electric kiln firing questions

Hi all,

When I was first setting up this kiln I got a lot of great advice from this group. I've been set up for a few months now and have completed 2 firing cycles (bisque/glaze) however, I still qualify as a complete newbie!

The kiln is an electric cylindrical kiln, 7 cu. ft. I have some firing schedules for bisque and glaze that were passed on to me. I try to follow them as best as possible as my kiln (3 zones) has the old lo-med-hi switches which don't offer a lot of control. I installed a pyrometer which I rely on heavily to monitor rates of change. I also use the kiln sitter and witness cones.

My confusion stems mainly from the relationship between the cones/kiln sitter/ and pyrometer. For example, when bisque firing to cone 04, the chart states 1940 F at a certain rate for the regular cone. My kiln sitter is shutting off at 1979 - 1984 which jibes with my witness cones pretty well. At the point my kiln sitter goes off I check the pyrometer, and adjust the controls to hold that temperature for 20 minutes. Is this a good idea? Should I also be holding the temperature when glaze firing for 20 min? Doesn't holding a temperature just equate to over firing?

More questions: I was told to shut down or start holding when a cone is at

3 o'clock, the orton book says 6 o'clock.

I have a lot of ware that would fit with 4inch posts but they don't seem tall enough in terms of having enough elements showing between the shelves. Do you guys use 4" posts ever?

The height of the kiln sitter tube and my thermocouple tube constantly conspire to interfere with my post height / shelf placement etc. On my first shelf I cannot use 6" posts because the shelf will be at the exact height of the kiln sitter, so I have to use 8" posts which wastes a lot of vertical room. 4" posts on the bottom level gave witness cones that were only at 2 o'clock when the center shelf ones were at 6 o'clock. Can I just ignore the warning about having a shelf within 1" of the kiln sitter?

I built my ventilation system myself and have never been sure my downdraft vent is pulling the right amount of air out of the kiln. It's a 4" duct cap with a 1.25" sq. hole cut into the face of the duct cap. The duct cap is then screwed to the kiln side with a 1/4" standoff distance, centered over a

3/8" dia. hole drilled through into the kiln. If I hold a match to the sighte hole on the opposite side of the kiln with the lid closed it pulls the flame in for sure, until the kiln gets hot. My lid is also warped a bit, wouldn't this allow enough air to enter the kiln so I could keep the sight hole closed up? (at the moment I use the site hole as the air intake for the downdraft vent.)

If you read this far, Thanks!

Kandor

Reply to
Zander
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Kandor,

The relationship between cones and temperature is very vague at best. The cone is made of ceramic material, and reacts according to the same factors which mature your work - temperature, time, environment, etc. The pyrometer only measures ONE of those factors - temperature. You are quite correct in using the pyrometer as a guide to temp rise only, and the cones as proof of maturity.

It doesn't matter how accurate a pyrometer is, it will almost NEVER agree with a cone. I manufacture a digital pyrometer in Australia, and I often have complaints from customers about this.

You are also correct that soaking equates with additional firing - I think a

20 minute soak may be a bit excessive - 10 minutes would probably be OK for a kiln that size to equalise - most people don't even bother with a soak as it is difficult to handle with your type of control system.

I would suggest that you start soaking when the cone is at 3-4 o'clock, and shut down when it reaches 6 o'clock. That way you avoid overfiring. The firing is complete when the cone reaches 6 o'clock as specified by Orton.

You can't really overfire bisqueware by soaking, but glazeware might be affected. How do the glazes look? That is the best indicator of successful glaze firings - do the colours look OK?

In reality you can use 1" posts - you should get some of these. Get plenty - they are excellent to have as you can make any size post from 1" to

11" by stacking. The fact that the ware is not exposed to an element does not usually cause problems, especially since you are using a downdraft exhaust fan - this causes a good flow of heat through the kiln. It helps to have all the half shelves at different levels as well, so there is a good flow - don't have all the half shelves completely closed off at the same level, which creates many "mini kilns" within the kiln. I would definitely keep shelves and ware 1" away from the kiln sitter, as it will affect the cone.

Most people drill 1/4" holes in the lid of the kiln to allow air flow for the vent fan - in your kiln maybe 6 - 8 holes would be enough. Just space them evenly around the diameter of the lid - and leave all peep holes closed. If the lid has a large gap or warps during firing, use some ceramic fibre sheet to seal the lid.

My website at

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has some information on kilns and firing which may be of interest to you.

Hope this answers all your questions

Dave

Reply to
Coggo

Thanks Coggo!

All of your answers are most appreciated. I only have 3 full shelves and 2 half shelves at the moment, maybe investing in some more half shelves is in order. Regarding 1" posts: I heard or read somewhere that 2 elements minimum between shelves is a good idea, but if 1" posts between shelves can be used that would great, even though that would be rare, in reality 3" posts would probably be average.

For some reason I'm adverse to drilling holes in my lid... not to sure why? So far I just leave my peep hole open at first (about halfway) then close it when it gets hotter.

I'm looking at a bartlett v6-cf controller - any experience with this unit?

Thanks for the web link!

Reply to
Zander

Zander,

Glad to help.

I can understand having one element showing between shelves for direct radiation, but not two - seems a bit over the top. However, since you are venting, convection tends to replace radiation as the main method of heat transmission anyway.

You will find half shelves are far more useful than full shelves, and much easier to handle as well!

Most kiln manufacturers drill holes in their lids for kiln venting, and Orton recommend it for installing their kiln vent. Have a look at

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site
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contains a lot of good stuff if you haven't browsed around there before. Sorry, I have no experience with that controller at all in Australia. You might like to contact my good friend Tony Rodriguez, a kiln technician in San Antonio, at GSM_ENT (uppercase 2) msn.com - he may have some direct experience with it.

Regards

Dave

Reply to
Coggo

Have just looked at your website - thanks for so much useful information, I have recently acquired an electric kiln and none of the books or manuals I've read are as straightforward and helpful as your site - THANKS!!

Deborah

Reply to
sarah

Glad you found it useful

Dave

Reply to
Coggo

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