 03 & 03 & Sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching & 1,0 (1/16) & 1,0–3,0 (1/16–1/8) & 2,5 (3/32) & 1,0–4,0 (1/16–3/16) & Yes (J) & No & Rfc. \ \hline 3-point zigzag stitch & & J & 05 & 05 & 05 & 05 & Overcasting on medium weight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc. & 5,0 (3/16) & 1,5–7,0 (1/16–1/4) & 1,0 (1/16) & 0,2–4,0 (1/64–3/16) & Yes (J) & No & Rfc.* \ \hline \end{tabular}

*Rfc.: Reinforcement

Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.

Stretch stitching

1 Attach zigzag foot "J".

2 Select stitch .

3 Sew the fabric without stretching it.

Elastic attaching

When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

1 Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the fabric. Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.

① Elastic tape ② Pin

2 Attach zigzag foot "J".

3 Select stitch .

4 Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric. While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.

CAUTION

• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.

41

UTILITY STITCHES

APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING

The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.

\begin{tabular}{|l|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \multirow{2}{}{Stitch Name} & \multirow{2}{}{Pattern} & \multirow{2}{}{Presser Foot} & \multicolumn{4}{|c|}{Pattern No.} & \multirow{2}{}{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]} & \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]} & \multirow{2}{}{Twin Needle} & \multirow{2}{}{Walking Foot} & \multirow{2}{}{Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching} \ \cline{4-7}\cline{9-12} & & & 70 stitches model & 60 stitches model & 50 stitches model & 40 stitches model & & Auto & Manual & Auto & Manual & & & \ \hline Zigzag stitch & & J & 04 & 04 & 04 & 04 & Overcasting and attaching appliqués & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) & Yes (J) & Yes** & Rfc. \ \hline Zigzag stitch (for quilting) & & J & 40 & 40 & - & - & Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching & 3.5 (1/8) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.4 (1/16) & 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) & No & Yes & Rfc.* \ \hline Appliqué stitch & & J & 11 & 11 & 11 & 11 & Appliqué stitching & 3.5 (1/8) & 2.5–5.0 (3/32–3/16) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.6–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & Yes (J) & No & Rfc.* \ \hline \multirow{2}{}{Appliqué stitch (for quilting)} & & J & 41 & 41 & - & - & Attaching appliqués and binding & 1.5 (1/16) & 0.5–5.0 (1/32–3/16) & 1.2 (1/16) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & No & No & Rfc. \ \cline{2-14} & & J & 42 & 42 & - & - & Attaching appliqués and binding & 1.5 (1/16) & 0.5–5.0 (1/32–3/16) & 1.2 (1/16) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & No & No & Rfc.* \ \hline \multirow{2}{}{Piecing straight stitch} & & J & 37 & 37 & - & - & Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5mm from the right edge of the presser foot) & 5.5 (7/32) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.6 (1/16) & 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) & No & Yes & Rfc. \ \cline{2-14} & & J & 38 & 38 & - & - & Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5mm from the right edge of the presser foot) & 1.5 (1/16) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.6 (1/16) & 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) & No & Yes & Rfc.* \ \hline \multirow{3}{}{Joining stitch} & & J & 14 & 14 & 14 & 14 & Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching & 4.0 (3/16) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.2 (1/16) & 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) & Yes (J) & No & Rfc. \ \cline{2-14} & & J & 15 & 15 & 15 & 15 & Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing overcasting on both pieces of fabrics, such as with tricot & 5.0 (3/16) & 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & Yes (J) & No & Rfc.* \ \cline{2-14} & & J & 16 & 16 & 16 & 16 & Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching & 5.0 (3/16) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 1.2 (1/16) & 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) & Yes (J) & No & Rfc.* \ \hline Hand-look quilting & & J & 39 & 39 & 35 & 31 & Straight stitch quilting that looks hand-sewn & 0.0 (0) & 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & No & No & Rfc.* \ \hline Quilting stippling & & J & 43 & 43 & - & - & Quilting background stitching (stippling) & 7.0 (1/4) & 1.0–7.0 (1/16–1/4) & 1.6 (1/16) & 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) & No & No & Rfc.* \ \hline \end{tabular}

*Rfc.: Reinforcement **Do not use reverse stitching.

