What you're describing sounds like glaze dotting done over a fired glaze, then refired. It's a real technique and pretty forgiving once you know a few things. The way it usually works: you make or buy a glaze that's a different color from your base, fire the piece to full temp with just the base glaze, then come back and dab dots of the second glaze straight onto the fired surface and refire the whole thing. The dots melt slightly and round up into little beads, exactly like you're seeing on your aunt's dish. If the dots are applied thick, almost like toothpaste, they don't flatten out much and you get that raised texture. The thin dark eye outlines sound like a different approach, probably an underglaze or oxide wash done before the main glaze firing, which is why they sit flat while the spots sit proud.
The other possibility is the majolica method, where you paint colored glazes on top of an unfired base glaze and fire everything once. On majolica pieces the colors do seem to float on the surface. But if the spots catch the light like actual beads rather than flat pools of color, I'd put my money on the dot-and-refire route.
For your planter at cone 6, the important bit is that the dot glaze and your base glaze should be reasonably compatible, meaning similar expansion. If they're way off you can get crazing around each dot or the dots can flake off the edges later. If you're mixing your own, stick with glazes from the same recipe family. If you're buying commercial, use the same brand's line and you're usually fine.
Practical tips: scuff or clean the fired glaze surface before dotting so the new glaze bonds well, apply dots with a squeeze bottle or a brush for even beads, and refire at a temp where that dot glaze will actually melt. If a test dot comes out flat instead of beaded, your glaze is too runny and needs a touch more clay or silica. Do a couple test tiles before committing to the planter. One afternoon of testing saves you a lot of heartache on the real piece.