Rolled edge won't cooperate

M. MacDonald 22 years ago

Project is a "thick" fleece jacket with zippers in the side pockets. Instructions say to "Roll the edge of the seam slightly towards the zipper and sew closely to the zipper." (ed. To keep the seam from being seen on the outside of the garment).

Okay. I pushed the stabilized fleece (thinner than the outer shell) pocket lining through the pocket opening (slit) and form the edge seam around the pocket opening where the zipper will go, but how do I get the "slightly rolled edge to stay in place near the zipper?"

I tried hand basting (ugh!) but it wants to still roll the edge outwards "away" from the zipper where the hem is seen on the outside of the garment. Besides, whenever I hand baste a zipper in place it is always crooked when I flip the garment over and see it from the outside. Ironing seem to be burning the fleece even though I cover it with a pressing cloth.

There must be a trick to keep the rolled edge from moving to attach the zipper for machine sewing? Tia.

Mack

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Penny S 22 years ago

M. MacDonald scrawled in bright red lipstick:

Let me get this straight: you used a piece of stabilizer as a facing for a zipper opening? Is that correct? If this is the case, try grading the seam, and then understiching it like you would any facing. Or, hand roll it and hold it in place with your fingers as you top/edge stitch the zipper in.

What pattern are you using?

Penny S

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B. Peg 22 years ago

zipper for machine sewing?

Try using your "stitch-in-the-ditch" foot (or buy one, they're handy!) and secure the seam itself to the zipper tape after you initially glue the zipper into position with Sullivan's "Glue Pins" (I got mine at Hancock's Fabrics). You may be able to "stitch-in-the-ditch" (i.e. seam) through the pocket layer and the seam's allowance. Avoid stitching through the front at this point. Also, use some water souble thread to do this or this "modified basting stitch" may be too close to the zipper teeth. You then can topstitch with your construction thread through all the layers without the seam rolling up. The water soluble thread can be washed out along with "Glue Pins" glue and you should have enough clearance for the zipper travel.

Good luck.

BP~

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