Appliqués

You can create an appliqué by cutting a different piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a decoration.

1. Baste the cut design to the fabric.
2. Attach zigzag foot "J".
3. Select stitch .

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4 Carefully sew around the edge of the design.

5 Cut away any fabric that is left outside the stitching.

6 Remove the basting, if necessary.

Memo

• Make reinforcing straight stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching.

CAUTION

• Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin during sewing, as the needle can break. You may also be injured.

Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching

1 Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and place it over the lower piece.

2 Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the pattern spans both pieces.

Piecing

Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.

1 Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the fabric that you wish to piece together.

2 Attach zigzag foot “J”.

3 Select stitch [icon] or [icon].

4 Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric.

■ For a seam allowance on the right side Align the right side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch [icon].

① 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

■ For a seam allowance on the left side Align the left side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch [icon].

① 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

Memo

• To change the width of the seam allowance (the needle position), adjust the stitch width. For details, refer to “Changing the needle position” (page 33).

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UTILITY STITCHES

Quilting

Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called "quilting". Quilts can easily be sewn using the optional walking foot and the optional quilting guide.

Note

• Only use the walking foot with straight or zigzag stitches. Do not use other patterns. Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the walking foot.

1. Baste the fabric to be quilted.

2. Remove the presser foot and the presser foot holder.

   • For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 25).

3. Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot onto the needle clamp screw, lower the presser foot lever, and then use the presser foot holder screw to attach the walking foot to the presser bar.

① Connecting fork ② Needle clamp screw ③ Presser foot holder screw

CAUTION

• Use the screwdriver to tighten the screw securely. If the screw is loose, the needle may strike the presser foot and cause injury.
• Be sure to turn the handwheel toward the front of the machine to check that the needle does not strike the presser foot. If the needle strikes the presser foot, injury may result.

4. Select stitch [straight stitch icon]P, [straight stitch icon]P or [zigzag icon]Q.

5. Place one hand on each side of the presser foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while sewing.

Note

• When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium.

Using the optional quilting guide Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced.

1. Insert the stem of the quilter into the hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser foot holder. □ Walking foot

☐ Presser foot holder

2. Adjust the stem of the quilter so that the quilt guide aligns with the seam that has already been sewn.

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Free-motion quilting

With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting.

1 Remove the presser foot and the presser foot holder.

• For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 25).

2 Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side of the presser bar. The pin on the quilting foot should be positioned over the needle clamp screw.

① Pin on quilting foot ② Presser foot holder screw ③ Needle clamp screw

3 Hold the quilting foot in place with your right hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

① Presser foot holder screw

CAUTION

• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

4 Slide the feed dog position lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to ▮▮ (to the right as seen from the front of the machine).

① Feed dog position lever (as seen from the rear of the machine)

► The feed dogs are lowered.

5 Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a stitch.

6 Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, then move the fabric to follow the pattern. Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and end of sewing.

① Pattern

7 After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog position lever to ▮▮ (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.

• Normally, the feed dog position lever is positioned at ▮▮.

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REINFORCEMENT STITCHING

Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.

\begin{tabular}{|l|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|c|} \hline \textbf{Stitch Name} & \textbf{Pattern} & \textbf{Presser Foot} & \multicolumn{4}{|c|}{\textbf{Pattern No.}} & \textbf{Application} & \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\textbf{Stitch Width [mm (inch.)]}} & \multicolumn{2}{|c|}{\textbf{Stitch Length [mm (inch.)]}} & \textbf{Twin Needle} & \textbf{Walking Foot} & \textbf{Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching} \ \cline{4-7}\cline{9-12} & & & \textbf{70 stitches model} & \textbf{60 stitches model} & \textbf{50 stitches model} & \textbf{40 stitches model} & & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & \textbf{Auto} & \textbf{Manual} & & & \ \hline Triple stretch stitch & J & 02 & 02 & 02 & 02 & Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching & 0.0 (0) & 0.0-7.0 (0-1/4) & 2.5 (3/32) & 1.5-4.0 (1/16-3/16) & No & No & Rfc.* \ \hline Bar tack stitch & A & 36 & 36 & 34 & 30 & Reinforcing openings and areas where the seam easily comes loose & 2.0 (1/16) & 1.0-3.0 (1/16-1/8) & 0.4 (1/64) & 0.3-1.0 (1/64-1/16) & No & No & Auto** Rfc. \ \hline \end{tabular}

*Rfc.: Reinforcement **Auto Rfc.: Automatic Reinforcement

Triple stretch stitching

Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes and inseams.

1. Attach zigzag foot "J".
2. Select stitch .
3. Start sewing.
   • For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 28).

Bar tack stitching

Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to strain, such as pocket corners and openings. As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at pocket corners is described below.

1. Determine the desired length of the bar tack. Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot "A" to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

① Presser foot scale ② Length of bar tack ③ 5 mm (3/16 inch)

• A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) can be sewn.

2. Attach buttonhole foot "A".

3 Select stitch [icon of a buttonhole stitch].

4 Position the fabric so that the opening of the pocket faces toward you, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening.

① 2 mm (1/16 inch) Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.

• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the bar tack will not be sewn with the correct size.

① Do not reduce the gap.

5 Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.

① Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.

① Buttonhole lever ② Bracket

6 Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand, and then start sewing.

► Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

7 Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric, and cut the thread.

8 Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.

Memo

• If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).

DECORATIVE STITCHING

Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.

*Rfc.: Reinforcement 48

Fagoting

Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used.

1 Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric along their seams.

2 Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by about 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.

① Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer ② Basting stitching ③ 4 mm (3/16 inch)

3 Attach zigzag foot “J”.

4 Select stitch or .

5 Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).

6 Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned along the center of the two pieces of fabric.

7 After sewing is finished, remove the paper.

Scallop stitching

The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs.

1 Attach monogramming foot “N”.

2 Select stitch .

3 Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric.

• For better results, apply spray starch onto the fabric and press with a hot iron before it is sewn.

4 Trim along the stitches.

• Be careful not to cut the stitches.

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UTILITY STITCHES

Smocking

The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric.

1 Attach zigzag foot “J”.

2 Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen the thread tension.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27) and “Thread tension” (page 29).

3 Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm (3/8 inch).

① 1 cm (3/8 inch)

• Do not sew reverse/reinforcement stitches or cut the thread.

4 Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers. Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

5 Select stitch or .

6 Stitch between the straight stitches.

7 Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.

Shell tuck stitching

The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.

1 Fold the fabric along the bias.

2 Attach zigzag foot “J”.

3 Select stitch , and then increase the thread tension.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 27).

4 Sew while making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the fabric.

① Needle drop point

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5 Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks down to one side.

Joining

Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt.

1 Attach zigzag foot “J”.

2 Sew together the right sides of the two pieces of fabric, and then open up the seam allowances.

① Wrong side of fabric ② 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance ③ Straight stitch

3 Select stitch , or .

4 Turn the fabric over so that the right side faces up, and then sew over the seam with the center of the presser foot aligned with the seam.

① Right side of fabric

Heirloom stitching

When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics.

CAUTION

• The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged. Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back. For details, refer to “Upper threading” (page 16).

1 Insert the wing needle.

• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
• For details on inserting a needle, refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 21).

2 Attach monogramming foot “N”.

3 Select stitch , , , or .

CAUTION

• Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
• After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

4 Start sewing.

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